New traction battery options in Seattle / Portland area?

why not buy the new one, and return the core for credit later. we seem to be hearing about more dealers reluctant to sell batteries, seems to me you should be able to buy it like any part.

 

Yeah could be pressure tactic. I know the urge is to push back when shoved, but does the warranty duration get reduced if you install? Food for thought?

 

I think that's correct. Maybe talk to that other dealership some more, if practical, or drop hints with the "goons" that you're likely going to shop elsewhere if they don't get on the ball?

If getting dealership install bumps the warranty from one year to three: there's a couple advantages:

1. Two years, lol.
2. No muss, no fuss, no core deposit, no debates about what's included, and the onous is completely on the dealership to get it right.

With their behavior to date though, you might be better off with that other dealership. They don't sound too competent and/or honest.

 

There's no cutting off wires....don't do it

Return the battery complete pack MINUS:


Electronics bay and everything in it including safety plug wires.

Main (+)(-) leads

Rubber vent hosts and white plastic union

TOP air damn that holds the inlet temperature wire.

 

Nope. All different prices and all different skill sets.

Wanted a key made for a GM car and prices varied from $40 to $100 at different dealerships.

Took a diesel that had a fuel pressure code to Ford figuring they are the best....they wasted a $120 diagnosis hour and came back like robots with a checklist of what their computer tells them to do:

First we check this.
Then we replace all the injectors (that is a multi-thousand dollar repair FYI)
Then we replace injection pump (another multi-thousand dollar repair)
Then we check the fuel lines

It was the most idiotic thing. A good diesel tech would figure it out without ripping you off and unnecessarily replacing good parts.

I'm sure a different Ford dealership perhaps would have pinpointed problem in an hour.

 

fish rots from the head down.

 

There are specific new parts that come with the pack. Use all of them.
Note the difference in the specific nuts they supply. They go in specific places.

Given each them all the old parts you remove. Positive cable. Negative cable.
Old nuts that were replaced with new
Fuse holder. Associated nuts. Be sure to put the rubber mats in place to cover the terminals before closing the lid.. Make sure the mats do not block the mounting holes. Wrap the end connectors in plastic bag and secure. Just like the new core you were given. Supply the VIN, year, model, and odometer reading that core came out of.