Oil Change Access Door

^ Wow! Start making them now and sell them.

 

Well, it was fun cutting it out, but overkill, LOL.

You know what an "H" connector is, used between sheets of butting plywood? Maybe something along that principal would do: all that's needed is to capture the broken hinge edge, keep it aligned with the adjoining edge. Doesn't matter, and is actually preferable, if the hatch comes right off, when the push-in fasteners are removed.

Something like this (a section cut across the hinge zone):

 

^ you must be an engineer.

 

Please keep us posted
thanks

 

I haven't been under my car in awhile, but why not just a cheap, simple door hinge or two? A couple washers on either side and should be able to easily swing that door down each time you need it. Heck, if you did that, you could add a small "clip" to hold the door completely back/open when you're changing the oil.

Maybe I'm missing something, did my last Oil Change about 4 months ago so didn't scope the entire thing out. Door hinges, if an option, are only a few $ each. Too bad I've never seen them in stainless steel, but I would imagine a simple coating of paint would also help prevent it from possibly rusting in place.

I guess I'll have to look at it closer next time I'm under there. I know that I busted another cheap push pin under there the last time I was under it. I would have to agree, that the design is poor, but I like the fact that it's there. I think it helps cut out a little road noise (not too much) in additional to protecting the under carriage area. The 07 HCH I had also had a cover down there. I had free oil changes from when I bought the car, so I was never under neath it.

 

Brass hinges are also inexpensive and they won't rust.

 

Problem solved! Now the issue is remembering this if/when my access door breaks....

 

So OK, why has no one said "PIANO HINGE"??? And even they can be brass. Purchase one near the right width for the door,....place underneath the closed door, drill holes through existing holes in hinge through plastic panel on one side, door on the other,----fasten in place with pop rivets. ????? Too simple? I don't know, I haven't been under there in a while, but when I first looked at it I knew this oversimplistic engineering was not going to last the life of oil changes necessary for the car,.........even at 10K intervals.

 

No way man... the additional weight and air resistance would likely drop your FE by at 5 or 6. jk

At least up here, any kind of metal wouldn't last long under there. Plus those type of hinges have small tolerances and with a bunch of road grim/dirt would likely gum up.

 

A one inch wide strip of fiberglass web or nylon could also be used as a hinge. Just put the fabric on the top and bolt it using washers to keep the plastic from cracking. It would be similar to leather strap hinges that were used wayyyyy back when.

 

Toyota must love this "McIver" mentality: ingenious owners coming up with solutions for Toyota's screw-up.


I'm thinking a week or two before my first oil change I'll take a crack at completely removing that panel. There's 11 push-in fasteners (of at least 2 varieties), and I believe 6 bolts. It's likely worth making a little sketch of what goes where. I believe there's an additional raft of fasteners in common with the panel ahead of it.

 

I'm amazed that no one has suggested duct tape yet.

Some of those fasteners on that panel are different lengths.

 

I haven't had it off yet but I thought when I did I would put a little dab of white paint by each fastener hole, maybe a different mark for each type of fastener.

 

What I hate about this door is the fact that the car has to be ramped up quite high so that there is enough clearance for the door to swing open. I used to change the oil in my other cars with a home-made ramp with 3 2x4's, but now I need 5 for the Prius, and it's getting to be quite unstable. ASCII art of my ramp below:

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But I digress. My point is that the hinge solution will also have this same drawback. What I'm thinking of is simpler - just stick two pieces of hard plastic jutting out on the hinge side. These would just tuck into place. You can then slide the door in and out, without the need for the high clearance. I'll attach a picture to show what I mean.

 

Good idea, do you think it might help to put a pieces both above and below the panel on the "new pieces" end to help hold it in place?

 

I see what you mean - it might help make that joint more stable - sort of like a zipper, with support both up and down. Someone has to try it out. And it's not going to be me, since I just finished my 1400 mile oil change, so I'm going to have to do several more changes before the door breaks.

 

Another option to the above, rather than plastic pieces, why not a short section of metal, with a nut welded in place? Then you could just use a screw (or two) to secure it up, and simply remove when you needed to change the oil. Similar idea to the rivets, but more secure and easier to get back off. Of course, that also requires someone with the tools to do that.

The hinge option wouldn't necessarily require the higher clearance, if you used nuts and bolts you could easily remove them with the panel only partially down.

 

Hang on: I've got the patent on that: post #22

 

If you have a pristine Engine Under Cover, some ideas on how to keep it that way:

1. Keep time-pressed professionals away from it.

2. To open the maintenance door:

a) Pre-heat the hinge zone with a hair dryer, or a more powerful paint stripping gun, held back a bit further.

b) Bend the door only as far as needed for access, say 90 degrees.

c) Secure it in that position with a length of string looped through one of the fastener holes and tied back to a point on the undercarriage.

d) Do not bend the door right back, through 180 degrees, in an attempt to "loosen it up".

 

I bought parts. I will post pictures once I'm done. Too much discussion and not enough doing