Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock!

You could do that.

Some questions:

• How clean were the used parts?
• Did you clean all of the new to your Prius parts and visually inspect prior to install?
• Did you confirm the “new” egr valve was working (did you take the black cap off and manually actuate the plunger)?

You’ll need to keep in mind that if the car is started, it will run down the traction battery. If you do another startup, I’d check the hv battery level as you might be on a pitch count.

Keep us posted.

 

The used parts came from low mileage vehicles and were not that dirty, but I cleaned the cooler and pipe anyway with repeated oxyclean hot water soaks. Visual inspection was done and I could see light thorough the cooler with a flashlight. I removed the EGR valve from the EGR valve assembly and when I removed it, the spring decompressed and the plunger closed. I cleaned it just like in the NAB video. I did actuate the plunger physically so I could clean it thoroughly.

The intake manifold was cleaned as shown in the NutzAboutBolts (NAB) video, including the four small holes as shown in the picture.


I will prolong charge the traction battery (since the car has been sitting awhile too) once the rain stops which is forecast to be on Tuesday.

I guess my next step is to swap out the intake manifold back to original after I clean it. Then, maybe swap out the cooler back to original. I just tried removing the EGR valve from the cooler and the phillips screws are on there so tight, I'm worried about stripping out the heads, but drilling out the screws is par for this job it seems.

I guess the good news is if someone tries to do this project, they should know going in, due to my experience, that their car might be out of commission for a long time and it could possibly cost quite a bit of money to get it fixed. This knowledge might make them think twice about choosing such an undertaking.

 

To get the screws off of the egr valve head, an impact screwdriver is the tool to use.

Sounds like everything was cleaned and inspected. The gasket at the inlet to the egr cooler from the exhaust manifold was properly seated?

With 36k miles, you already have a Prolong harness and setup ?

It’s a great tool to have, just surprised at the mileage and that you have it. I have the Prolong equipment for our 2010, but that’s at 177 k miles and has returned life back to our pack.

 

I made a half-hearted attempt at removing the screws with an impact screw driver with Phillips head bit, but stopped, concerned that the heads were about to strip. Lately stumbled on this:

The screws are very likely Japan Industrial Standard, not Phillips. Apparently the case for all Made In Japan vehicles with cross-head screws. There is a different screw driver style for these: they lock positively, and there are impact versions available.

Japan Industrial Standard (JIS) screw drivers | PriusChat

I have a #3 Vessel Impact Screwdriver on order, will need it soon for some Honda brake rotor screws. There's #1 through #3 size I believe, #3 being the largest. When I get mine I'll try to check, but I suspect that'd be the size required for the Toyota EGR valve screws.

This is the one I have on order, ETA some time in May:

 

Sorry about all these problems you are having. I think you are the first one here to have sustained trouble after doing any of this stuff.

In fact, this discussion is making me a bit paranoid about my own 'spring maintenance' plan. I'm wondering if it might be wise for others to take a 'step by step' approach rather than going 'all in'. That is, do the manifold (and possibly PCV valve) first, and then the EGR (and possibly plugs) second, etc... Or take an even more peicemeal approach..even though it would take more time. This would greatly reduce debug time if something goes wrong.

 

Unfortunately, the impact screwdriver stripped the heads.

Yes, all gaskets were double checked for proper seating.

I'm aware of the Japan screws. Thing is I had no problem removing the EGR valve from the used cooler. Maybe I just got lucky.

Well, farmecologist, my bright side is my experience makes you and others think twice about doing this.

 

The impact screwdriver set from harbor freight has 6 different size bits and is less than 1/2 the cost.

I guess that is if you have access to a harbor freight .

 

For the record..I ordered one too.

...but that Amazon one click is just sooooooo easy.

 

I'm thinking before having it towed, I will lastly put the original dirty parts back in, see if it works, and call it a day. Hopefully.

 

That's not JIS though? Have a look at the video in that thread link I posted: it's interesting, there's subtle difference in the bits, the JIS bits lock positively, whereas Phillips rock and tend to jump out when you apply torque. Regarding prices: keep in mind my amazon link for the Vessel impact driver was Amazon.ca.

Huh: considering exchange rates, about the same in the States:

 

I’d clean the parts before reassembly, but that’s a good step.

Did you buy new gaskets or just reuse the old ones?
Would you tow it to an independent shop or a dealer?

Keep us posted on how this works out and what the cause was.

 

Agreed the harbor freight set is not JIS.

But I am limited on garage space and don’t have all the right tools for every job.

I have used the impact screwdriver on 4 separate egr valve caps, and each time it was successful .

Just my experience as a data point .

 

Close these days on the exchange rate, which is still 2x the cost.

I remember in my younger days going to niagra falls to gamble (19 versus 21 in Atlantic City and long before all the Indian casinos cropped up) and when we would play, the American dollar would equate to much more at the gambling table .

We thought of it as play money.

 

I'm afraid to clean the original parts for fear of adding another variable. Plus, I'm pretty much ready for this to be over. Taking this apart one time is a big job. Doing it multiple times is just awful.

If it runs on the original parts, I will never undertake this again and will just sell it once it hits 100K rather than keeping it until it dies as I had originally planned. This will avoid having to deal with a blown head gasket.

The first time I just reused the same gaskets, but I had some new ones as a backup. When I went back in the second time, I put in all new gaskets. I would hope to tow it to an independent shop, but many don't want anything to do with a Prius. Will call around tomorrow to see if anyone will work on it if the original parts don't get it running properly.

 

This could happen with any used part from a junkyard. Was manifold in an accident and hairline cracked? I guess the good news is that if you're using junkyard parts be prepared for worst case...

Getting back to you problem - low MAF reading + high MAP reading means vacuum leak or bad TPS like everyone mentioned here. It could also IMHO possibly mean EGR is stuck open since the EGR fault monitoring is notoriously awful. Here's what I'd do: when you get the traction battery charged up is to take the intake resonator off the vehicle to expose the throttle body piping. Intake resonator is the big seemingly useless cavity before the air filter on top of the throttle body. Then check for vacuum leaks.

Vacuum leaks can be checked with smoke or with carb spray when engine's running. When spraying carb spray around a leak the RPMs will jump a little bit.

Also, did you torque manifold bolts in the correct order (starting in the middle and working in a criss-cross pattern) and to the correct torque spec? Do you have a torque wrench?

Pixel XL ?

 

Yea those JIS screws are torqued tight...Your EGR was probably never commanded on at start up, so it's good. Sounds like intake gasket. Did you ever check PURGE VALVE connects and hose? It probably wouldn't be commanded on at start up either but...
Might be time to do a few checks on MAF/MAP. Powers, ground, signal...
may show problem....
Have you put it into maintenance mode for a listen at engine running?
Did you check fuse EFI 2...

 

Yes, manifold bolts were torqued as you stated, but I didn't use a torque wrench. I have an old torque wrench & don't trust it since I'm sure it needs calibrating. I looked at buying a new one but they are hit or miss on whether you can trust them (according to the reviews). To get a good one, I would have to spend about $150. Oh, and I wouldn't trust a used one either.

I still don't know what the EVAP purge valve is. MAP was already replaced. I did put it into maintenance mode upon first initial startup and it sounded bad.

I haven't checked the fuse yet. Is it the EFI 2?

Once the rain lets up, I will finish installing the original, dirty intake manifold and go from there.

 

I went out And unplugged the MAF
Immediately the MIL light turned on
As computer did its initial 12ish second check before engine startup. This is a pic from app.
MAF reads 0.09gm/sec

 

Which app is that? I have no codes after disconnecting the 12 v battery.

What is the EVAP purge valve?

 

I believe the ECM checks circuit everytime powered on. Did you try just IGN on. Push power button 2 times, no brake! Kinda like accessories mode...
You could READY prius and shut off before MG starts engine too