Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock!

Those are EGR passageways, basically the end of the EGR circuit. Have you cleaned the EGR?

 

Yep, about 4,000 miles ago.

 

Update: After some 200 miles, these are the things I noticed:
1. My exhaust tip is extremely clean now, no carbon, no soot. (It had a lot before)
2. My engine knock has gotten worse.
3. There's still oil pooling in my manifold.
4. There's like teeny tiny improvement in mpg. I think

I am gonna start the intake job in a couple of hours. Hoping the knock vanishes after that.

Originally, I experienced a knock if I prematurely shut ICE down on a cold start up without letting it get warm enough .
Now basically, on every cold start, it's there and doesn't go away until I accelerate it a bit and then let it get warm with the accelerator pressed.

And even after the engine is warm enough, when ICE kicks in at idle state, there's a very short knock for a split second.

P.S has any one got an OCC with a dipstick in it? I removed it while the engine was running and it started knocking the exact same way it does on a cold start, so I quickly put it back inside the OCC, FYI it had a vacuum which sucked the dipstick back inside itself.

 

Intake just has one inlet from the EGR. Which passageways are you talking about?

I'll check these out while I clean the intake, if they are dirty I might clean the EGR too but if they ain't I should save the trouble

 

Each of the 4 large openings on the intake manifold (that go to the cylinders) has it's own little hole that apparently carry the EGR 'air' (AFAIK), therefore tend to foul up... as was the case with mine.

 

Yep! Damn I am noticing these for the first time LOL.

 

This is mine, having an Oxi-Clean soak:


(Having the EGR pipe attached, I put a funnel in it, for pouring in the Oxi. Need to put stoppers here and there.)

Each port has an EGR outlet, #4 flagged here.

The Oxi action is creating these columns of foam:



One shot where it's not buried in foam:

 

Here's my contribution to the oil catch can installation. I drilled a hole in the catch can bracket, and used a 1/4-20 bolt and nut to secure it to the car's frame (cyan arrow). There's already a hole of the right size on the frame, so it's a no-brainer. Want to also thank all who contributed to the thread to make this relatively straightforward.
From the top of car:

Bottom of car:

 

Thanks for the info!

 

harry, I’m in the same boat as you are right now. I’m about at my wits end with my car over this. It knocks no matter what I do.

 

Ya man same here. It's knocking so badly! I just either put it into N (neutral) or start driving it instantly to avoid the knock on a cold start. And ya, it's strange it only knocks on P or D when it's charging the battery. I don't how everyone else solved their problem LOL

 

Maybe you have a leaking injector allowing fuel in the chamber and it's igniting???

 

You should check your spark plugs for that!

 

Depends on how bad the leak is. If the injector is dirty, it wouldn't always leak.
When it's cold, the fuel with sit.
But then driving it would even out and the plug wouldn't be black.
If they are dirty, the spray pattern will not be misty, there could be a stream,
which would cause the fuel not to burn evenly or completely.

 

So how should one diagnose it?

 

Are you getting and codes? I’m getting a cylinder 2 and 4 misfire codes

 

No, no codes here. Nothing strange at all, just the knock whenever I start the car when it's cold. It knocks for 2,3 minutes until unless I press the gas pedal or shift it to N

 

You should check your spark plugs and your coils.

 

You have to remove the injectors and hook up a hose with a pressurized tank so you can watch the spray.
Reading back over the posts I noticed you haven't cleaned the intake manifold. Have you done that yet?
You said you got knocking when you removed the dip stick of the occ. You could have a vacuum leak.
Have you checked all the connectors?

 

I was supposed to clean the manifold yesterday but I couldn't. I am gonna do that soon. Okay, yeah so how do I figure out the vacuum leak first? Is there an easy way to check for a leak?