Parking Brakes not working after brake caliper change

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Benjibabs, Dec 10, 2024.

  1. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    It's normal for them to do that. They will not get that far out anyway.
    When they're relaxed, that is their normal position. They will only move out as
    the pads and rotors wear. But only a little.

     
  2. Benjibabs

    Benjibabs Junior Member

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    So I pulled out and cleaned the pins about 4 times and there was improvement. The pins slide freely; however, the movement is small - maybe about 1cm. The picture I’ve in my head is of the new one I have installed in the car now. When the pin is pushed in, the boot compresses about an inch and then bounces back to its normal size. Btw, I tried the old boots (that still look newish)and it’s the same. Also, I let air in by opening the boot a bit and still have the same issue. I’ll probably just use the new brackets with the Oem calipers.
     
  3. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    See post #21.

    Us the NEW parts!

     
  4. johnHRP

    johnHRP Active Member

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    As long as the pins at the right position (one of them has a plastic ring) and the seals are not torn, they will work well. Too much grease can cause the pins not returning to relax (tight) position and cause brake pads rubbing. We do not need much grease, just enough to coat the whole surface and no grease trapped at the tip of the pin.
     
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  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The slide pins and their boots don't have to do anything different from what you're seeing them do. It's natural for the rubber to suck in when you artificially pull on the pin: you're drawing a vacuum in there because there is a good seal between the pin, boot, and bracket, and that's the way you want it. If the boot doesn't suck in when you do that, it's making a lousy seal.

    Keep in mind that normal use doesn't move those pins more than a third of a mm at a time. Tiny motions.

    By "the same issue", do you mean there's still something off with the parking brake? Or just that you don't like seeing the boot suck in?

    You can fix that by adjusting your expectation so that the sight of a boot sucking in is beautiful.
     
  6. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    The only way to tell for sure is to check the pins on a regular basis. If you can move the pins by hand after pulling the caliper than they typically don't need any other attention. If they need a wrench or pliers to get them started moving, it's best to pull, clean and grease again. If any of your pins have rubber bushing missing, be sure to check the pin holes for bushing that have worked there way off the pins and are at the bottom of the pin holes.

    Here's another brake job tube
    youtu.be/mhWVYmXp_fA
     
    #26 vvillovv, Dec 29, 2024 at 2:04 PM
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2024 at 2:14 PM
  7. johnHRP

    johnHRP Active Member

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    I agree, I also noticed air sealed behaviour when I installed mine. The old front brake were badly corroded and the inner pad wear 50% faster than the outer. Since, I replaced the pads and disc at the same time with Zimmermann coated disc, it works much better, 30% more braking force during TÜV (MOT) test compared to the old brake disc/pads.
     

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  8. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Many many moons ago like in 1981 79 something like that I didn't realize the boots were replaceable or at that time in the grand scheme of things you had to buy the bracket assembly the whole caliper assembly something that made it prohibitively silly so I used to just trim the messed up boots flush with the bracket clean up the pin with a rotating equal to a metal brush on the end of a drill till they were shiny metal cleaned them off with Stoddard solution grease them up and slide them right back into service with no boots because I just trimmed off the messed up what's left of them some of those cars are still on the road driving today believe it or not right in the town I still live in an old drunk drives one or two of my old cars that I gave him like 18 years ago and he's still driving them has had no issues with them either and they look like regular old Corollas You can't tell anything about any of it just looks like an old Corolla all the same color and no dents and all that. The caliper still slide like they're supposed to and he's put in like three or four sets of pads since he's had the car
     
  9. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yeah here in the southeast United States of 2009 with factory original brakes right here at the house The brakes still look My eyeball inspection in very nice shape like a regular car's 70,000 mi brake check up if you will then if you look closer at the pads you'll notice that they're almost time and you should go ahead and be rounding up a set of pads at this time here where I am usually I just replace pads rotors re-grease pins any boots if needed which in the southeast is almost never and that's that and then if I'm lucky enough and I'm going to be doing struts and front wheel bearings then the whole front end can be apart for all these antics just one time and that's a nice thing half a day and it's all back together and everything up there is new but not going to have to be messed with while I head to 666
     
  10. Benjibabs

    Benjibabs Junior Member

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    Thanks for all the info, guys. I decided to leave the pins as they are—they move freely and bounce back a few millimeters when pressed.

    I had a couple of hours today to work on the car. I started by observing the aftermarket caliper while pressing and releasing the parking brake. The spring on the parking brake lever attached to the cylinder stretched and returned in response to the parking brake operation. However, the piston did not move, and the wheel remained free to rotate at all times.

    I removed the aftermarket caliper and installed the rebuilt OEM one. The parking brake immediately came back to life. The one side I worked on was able to hold the car in place, even when I lightly pressed the gas pedal. I'll replace the other side tomorrow. If I have time, I'll pull back the piston dust boot on the aftermarket caliper to inspect the cylinder. My guess is that there won't be any parking brake mechanism inside the cylinder!

    When I operated the parking brake lever on the aftermarket caliper by hand, it had no resistance, unlike the OEM caliper. It felt like the lever was only attached to the spring. I'm shipping the aftermarket caliper back to the seller to get my money refunded.
     
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  11. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Please do have time! And please take pictures!

    Or maybe a disassembly video (so they'll have less chance to say you just opened it up and took the mechanism out).
     
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  12. Benjibabs

    Benjibabs Junior Member

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    Unfortunately, I did not have time to mess with the after market caliper. The bleeder screw that came with it is longer than the OEM's and totally unusable; this is enough reason to return them. The second picture shows how far the screw would go into the cylinder! I used the OEM bleeder screw with the after market. I barely had time to replace the second rear caliper yesterday night. The parking brake worked immediately on that side as well. I've had it with the aftermarket calipers. I need them gone like yesterday and my money back. As soon as I had them replaced, I initiated a return.

    Thanks to everyone for helping out with this issue. Well appreciated! :)

    IMG_8907.JPG IMG_8908.JPG
     
  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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  14. Benjibabs

    Benjibabs Junior Member

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    You're right! I don't even know what I'm saying/typing any more, but I know I'm no more going the aftermarket crap after this one.
    Thanks again!
     
  15. johnHRP

    johnHRP Active Member

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    Aftermarket Brake disc and pads are fine but for pads, Autozone and Advance gives liftime warranty. Autozone is the best because it only needs a phone number and national wide system.
    Just don't buy anything from eBay or Amazon from unknown suppliers.
    Rockauto, Amayama, AA1, Toyota dealership in eBay, Autodoc are good. Especielly for waterpump, sparkplugs, compressor, etc.
     
  16. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    rock auto's stuff, like others, have really gone down hill. Really crappy chinese crap.
    Someone had several calipers on their bench and just grabbed whatever was closest.

    Though it could cost more, somethings are just better, and safer, to get oem.
    Hard to go wrong with something right from a dealer that was designed for a specific vehicle.

    I'm glad you got everything back together and working.

     
  17. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yeah this is kind of really funny The industry is really taking a big dump in the last I don't know 15 or so years I never had problems with calipers personally I've never had any knock on whatever. But reading the horror stories here seals mounted backwards and calipers not returning and oh my God never seen any of this I hope I never have to just because that stuff is supposed to work right out of the box off the shelf whatever it is I mean calipers used to not get stuck or have any problems except when moisture was sucked up by the spongy brake fluid Dot 3 as we know it stuff sucked up water like it was a sponge from the ocean and that would cause seizures and problems and all of that but parking brakes and mechanical pieces missing out of rebuilt calipers and all this and that holy Christ I don't think I've had any of this going on with A1 cardone but I'm not saying they don't have these issues I haven't had any problems with most of their stuff including calipers and brake parts. Thank gawd
     
  18. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Just goes to show like the Porsche guy said, "I am adamant about getting the proper caliper on your car. There’s a good chance those are the calipers you have on your car" ... the factory ones, maybe with new rubber bits and hardware if needed.