Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock!

If you want to completely block the egr and you know the meaning of that code why would you worry bout it. Car can run with the code. Its all about the clean air.

 

I thought if egr completely blocked than we will get lower mpg in city driving cause engine tries hard to get the air it needs from the throttle body for the burning process but if its a freeay driving than egr, i think its blocked most of the time.
And of course the other reason to reduce air polution and cath all those NO particles.

 

True, I just dont want to drive around with a check engine light on!

 

What is "all about the clean air"?

As far as Engine efficiency and longevity the 2ZR-FXE runs better with 79% "clean air" and 21% "dirty air" (EGR)

 

That doesn't apply to the 2ZR-FXE. Someone on Priuschat found that the EGR valve is also open on the freeway even at high speed.

It's used to reduce engine temperatures and improve combustion efficiency. Blocking it will lower your MPG in city and on highway. Blocking it will also blow your new head gasket.

 

Assuming the engineers designed the EGR system for optimum engine performance, but failed to anticipate how clogged it could get, I would aim to restore it to near-new condition, and get proficient at that, so you can revisit it periodically.

Also consider an Oil Catch Can install: it may reduce future EGR carbon build-up, who knows.

 

Or they knew about the EGR clogging problem. When a car company doesn't put something on the scheduled maintenance knowing that it will shorten the life of the product - I believe it's called planned obsolescence. Another example is the "lifetime" eCVT fluid.

 

Fourth gen has the EGR intake downstream of the catalytic converter, so I'll assume they just realized they screwed up, are rectifying it.

I recently got this, and I believe there's similar in the states? So they're at least acknowledging the issue:



Still, I don't trust them to do it right, and did not want to sit around waiting for a CEL, possibly damaging the engine in the interim.

 

Does that bulletin means they will replace egr under warrant only if code exists? I know for sure in my car dealer did not replace it nor cleaned it just by looking at the bolts and dust on it.
If we are at this time frame we should push dealer for new egr. I might print that and go there . but than what about mighty rey no pipes to clean

 

The document says "The engine warning light may also illuminate with the DTC P0401", which I think infers a DTC is not mandatory for the repair, the symptoms alone could be sufficient.

The document is also very vague, as to what they would do. It would be commendable if they would follow a workflow similar to @Raytheeagle , ie: swap out EGR valve/cooler for one that's been pre-cleaned, then clean the removed components for the next time. I'm not sure if they'd entertain that though, would likely just replace with new, and that might lead to resistance from Toyo, since the parts retail for around $500 in total.

For me the thought of an uphill battle with a dealership, under-the-gun mechanics inexperienced with the repair, the low miles we have, and so many unknowns as to what they would actually do, all of this led me to DIY. If you go that route I would suggest:

1. Watch @NutzAboutBolts videos, several times. It involves the the main EGR video, plus a few others which he references.

2. Use Braklean for the valve, with a few brushes, and OxyClean soaks for the cooler. I wouldn't use Oxy on the valve, since I believe it's aluminum, and Oxy may react negatively with it. Not sure.

3. Drain a couple of liter of coolant (at the radiator spigot) at the outset, into a clean container. That'll negate the need to clamp hoses when removing. Just lift the cooler out without tipping, there will likely be a bit of coolant still in lower back corner, which you can pour out into your coolant catch container. When everything's back in place pour it back into the coolant reserve tank. If you have a vent valve on your year leave it open while adding the coolant. If not: pull off a hose end at that point, and reconnect once coolant starts coming out. Also squeeze the lower radiator hose a few times while adding coolant, may help to distribute it. Coolant level in the reservoir should end up slightly high, and be back to normal after a drive or two.

 

Yes. I wouldn't do it too.
Did you read that bulletin mendel posted. Next week i will have time .i will go to dealer, push him to a new egr coller. The whole thing. will also push him to open the IM and soak all that oil out of the throttle body. Its bothering me cause my car is still under warranty and i dont want to be accused for tampering by installing an OCC.

 

When dealer did my gasket i wasnt that knowlegable like im now. Just wanted to be back driving .but now after reading and watching eack and every post here and also Nuts n bolts vids, its different. Im more prepared to be a smart guy with my next visit to dealer.

 

Interesting primer on OCC concept:

 

Mendel is in a different country. Extended warranties are likely different.

 

^ Agree, my doc was from Toyota Canada. Was there something similar in the States? Or maybe I'm thinking about the inverter warranty extension, not sure...

 

Some people act like Canada is just another state of the US.

 

I wonder if they published any tsb bout that egr clogged issue for cali prius . just googled it but couldnt find any
@Mendel Leisk ?

 

I believe @Tideland Prius or @Elektroingenieur tries to keep track of TSBs.

 

Not to my knowledge. They have the TSB for the egr valve, so they feel they are covered.

But we know otherwise.

Having that knowledge, you can make arrangements to remedy their oversight .

 

Fixed that for you