Oil Analysis, Redline D6 ATF 30k miles

I agree, and keep saying that...
So,,, I'm almost certain that I copied the meat of the matter from my posts above and added it in a current 'EGR Cleaning' thread.

But now I can't find it anywhere.

Strange. Are postings just deleted sometimes without telling the poster why?

 

Try clicking on your avatar in the upper right hand corner and then click on "Your Content" and your post should show up there.

 

If you're a frequent poster it'll be down a few pages, but should be there. If I've ever had a post deleted, I've got a message from the mods. It's happened once or twice.

 

[QUOTE="The numbers all look fantastic, and support the claims that D6 is an incredible ATF choice for the Prius!

View attachment 159716 [/QUOTE]

Hello!
I am just wondering how is all going with D6? I did read all 7 pages of this thread, one member points out 11 years of use in gen2 (posted a few years go lol) with good results.

I am certainly interested in engine or transmission longevity . Had been using Mobil 1 EP and the 09 car just started to burn oil a bit at 167K. Did a flush and afterwards I am now using RL 5w30 Esther based & so far so good: The car quit burning oil.

I certainly can not afford a new car and literally need to keep it going until the wheels fall off. So far it looks like D6 may be able to help with that. I just did a WS change at a 60K interval and the transmission sounds quieter. That tells me that the oil did change in 60K. The magnetic plug does have a small cavity or recession where the magnet is placed and it was filled to the rim with a very fine magnetic powder. No large particles, If I am going to windup doing a change @ 30K while using WS, well, better D6? at 60K?

How does the magnetic plug look like with D6?

 

[QUOTE=".... I'll see if I can change it and send it out for another analysis in the next week or two!..........[/QUOTE]

Thank you so much for sharing! I appreciate it very much!

 

Redline D6 and Redline 10-30 since I bought my 2007 G2 brand new. 14 years and 175,000 miles on both products.

Sold it last year. 2 people drove it and both said this car runs
Ike new. Yes it does. 2nd guy drove it for 2 miles and said I’ll take it.

Had some leftover D6 put that in a 2010 Corolla I bought. Runs great.

Go over to BITOG see what they all say about WS lol…..considered crap over there.

WS is just a Dex6 with a big calcium pack to mitigate TAN so they can tout lifetime fluid. No thanks I prefer a very high quality GL4.

 

mmmmm it seems if you don't agree with b, you get banned.... sounds like another
biased platform.....

 

Come on, the ATF in a Prius transaxle has a very easy life.
No clutches, no hydraulic pressure running through valves, no torque converter generating heat in the fluid.
All it does is keep the gears and bearings lubed, and move around any heat from the motors. Does it ever get very hot compared to a conventional automatic transmission?

I suspect any ol'ATF will be fine in there. I prefer synthetics because I like technology!

But there is no such thing as lifetime fluid, unless you think 'lifetime' is ~100k miles.

Changing it removes metal debris as seen on the many oil analysis I posted here: ATF fluid changes ARE Required. | PriusChat
There are other OA's further down this old thread also.

Side note: I'm getting ready to use D6 in my Spark EV drive unit at 97k miles, and I guess I need to go buy an OA kit and see what's up with an EV drive unit!

 

When you say 'flush' are you talking about a 'Ring Soak' where you remove the spark plugs, get the pistons centered and pour a certain product in there and let it soak past the rings over a few days?
And of course changing the oil before starting the engine.
I have a friend with high mile Prii and this procedure definitely works for him!

I think the idea is it clears all the passages in the oil control rings and piston and loosens the carbon on all the ring lands.

 

Yes I agree trans fluid lives a very easy life in a G2 transmission its a fantastic bullet proof transmission actually. Would probably run on 4 quarts of 3 in 1 oil lol.

In fact if you change the trans fluid very early on after the break in period like at 5,000 miles like I did it really does not need to be changed again based on what I have seen changing my trans fluid 3 times. Once all the break in wear is out your good to go. Pretty much the same for the inverter fluid.

But it doesn't hurt to run really high quality oil & trans fluid in your car. Only hurts the wallet but to me its a very good investment. I save alot of money as I do all the work on my cars myself so why cheap out on oil?

Here's engine pics of a lifetime of Redline 10-30 at around 12 years old and 150,000 -160,000 miles. I am sure the trans is spotless also.

I run Redline in all my cars for the last 30 years. 3 Corvettes a Trans Am and lots of mama's grocery getter cars. All that time all those cars never lost an engine i never saw a trans shop and when i go to sell that car everything is running perfectly. And i got receipts of how well the car has been treated all its life. Really pays off at the end.

 

I wonder if the cold knock is caused by carbon build up. .
When you cold start your car, it is in a default mode till it warms up. After all these cars use a high rate of EGR flow and that adds to carbon build up everywhere.
A quick look at the pictures of pistons in blown gasket posts. Show horrible carbon build up.
All that extra carbon would also be bad for rings. Hence they changed their design.

 

1prius not sure what your referring to and too lazy to review all these posts but you own a G3 so at the minimum you need to do a complete service of the EGR system hundreds of posts on that. Very troublesome motor/design.

I recently sold something on Craigs List and they guy showed up in a G3. Asked him if its rattling on start up he said yes how did you know lol. He's using it for a Door Dash food delivery which is torture to this car. Never heard of Priuschat either. He's probably on here now getting the bad news.

Amazing to me his car is making really bad sounds and you don't investigate the web about it. If you posted the symptoms Priuschat would pop up I bet.

 

......you need to do a complete service of the EGR system hundreds of posts on that. Very troublesome motor/design....

Yup... I also own a Prius C.... and the darn thing's MPG really follows the ambient temperature: 50+ if ambient temp is 25C, any other temperature changes MPG to 42MPG and I think it will need the EGR serviced... I am glad I can do that, I just need to find a slot of time, I need to take plenty of time when doing that kind of stuff.

And if I am not careful the C will start to burn oil. Until recently I learned about the piston rings getting stuck and how that happens. That plus the change to weaker oil rings has me mystified.

Is it possible to use RL esther based oil 5w-20 or 5w-30 on a Prius C engine? At least on paper it has the same model number as a 2009: 1nzfxe. According to the RL website, 5W-20 is almost the same weight as 0W-20 with a better noack value for the 5w-20.

 

Could you please elaborate the need for EGR service and the burning oil issue? I also have a Prius C, but have not seen any serious discussion on any C models.

 

Yes your engine will love Redline it will run really good on it.

 

>>Could you please elaborate the need for EGR service and the burning oil issue?<<<


Hello!

The Prius C 2014 only has 39K miles on it. Does not burn oil. It does make a sound at low speeds, hard for me to describe. It may be the valve train chatter or a "gentle misfire" that causes the gears in the transmission to clash and chatter. I still need to test how well the EGR valve seals.

The Prius C completely worn out the OEM FK16R-A8 Denso spark plugs and replaced them with NGK 96457 FR5BHX Ruthenium at about 35K miles, gaped to 0.9mm. That helped the noise for a while. The NGK plugs are holding their ground. Lucios garage made a video showing how a misfire sounds... that is a good reference although my C makes a far more quieter sound that is kind of similar. The sound is stronger when the gas tank is almost empty. NO error codes so far, even when the C had the worn out plugs.

On another note: I had 4 WS quarts and just replaced the oil two weeks ago. Oil went out just black. You can use a 2009 drain plug that has a magnet, to swap out the C drain plug without a magnet. A drain plug with a magnet always helps. Next WS type oil change for the 09 & 14 will be D6, searching for a low price as much as possible and will store the quarts as usual lol.

 

[QUOTE="Yes your engine will love Redline it will run really good on it.[/QUOTE]

For the Prius C, do you think a 0w-30 could work? Any suggestions?

 

Don't know your Prius C history, but 35k mile spark plug life seems too short. I think the owner's manual recommends to replace spark plugs at 150k miles.

As far as engine oil grade is concerned, 0w-30 is probably OK, but I won't use it. Again the owner's manual calls for 0w-20, where 20 is the viscosity at operating temperature, which determines the hydrodynamic oil film thickness in crucial contact areas such as the crankshaft and main bearings.

 

20 weight oil came out for thing and one thing only that’s to be more fuel efficient.

Temperatures cars see now especially in California will appreciate a slightly thicker oil and since it’s an atkisson motor with solid lifters will really like the zddp package in Redline oil for instance,

Redline is a significant improvement in lubrication so much so you can feel and hear the improvement. That’s why it’s $10 a quart.

You can use a 0-30 but if the car sees no winter a 5 or 10-30 will be perfect.