New HV battery and doesn't run

Doubtful that hardware device is compatible with techstream (dealer diagnostic software), which app are you using if not techstream?

 

What company? Some readers don't speak Hybrid. At the budget end, this one always works for me.

 

Never heard of that app before, mustn't be very useful with a hybrid.

Since you mentioned "app store" we will assume that you're using an iPhone, before shipping it off to the shop, try a copy of Dr Prius at : ‎Dr. Prius / Dr. Hybrid on the App Store

 

SFO recommendation is your best bet. I didn't realize you were IOS.

 

The code reader is fine, assuming the iPhone is compatible. The "recommended app" may be the issue, so give Dr Prius a shot.

Maybe another iOS user can recommend another app that is known to work?

 

This is killin me...........

I want to help but just don't know where to begin..Guess I need to find the first thread.....

 

Well I am not sure. After answering many emails back and forth while out of town over the weekend at all hours, and him admittedly not reading the instructions until most of the way through, I am not sure what more I can do to help diagnose.I am glad he made a thread to crowdsource suggestions.

If the car will not READY, there is a basic fault. Most likely the safety disconnect. As I mentioned many times, and everyone here has mentioned too, it is tricky to get in correctly. It can look and feel like it is seated properly, and it isn't. That's the first step.

Then the next most obvious "whoops" is just forgetting to reconnect all the little wiring harnesses inside the battery for the ECUs and then the 12v battery. Our instructions do specify to disconnect the 12v battery, so you will need to press the power button multiple times for it to come up.

Since none of that is happening and just a whir or buzzing sound, it seems like the relays in the back aren't kicking on. Could be a low 12v battery, missing a 12v connector (there are 2 back there remember), missing a basic ECU connection so the car doesn't start up because it knows there's a problem.

Looking at the images of the installation that were sent over, everything in the frame of the picture looks good enough.

The fact that there are no codes stored at all, yet it won't READY, says to me it's something basic. If there was a HV Isolation fault for example and that was the reason the relays wouldn't click over, that 100% stores a code in the HV ECU.

 

Are the harness's tested for continuity before shipping?

 

They are tested at the factory. We don't test them again before shipping. It has happened a few times where during torquing of the bolt into the module with the bus bar and wiring harness, people use a power tool and when the sense wire isn't held stationary it then spins around the bolt, sometimes snapping. One reason we do not recommend power tools for that, at least not the actually tightening process. But people gonna do, what people gonna do. :/

But if that were the case, you could disconnect the sense wire from a block and the car would start. You would get an error about a block being too low in voltage (code stored in HV ECU), but the car would READY, the battery would charge, and the car would even drive.

 

I'd recommend against sending the car to a shop unless you're OK with the additional expense. If you can find an independent hybrid mechanic, maybe that would be best. But if you take it to a dealer, they aren't going to really have any better clue than you, and will charge you for it. We don't accept returns on installed equipment for obvious reasons.

 

I hope it isn't a harness issue. The replacement was a little tight inserted at the bottom of the tray. I think the OEM is a touch longer.

 

Your post #21 in this thread shows a dashful of lights plus the Hybrid System Problem icon on the MFD. So, there must be codes.