Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock!

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by danlatu, May 22, 2017.

  1. JDZILL

    JDZILL Junior Member

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    Made the bracket from some aluminum angle stock about 3" long, back cut middle of V 2", and bent it outward to mount tank, cut top off up to the 1" chassis mount. To remove for cleaning, I'll just remove the two 6 mm oil can bracket screws.
     
  2. JDZILL

    JDZILL Junior Member

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    The cooler wasn't to bad on EGR side, getting there on cat side. Anyone use a vibrating parts washer on the cooler, will that speed up the process some?
     
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  3. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Haven’t seen a documented case here, but you can give it a shot;).

    I’d block the engine coolant side to avoid any cleaning solvent getting there as it could leave a sheen on the surface, which could act as a fouling medium and cause lack of heat transfer :(.

    Good luck and keep us posted (y).
     
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  4. Tbkilb01

    Tbkilb01 Active Member

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    Actually pics dont give justice...was definitely baked/cooked on through and through...definitely there and more...coated thick,...probably a just in time cleaning... pushed its way to intake, clogging up egr valve as it worked its way to intake. Definitely slowed down the cooling effect it was designed for...... had my doubts cleaning would help but stayed on the course. Now just add to maintenance schedule...
     
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  5. HyperErik

    HyperErik New Member

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    Thanks for responding SFO! (y)

    Yeah, the OCC is a bit on the expensive side for sure, but I was interested in how well it was engineered and performed a lot of research on reviews in the Corvette community through the years. :)

    LOL! I thought about that, as far as how clean my TB was.

    For sure! I can finally drive this car and not be concerned about racking up too many miles. I would own high performance sports cars in the past, where I would baby and not drive them as much. NOT FUN! I bought the car with 16k miles, so I plan on putting on at least 10k per year. I work from home.
     
  6. evilchargerfan

    evilchargerfan Junior Member

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    has anyone found another means of mounting the catch can closer? and with less hose?
     
  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Witness Leader

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    I mounted it with a slotted angle bracket atop the lower cross beam, below the manifold. You need to put some sort of rubber washers and lock nuts in that bracket connection though, because that beam flexes when using the front central jacking point.

    There's some pics and explanation way back in this thread.

    Access is from below, say in conjunction with oil changes.
     
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  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Witness Leader

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  9. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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  10. jas8908

    jas8908 Member

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  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Witness Leader

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    They're very commonly available, Home Depot (or other) plumbing department:

    upload_2018-4-19_12-59-29.png

    https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.38-inch-lead-free-brass-barb-splicer.1001001397.html

    They would have assorted hose clamps sizes too.

    Fuel line is good choice, described as "rubber fuel line" in automotive specialty stores:

    upload_2018-4-19_13-2-46.png

    3/8 in. Rubber Fuel Line / ft | Princess Auto
     
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  12. Simonak

    Simonak Member

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    I final received my OCC mount thx Danlatu. It was a little tight so i did sand it and now it fit perfect.

    [​IMG]
     
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  13. tvpierce

    tvpierce Senior Member

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    For what it's worth, I used plastic fittings from ACE Hardware -- you'll find them on the same rack/display as the brass. If I remember correctly, the brass fittings were about $8 each, the plastic were under a dollar. I needed two, so $16 or $1.80... it was an easy choice for me.
     
  14. Simonak

    Simonak Member

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    I did use plastic one too it was super tight fit and was pretty cheap.
    But i used only one because I did connect the OCC hose right to the PCV valve.
     
  15. jas8908

    jas8908 Member

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  16. qettyz

    qettyz Active Member

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    Oh damn me and my perfection.. Finally warm enought out so that i could install my OCC back after winter. Thought alot tube routing after removed it before winter that there was tube clamps touching water lines what are close the stock PCV tube and was not happy about it, could wear them out and thought that later spring install it better.
    Spend 2 hours installing OCC lines and removing them, installing and removing. Just could not get them the way i would accept it.
    Seems that i have to go and buy new tubes so can route them complete different way if im going to get some sleep at nights.
     
  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Witness Leader

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    @Simonak That's one brutally burnished engine bay:

    upload_2018-4-20_10-39-12.png

    Lot's of miles, salted roads?
     
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  18. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    At least the paint color choice looks good(y).
     
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  19. Kingsway

    Kingsway Active Member

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    A few zip ties could prevent chafing, and the heat from the coolant pipes might help prevent moisture condensing out of and filling the catch-can unnecessarily in damp weather? In my Yaris./Prius C the PCV pipe is insulated by a thick foam sleeve, and is connected through a heat exchanger to keep the vapour at engine coolant temp just before putting it back in the manifold...
     
  20. Simonak

    Simonak Member

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    My next project is to clean the engine but yes years of salty winters here in Chicago.
     
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