Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock!

You should hold on to your original one as a spare. Clean it up good, shelve it, and 120K miles or so later, swap it back in!!

 

Or maybe sooner.

Here’s what I found after doing some preventative maintenance this weekend:

What did you do to ur Gen III Prius today????

What did you do to ur Gen III Prius today????

Hold onto the spare setup as it shortens the downtime .

 

Guess we're going to see what the EGR circuit on a 2014 with a tick under 30k miles looks like,...

You know I can't let it go, plus the low-mileage clean-out record needs to be swiped from that @Mendel Leisk.

 

Take the plunge .

If considering an OCC, definitely club up and get fuel line instead of the cheap braided hose that comes with most kits.

$4 at the nearest oreillys got me 2 feet of 3/8 inch fuel line and that’s all I needed for a lower mounted catch can.

 

Maybe an argument to go with the more expensive can to see if it can do better. That is, the EX-2 or (the real) RXP.

 

I was surprised to see how dirty @Raytheeagle's cooler was after that little jaunt. I guess it's the oil burning contributing to the soot in the exhaust system.

My experiment with TCW-3 will be interesting. Will the TCW3 cause added soot? Will it's cleaning powers dominate?

Pixel XL ?

 

I have been obsessed with this thread for quite some time now! I bought a used 2012 Prius Two in January with 16.8k miles, and was quite familiar with the OCC concept. I installed one on a Mazdaspeed 3 a few years ago, as that motor was direct injection, and had a known problem of carbon buildup long term.

After reading this entire thread, and taking notes as far as possible cans to use and the installation types, I decided to go with Elite Engineering’s standard catch can. It is a USA manufactured high quality can with sound engineering to it (3-chamber design) at a reasonable price ($160).

After contacting Steve at EE, he was interested in developing a custom bracket for the can to install at a factory position, so he sent off 5 different brackets for testing. I had the can professionally installed at Balanced Performance, north of Atlanta, and Kyle was able to shorten one of the brackets to mount onto a factory hole on the passenger strut tower.

I have included some reference photos for you guys, and was very impressed with the build quality of the can, as well as the custom installation. I also included a photo of the condition of my throttle body currently. I was unable to check the condition of my intake valves however. Based on the TB photo, do you guys think I’m clean there as well?

I will keep this thread updated to see how much this setup catches.

 

That's a good location, I was thinking about that, for an upper location, but opted for below intake manifold. Just to verify, that on the side of the passenger shock tower, if I'm not mistaken? I noted there was a threaded hole there. Pretty tight, but the can you're using is smaller diameter, just fits.

 

I've drained mine (Moroso) a couple times now, at roughly 1500 km intervals, and both times got about 50~60 cc. Both times the look of cafe au lait. When the first one had sat a few months it separated into about 50/50 darker looking oil and near-white liquid at top, water I'd assume, with maybe a little gas. I'll check again at the fall oil change.

 

Thanks for your kind words, and I believe you are correct Mendel! The installer said strut tower and that is most likely shock tower like you suggested. I really have no idea...lol!

 

Welcome to PriusChat!!

Leaving my opinion on the reasonable price out of it, make it flat/matte without the logo and let me see if it 'passes' the local smog techs 'visual inspection'

Careful. Without naming anyone, this could quickly turn into another whose throttle body is cleaner

Please try to incur more mileage over the next 5 years. Would hate for a usable HV battery to just waste away like that

 

Am wondering did you use the 1 oz per 5 gallon rule ? I started doing it and i was in my third tank and saw a decrease in my mpg

I also ended up buying a husky air water seperator. I found oil in my intake manifold with my home made occ. so i will be making my homemade occ better then having two occ connected together i want to hold onto my prius for awhile its a good daily for my commute to work.

 

Yes, that's my rato.

I can't really comment on MPGs. The weather's been random and I've started my fifth tank.
Pixel XL ?

 

I Just did 200k checkup including the previous OCC/EGR cleaning and Yea, when I pulled cork out bottom of reservoir, the cafe au lair look poured out, not much but definitely poured!... so I dug into EGR and intake. Intake spotless, just a little moist with oil film. EGR system was okay to just build up of oil film. Nothing like my the first time! No caking/coking to spend hours cleaning! I Worked system over real good again. Using throttle body/carb cleaner on EGR COOLER worked better than brake clean. Plugged up one end and filled, plugged other end and let set, blow nozzled out and repeated. Recleaned piping, and intake as well... definitely keeping "all that" out of cylinders! And still no rattling of engine. No pics

 

I installed a catch can today & cleaned the cooler, pipe, throttle body, and intake manifold. The engine runs really rough & I get the following codes: P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input, P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input, & P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input.

I double checked the connections including the MAF. Anybody have any ideas?

 

Go back and recheck your work. I always disconnect 12v battery and traction battery before any work just to be on safe side but that's just me. I just did same work and There's allot of plumbing down there. Make sure your connections (hoses) are proper. Make sure nothing knocked lose/ left off/stretched out wires. Make sure your 12v is still @12v!...did you remove MAP sensor from intake before cleaning? Did you disconnect MAF before tugging on filter box? Did you connect fresh air ducts properly and snugly!
Restart after resetting ECM (will erase after reconnecting 12v) if codes pop up again, may need to test MAP and MAF readings/voltages..

 

Second batch of Vanilla cream latte! Straight from the OCC. 1 K miles driven for this iteration.

2K miles of accumulation.

By accident really, the routing of the OCC tubing does drop below the PVC valve. Any fluid that doesn't make it to the OCC will settle in the tubing and not drain back to the PVC valve.

 

Long hoses - Catch can at the front of the engine bay, so vapour gets cooled too much and water is condensed out...? My car has short pipes which are insulated with a foam sleeve about 5mm thick and, what I at first thought was an oil separator, now appears to be a heat exchanger , using engine coolant to HEAT UP the vapours from the PCV - presumably to make sure no water gets sucked into the manifold

 

My hose runs are very short, drop down to OCC mounted on lower cross beam, then back up. I'm seeing the same creamy stuff, and it separates into 50/50, oil at the bottom and I'd surmise water with god-know-what at the top. I'd speculate it's due to wet winters, and when I check again in the fall it'll be less and mostly oil. Time will tell.

 

I'm still keen to try a second, cyclonic, separator ahead of my current arrangement to see what if anything comes out of my engine.