Oil Filter Remover

Shoot me a private message and we can make it happen.

 

The number is on the page I sent:
Part Number: W54076
Alternate Part Number: AZ5010

I guess some people at autozone don't know how to read....
The above number IS for TOYOTA.....

 

Triparadox, Please know that for me, the tightness was always different when trying to remove it. Sometimes it took all my strength using a breaker bar, others, regular rachet with gentle tapping with a hammer. I'm one of those who converted to the Spin-On kit. Glad I did.

 

I have the Toyota tool/socket and I can confirm it goes nowhere near the clip. The ones that do manipulate the clip are aftermarket.

Here's the one I have:

https://toyota.service-solutions.com/en-US/Pages/ItemDetail.aspx?SKU=09228-06500-02A

They even put a real life image of the thing.

I have two canister cars in the household, the '12 Prius v, and a '14 iQ. I use the exact same tool on both. The iQ does not have a clip. The Prius v does. The iQ's cap is metal, the Prius v's is some sort of plastic. Now if the clip was designed to prevent unscrewing, don't you think they'd also install one in the iQ? I still believe it is there in case of catastrophic thread failure, to prevent the cap from shooting straight out.

moto g(7) power ?

 

Looks very similar to the Honda socket. One advantage: it has a cut-out, helps for prying the socket off if it's a little jammed.

 

Yes.

And I'd like to throw out there that I have no problems at all with the original filter housing cap, that little clip, etc. I find oil changes on my Prius to be extremely easy, and find that the oil filter housing, along with the special tool I have make it very predictable. I've done 3 oil changes on this car now.

Of course other people have problems, as reported here, but I wanted to speak up for the silent (perhaps) majority.

Some comments on it:

That little clip

• Yes, manual says not to think about it during an oil change.
• Mine has never been messed with (bent, removed and reinstalled, etc.) as far as I can tell. Previous oil changes were all done at the Toyota dealer. And mine sits tightly, without wiggling in the oil filter housing cap. Vs., for example, some youtube videos that show it wiggling and not held securely.
• Last oil change a month or so ago, I looked very carefully at the clip's location, considering interference with a tool, efficacy in holding the filter cap from unscrewing itself, etc. Concluded that it does not interfere at all with a tool, and that it will have a slight benefit in preventing the cap from walking off the housing. Pics below.

Oil filter tool

• I don't know what exact tool real Toyota mechanics use, but I believe a deeper tool that has notches that lock into the 4 tabs (3 on one side, one on the other) on the cap is hugely important. Not saying that you could not do it with a strong hand, a strap wrench, or a tool that just grips the 14 flutes at the top. But having a tool that grips the top, and then also goes down to engage the tabs makes it rock solid.
• The specified Toyota tool may indeed now point to a top-only 14 fluter, and yes that may work, but I think that's inferior.
• When I got ready for my first OC, I bought a tool off eBay which looked right, made of cast aluminum, with the 14x flutes and notches for the tabs. I found it to be poorly fitting and ended spending close to an hour customizing it using my Dremel tool until it fit perfectly. I believe the main problem is that most people don't care how well it fits, so eBay still sells an ill-fitting tool. Due to the casting process, there is an angle where the sides that grip the flutes are tighter the deeper it goes, which is not good. I think I measured a diameter that was about a full mm smaller at the bottom of the tool vs. the top. An even fit top to bottom fits the cap best (cap diameter is constant top to bottom), and what I got after the sanding / tuning of my tool.
• After tuning up the fit, the tool fits on perfectly snugly. Will sit on there without motion or falling off, and is easily removable by hand.
• With this tool the way it is, I expect that the only thing that would stop the filter cap from coming off is if something were stuck, in which case the filter cap would disintegrate before the cap would come out of place.
• And of course doing it yourself, you can be careful about oiling the o-ring, screwing it on until it bottoms out and using a torque wrench at 25 Nm vs. using Jiffy Lube methods.
• I can definitely believe that if I did not have a perfectly fitting tool, that I would be similarly frustrated as so many others report on here.

 

For it to bend that stifferer that much, it must be really slipping on the 14 flutes above. My 2 cents, all that extra extension of the cap, custom notches at the stiffeners, is cargo cult. IIRC correctly the Toyota tool doesn't have it. Neither does the comparable Honda tool (which I use). The latter is heavy gauge stamped steel, no problems.

 

In post #26 I linked the website of the Toyota dealers' official "tool shop". I even bought a Nav Update USB from them once. That tool IS the Toyota workshop tool.

moto g(7) power ?

 

I'll dig a bit, have a part no for the Toyota socket IIRC. And recollect it was plain Jane steel. Had a cutout to facilitate pry off.

 

Well, I may be dreaming, can't find it. Do see the cast aluminum one with extended sidewall, slots for stiffeners.

Anyway, no issues here using the Honda stamped steel socket, and found in the last couple of years it's also compatible with Mazda filters. Seems a pretty common size now (14 flute / 64.0 mm).


Honda part no in above is from the '90's, out-of-date. Current part no I believe is: 07AAA-PLCA100. The ads sometime say 65.0 mm, but mine measures 64.5 mm, inside face-to-face of flutes.

The drive is 3/8" inside, 17 mm outside.

 

Here’s the cap removal tool I got, works fine as long as the cap has not been abused by 10 years of Jiffy Lube chimpanzees. A new cap, this tool, and 18 ft/lbs and I was good to go. Still going to do the spin on conversion, though.

 

Exact same one I have. Worked perfectly on the PiP and continues to work perfectly on the Prime.

 

This is the one I use: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y5JWW1W/

 

Thanks a lot for the information, exactly what I was looking for , don’t like the cheap tools ....