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New codes for old part deu

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by Dirk, Jul 30, 2011.

  1. Dirk

    Dirk New Member

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    That's what I did. Disconnected at the rail and ran the fuel pump with a hose on the line to a gas can using the software to run the pump. I did that intermittently until the tank was sending bubbles.

    I'm not sure about the theory on a fail safe mode as there is NO pop even minutely (as if the ignition was off during cranking) until the main battery light hits the screen, and then the engine fires up as if a switch had been thrown.

    And on a side note, I really don't like the thing at the left that says I have no "package"! :D
     
  2. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    Go into your profile and change it to #9 -- or Adv. Technology :eek:


    In another thread, adric22 mentioned that the ICE would spin but not start if the HV battery was at too low SoC. Have you tried putting close to a full charge into the battery? Does the ECM look for a particular RPM before opening fuel injectors?

    All I can think, along the lines of a failsafe theory, is that when the HV battery codes, the ECM ignores information coming in (such as RPM, MAF) and opens everything up to make sure that the engine stays running. Of course, once in this state, it can't charge the HV battery due to the code. You have to clear the code and turn the car off to reset the system main relay. Catch-22.

    You are soooo close to figuring this out. I wish you were close by.
     
  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Does that mean the SMR opens when the code is displayed? (I would think even if the ECM begins injecting fuel at that instant, it would be touch and go whether the engine starts if the cranking power has just dropped out.)

    I wonder if it's possible to send a 'clear codes' while the ICE is running, and see whether charging resumes. Maybe the OP has already tried it. Long shot, but the sort of thing I might try anyway.

    -Chap
     
  4. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    That's what happens on Gen II, relays pop open and even a code reset will not close them again while the car is running. Can't say for certainty that it is the same on the Gen I SMR.
     
  5. Dirk

    Dirk New Member

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    Thanks for the info on changing my package. :p

    There is no question that the injectors are not firing during the cranking, but cut in when the error occurs. It happens instantly, and is repeatable. So, why would the system inhibit the injectors and not the cranking if SOC was an issue?

    Sigh
     
  6. Dirk

    Dirk New Member

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    I was ahead of you and tried that theory. The code cleared but the display showed no charging

    Some sort of system is shut down while this car is cranking. With a good charge it will crank for 10 seconds and error out with the usual no start codes. I can do this over and over with out a single pop. When the battery gets low, It will fire as soon as the error occurs.

    What would be considered a healthy state of charge?
     
  7. Dirk

    Dirk New Member

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    I checked the DTC and it's P3000 data 389. Which says the battery is bad.

    I find this hard to accept as the battery is 14.8-15.1 on the cels accept a few at 13.4

    I suppose it's another re-charge, but I need to figure out what is inhibiting the injectors.
     
  8. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    That is a difference of ~10% which is more than enough for the traction battery ECU to decide that you have a failed module within. There should be no more than 0.2V difference among the 38 modules.
     
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  9. Dirk

    Dirk New Member

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    Thanks Patric. Some numbers to go by is helpful. I'm doing a re-charge now should I assume to do a discharge on some to even things out once I do a survey of voltages?

    Any theory as to why the fuel system is disabled while trying to start? The voltages were fine and made even on the last charge, but it got low again from the attempts to start with the fuel system disabled. I need to figure that out before trying to start it again. As you know i takes a good bit of time to recharge these even at 4 cells at a time.
     
  10. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    To go further with the battery. If it is not strong enough, then it may not be able to spin the ICE fast enough to suit the ECM. It is possible that the ECM looks for a particular RPM to open the fuel injectors. Look at adric22's post here, maybe even pm him for advice.

    http://priuschat.com/forums/generat...s-will-start-run-30-seconds-then-stall-2.html

    A NiMH cell should hold 1.6V after a charge. Definitely, if one module reads 1V less than the rest, it has a bad cell and needs to be replaced. If you have battery modules that you suspect are bad, then it is worth replacing them. I think it is worthwhile to take that step before buying a fully refurbished battery from them (ReInvolt).
    01-03 Prius Battery Module 7.2 volt NIMH | eBay
     
  11. Dirk

    Dirk New Member

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    Sounds like what I've got going on. I wonder though if it would be a low volt, or low current issue. You would think the ECM would open the injectors to get the engine running so as not to drain the HV battery (if the battery was capable of spinning up the engine). Techstream showed 1250 RPM during cranking.
     
  12. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I agree that the engine ECU may have some logic within that prevents the injectors from being pulsed until the engine crankshaft rotation speed is sufficiently high.

    I think it is dangerous to attempt to charge the Prius traction battery to 1.6V per cell (which implies 9.6V for a Prius traction battery module.) 273.6V (or 7.2V per module) is the "nominal" voltage rating and I recall seeing ~320V when the battery was reasonably charged, when I owned my 2001. Hence, I would suggest no more than 8.4V per module or 1.4V per cell; while keeping the modules under compression to avoid their physical expansion and possible explosion.

    I also think that Dirk's battery has some failed modules that need to be replaced, I doubt that the discharging/recharging process will help them.
     
  13. Dirk

    Dirk New Member

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    I've done 8 modules, and they are charging to 8.29, and relaxing back to about 8.1.

    Is there info or rule of thumb as to what I would use to determine a bad module?
     
  14. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The "few" modules at 13.4V are likely to be bad.
     
  15. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    My bad, I meant 1.4V/cell, 8.4V per module, 16.8V per pair.
     
  16. Dirk

    Dirk New Member

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    I've just finished recharging the traction battery and all modules are 7.9-8.0. SOC reads 59.9. aux battery 13.7. It still won't start.

    Codes when it bails at the 10 second mark are 3191 and 3101 data 205.

    Does anyone have any firm information as to why the injectors are disabled?

    This has gone way beyond reasonable after 4 years.
     
  17. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    Dirk, I can't think of another case here that has been more perplexing. You've covered, I think, everything that can cause 3191: MAF, throttle body, low HV battery, bad fuel, spark plugs, coils, etc. By far, the most intriguing aspect is that the engine runs after a fail safe trigger. To me, this implies that some sensor is feeding the ECM garbage, but the fail safe causes the ECM to go back to pre-determined settings for e.g. the injector pulse width. If you pull up the freeze frame data, is there anything out of the ordinary?

    Is it possible that the injector pulses are too short rather than non-existent?
     
  18. Dirk

    Dirk New Member

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    I did screen captures of the FFD info, but am not sure in which section of the software I can monitor injector pulse.
     

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