If you can find the shop that still has the original safety Kleene green solution. That is the stuff although it's not been available for some time you cannot put your hands in it It will eat them up but boy does it clean metal parts come out silver and beautiful. Of course regulations took that cleaner out of the business safety clean is still in business but that fluid that they use there's no longer they've had to go green and what have you like all the laundry detergent brands and everything else now you're not allowed to clean.
Looks like I should wait for thr pcv valve then. I'm not too concerned with having a very clean manifold ill give a good brushing but that will be it. What I really care for are clogs in the egr ports and pipe. By the way, this all preventative, the car runs perfectly fine, just wanna take care of any potential problems.
There's a typo in that link (reported just now); the correct name for the product I used and recommend for cleaning the cooler is: Oxi-Cleaner Versatile Stain Remover That's the way to do it. A lot of people do the opposite, leave it past 100K, 150K, and then go on a cleaning spree, when the cold-start shakes start. Trying to turn back the clock.
Can anyone here source the bracket for the OCC used in Nutzabiutbolts YouTube vid? I knows there's many ways to attach these but I'd like to follow his tutorial if possible. I don't have a 3d printer.
Lots of ways to cobble a bracket. Here’s what I used (with single can), needing an L-shape bracket for on top of lower cross beam. I just added slots up to the edge, so I don’t need to fully remove mounting bolts, just loosen, then lift the can up and off.
I would think online automotive tank mounting brackets. The jig Mendel bent and drilled up is great type of thing . I think online you'd be able to find similar to that and many colors made out of aluminum blah blah blah just because that's why a lot of this stuff exists just because.
Legitimate Denso plugs were $8.95 apiece (plus shipping) from McGeorge Toyota when I ordered them in July. Any lower prices are likely counterfeits, especially if from e-bay.
Well couldn't get any real work done so I decided to replace the headlights and wrap the spoiler and give it a good wax.
Alright guys, I added the the occ and pulled the manifold to see how clogged the egr ports were, not bad at all, didn't even bother trying to clean them. The egr pipe wasn't clogged at all either. I didn't pull the egr or the cooler but I think it's safe to assume they're OK too. I replaced the PCV valve and the plugs, put everything back together and it threw 2 codes - P0102 and P0113. I rechecked everything and noticed I hadn't reconnected the maf sensor, I reconnected and cleared the codes but they keep showing up on the Dr prius app using a wireless obd. They don't show up on the dash as a check engine light (drove it around 5 miles) and they don't show up on my wired obd reader. Do I need to drive a good amount for those to clear from the Dr prius app?
I powered up with my MAF sensor unplugged once, and I put up with a P0102 permanent code for something like a year before Elektroingenieur kindly posted the confirmation driving steps that weren't in the edition of the repair manual I was looking at. (Another reason it's good to look at the repair manual online: always up to date. Toyota Service Information and Where To Find It | PriusChat) As it turned out, the day Elektroingenieur posted that was a few days after I had made a long drive out of town where I happened to hit all the right conditions in the confirmation pattern, so the code had just cleared itself by the day I read his post. If it hadn't been for the pandemic. it wouldn't have taken me nearly as long to make a drive that hit the right conditions.
If you're talking about the intake manifold EGR passages, it looks like there's a light shining in, at the EGR entrance.