Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock!

Id employ the philosophy that better those lights are caught and not sent through the combustion process than to have them go through.

An old wives tail:

An ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of flesh.

 

Sounds like you need a higher "tech" model of OCC. Perhaps one that uses an external heating system to keep it operational at temperatures below freezing!

 

Catch can warning for cold climates!!! - Mazdaspeed Forums

Discussion here about OCC's freezing. One contributor suggested to put an ounce or two of windshield de-icer fluid in the can. And also, if it's got a bottom drain, warm it with a heat gun, make sure there's not a stuck lump of ice remaining.

 

Cold temperatures definitely increase the amount of water caught by the OCC. Over the summer, I was catching very little, checking every fill up. About 6 weeks back, I was driving across Canada, and temperatures were dropping to around 0 C, increasing condensation of water vapor inside the OCC. I was driving about 500 miles per day and checking the OCC every fill up. I skipped the OCC check one time, and the next check, only two days since the previous check, the OCC was maybe 2/3rds full!

When I was emptying the can that time with it so full, I realized that I was possibly tipping the OCC far enough over while unscrewing the bottom to let some of the liquid go back down the hoses. I've been more careful keeping the OCC level when unscrewing the OCC since then. I still am using clear braided hoses (and the Ruien-style OCC, mounted same location as danlatu's), and I now think that the outlet hose finally starting to get stained finally is probably due to the contents of the OCC swishing around during turns (especially left turns)/acceleration/braking, etc when the OCC is over about half full. I didn't add steel wool scrubbies or other media to the OCC, and it has worked well since install (January 2018). I am keeping it that way for ease of cleaning it out when the contents are more of a greasy foam.

 

Good point Lightning - there's no steel wool in my OCC either.

Pixel XL ?

 

I usually plug in our block heater for a couple of hours before the first cold start of the day. If I was in the interior I'd consider adding a small oil pan heater, on the same circuit.

 

I just bought a used 2014 Prius v with 37k mileage. I've been reading and searching the various threads regarding maintenance and issues with the Gen 3 Prius. The idea of adding the OCC is intriguing, however a couple of questions arise:
1) I have an extended warranty , would it void or affect that?
2) I live in Southern California, would it affect smog testing?
3) Is it prudent to add OCC sooner than later, or with current mileage under 40k, does it make more sense to do it at 80or 100k?
I appreciate all the wisdom, experience and input that is on this forum.
Thanks,
KarlW

 

Something like this?

Screen grab, for those with ad blocks:



One hiccup though: if your OCC drops into a ring holder, the bulk of this pad would prevent you removing it, unscrewing it, whatever.

Maybe near 100% cargo cult, and just more frequent monitoring/vigilance in winter is all you need.

 

Ihave thought 12v heater wire what i would put along the tubes and around the OCC. Then insulate slew over tubes and insulate OCC.
Im more worried that tubes would freeze during driving than bottom of the OCC what would not be so big deal.
But still, its just a thought...

Here at finland it is not permitted to put 230v heaters/wires etc under hood if it is not designed to be there. I.e it needs to have armored wires for example. Insurance companies will wash their hands off if your car burns.

 

A plug in water pipe heater with a built in thermostat would do the same thing. Run the tape down the hoses with a loop around the catch can.

They are widely available in hardware stores including Home Depot and Lowe's.

 

I'm think this is mainly to prevent a PCV clog with dead-cold engine? Hopefully once engine bay is warming it's ok.

 

Ok after reading about the OCC , I ordered one , my question is has anyone installed an OCC without taking the manifold apart or is that a must to get good access to the pvc valve and connect the fuel lines , just got a 2012 with 46,000 on it and figure I might as well get a OCC

 

The PCV valve is easily access with the removal of just the front part of the plastic undercover of the engine using a 10mm socket wrench and a small screwdriver to pry out the center of the plastic rivets.

Easily removing the resonator and air intake box provides additional access from the top. The intake manifold needs not to be removed.

 

ok thank you , should be pretty easy to install then , just have to get under there and check things out

 

We installed @RMB ’s catch can without removing the intake manifold at a previous Bay Area meet.

It can be done.

 

If you're gonna clean the intake manifold out though, I'd do the pcv (and oil catch can) when the manifold's off.

 

If the manifold is off, that’s best.

But it can be done without the removal of the intake manifold if doing the job on its own without pairing it with any other servicing .

Good subtle advice to pair it up though.

 

At 52k miles last year my PCV valve replacement or manifold cleaning weren’t really due yet so the oil catch can installation was done alone. I later replaced the cheap braided hoses with fuel hoses also without removing intake manifold.

Total time was about 1 hour for the installation as there was more chitchat than work , but took less than 30 minutes when I replaced the hoses, which is basically the very same procedure as installing OCC all over again, so it’s a fairly simple job.

 

No problem getting to it by just removing the air intake/resonator. Takes an hour or so.

 

I had to remove my catch can. Up here in mn, it was full after 300 miles with mostly water condensation. My wife also complained of oil smell at stoplights. Removed the can and smell is gone.