Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock!

Do you mean 3/4? 3/8s is smaller than 1/2 inch in US. Do you have a link to this procedure you mention by elbowing?

 

You could just run the hose from the pvc valve and from the hose.
Then no adapter needed. Just maybe a 90 degree elbow, or two.

 

The original PCV hose to the intake goes from 3/8 inch ID and flares out to approximately 3/4 inch ID at the intake manifold end. It is shaped like a flattened U.

It is the hose on the left in this picture. The one on the right side is the corresponding hose from a 2014 Toyota Corolla.

You can see how you'd need to make a 90 degree turn almost immediately after the 3/4 inch hose, if you are going to go that route. That's why a 90 degree 3/4 inch to 3/8 inch barb fitting is used in the Nuts About Boltz video.

As mentioned above by Mendel, the easiest is to cut the original PCV hose in half, at the middle and use 3/8 inch barb connectors to use 3/8 inch fuel rated hose for all of the installation.

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Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock! | PriusChat

My effort:

Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock! | Page 72 | PriusChat

(I've subsequently deleted the hose clamps; they're not necessary with barb connectors, and the screw style can even be detrimental to the hose.)

 

Wow. Thank you everybody, I had to order other parts before I start the process next Monday/Tuesday. For cleaning the throttle body and the hoses, i understand you don’t need to remove the hoses. Do I still need to clamp the hoses even tho I am not disconnecting them from the throttle body?

 

No, no clamping necessary. That way you don't risk any damage to the hoses.

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No. Also, see first link in my signature.

 

Prius Adventure
2013 Prius Two. Bought it at 98K and has 160K MILES now. Due to inflation and gas prices I decided to keep it and do the maintenance/ catch can.

to start, I lived in California where I was getting 350 miles per tank (9.2 gallons each fill up)
since my commute to work was only 10 minutes (I learned about warming up the battery on longer commutes to get better range on here). Then I moved back to Florida with warm weather and my commute is now 60 miles round trip (37 minutes each way) where I get 48-50 miles per gallon according to my car reading.

One way driving
I drive 5 minutes at 70mph.
15-18minutes at 55mph.
3 minutes at 30mph (use the battery mostly)
15 minutes at 65mph.

It took a couple of weeks of ordering parts and video watching on YouTube thanks to Nutz and Boltz and Melvin (funny guy on YouTube). I found a small amount of oil in the throttle body (see pictures) and decided to go for it. Took about 6-7 hours broken up into two days.

I got a mix of ideas from people on this site, YouTube ans Nutz. Also, I ended up triple checking a lot of connections and the set up as a whole, I was also nervous cutting the fuel lines way too short, but everything worked out well.

I have no codes or problems. Went on the highway at 77mph and 80mph without issues.

In the next few weeks I will be doing the following:
- Coolant flush (along the other one)
- Transmission flush and refill.

To end this post I will track my miles now because I just did 430 miles in one tank of 9.2 gallons in low grade fuel = 46.7. I just filled up again and will be checking in on here to update you guys. For a car almost 10 years old I think the mpg average is still awesome, just needs some loving!

 

Nifty!
I don't see where you cleaned the egr cooler? Did you clean it and just no show photos???
That should be your next project. And the most important part, because it could cause a
head gasket failure....

 

I don’t think the EGR pipe was clogged as much and didn’t feel like doing the work for it. I’ll keep and eye on it and see if I get any codes in a year or so.

 

The pipe is nothing. The head gasket will likely blow before the pipe becomes clogged.
The cooler has smaller passages and that's what clogs. The cooler is the MOST important
part to clean. The 4 passages on the intake manifold are next.

You're engine though.

 

Agree, in order of priority:

EGR cooler/valve>intake manifold EGR passages>EGR pipe.

An oil catch can is also high on the list along with the above cleaning to help mitigate future fouling. There will always be some oil through the PCV valve/system, but an oil catch can help prevent some of the carbon buildup and possibly seizing of the oil rings on the piston/rings, and carbon in the EGR circuit.

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Disagree. Intake manifold egr ports first. The car is smart enough to know if the cooler is clogged and compensate appropriately. It's not smart enough to know when one (always cylinder 1) of the tiny egr ports in the intake manifold is clogged.

 

OK, good point.

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If the car is smart enough to know the cooler is clogged, why doesn't it tell you?
If the intake ports are clogged, you might get a code.

Both ARE important. But, if the cooler is clogged, or almost clogged you risk a head gasket
failure. If the intake ports are clogged, or clogging, you have that risk. And you'll possibly
have a missfire code.

Any way you look at it, there is no sense in only doing part of the job. Unless you only have time to
do the cooler or intake, and then the next weekend you do the other.

 

That's a good approach.

 

Battery fan cleaned 2 months ago.
Used Mobil Techron fuel injector cleaner a month or so ago.
Tire specs 37psi front 35psi back.

So here is an MPG update post oil catch can/air intake cleaning:

Last 4 fill ups I’ve been using Mobil low grade fuel (thanks to this forum). I got 444 miles in a 9.4 gallon fill up! I’ve never gotten that far up in miles since buying this car 4 years ago. So I also did some math
444miles + 10 miles in the tank left (rounding down from 15 shown in photo) = 454miles in one tank.
454miles/9.4 gal (las fill up) = 48.2 miles per gallon. Rounding down would be 48 miles.

how’s that looking, gents? Thoughts or comments??

From now on I’ll start filling up mid grade and update everyone about it 5K miles from now!

 

The 87 octane is all you need. It's what Toyota calls for. You'll see no improvement
for using a higher octane.
48mpg is good!

 

Anybody know bolt specs for these? Looking at it from the front

 

The ones holding plastic I would just snug firmly, not critical. I think one is for the top hold-down bolt of EGR, you could look that up in the EGR pdf in first link in my signature. Off top of my head it might be 15 ft/lb.