Need advise on Transmission oil change and O2 sensor socket

Which coolant the Invert or Engine? You never said how many miles on the car but I bet alot. Both really easy. Hard part is jacking the car up. At least for me.

Take some coolant out of the invert reservoir and look at it in a clean clear glass and see how it looks. If its really cloudy it needs to be replaced. You can check the coolant with a hydrometer. But looking at it the same way is a good indicator. if you bought the car used I doubt its ever been changed.

 

Given the high milage, I highly doubt it has never been changed. If it was serviced by the local dealer when it was a taxi (and most taxi drivers here do do that), then it would have have both coolants changed regularly.

 

The biggest thing about changing coolant in both the engine and inverter is getting the air out.

The procedure for doing it sucks.

 

The Owner's Manual strongly cautions against using anything but Toyota ATF-WS. Considering it's something you're likely do just the once, I'd stick with the genuine fluid. FWIW, here I'm buying it for under $10 Canadian, per liter. Your price seems like robbery.

I think keep the outside diameter 16mm or less and you should be fine. I say "think" because I'm dealing with 3rd gen, and I believe 2nd gen fill and drain bolts are different. If anything, one is larger on the 2nd gen.

I would concur with filling from above with a funnel and hose extension; it is very simple. To get refill level right, have the car raised and level, and fill till it starts coming back out. Repair Manual instruction says to check after a drive I believe; I don't think that is necessary: just get it right, and torque the bolts (with fresh washers is best) to spec.

The 2nd gen Repair Manual doesn't appear to have a definitive instruction for Transaxle Fluid Change. There mention that the spec'd quantity at drain-and-fill is 4.0 liter. Also, I know for third gen, fill and drain bolt torque spec is 29 ft/lb.

 

Actually, unless the Canadian OM is worded differently, our manual says words to the effect of "Use Toyota ATF-WS or equivalent". The problem comes with working out what competitor product is equivalent, given there are no specifications of what Toyota ATF-WS is. The Penrite product the OP mentioned is claimed by the manufacturer to meet the requirements of Toyota and to be the equivalent to Toyota ATF-WS. EdtheFox has been using Redline D6 for the last 10 years and has had no problems with his transaxle. So, there you go, each to their own. (BTW, if we could get Toyota ATF-WS for under NZ$11.20 per litre we wouldn't be having this discussion. )

Yes, it is expensive, as are almost all imported products – welcome to our world. Freight costs, "they" tell us. The price we pay for living in an out of the way piece of paradise with a low population. Even Australia, with 5 times the population, just three hours west (by plane) doesn't get much better pricing. So go figure where the gouging is occurring.

 

Just purchased the parts today. It is about US $10 /liter at the local dealer. Do not forget to use two (2) new Aluminum washers.

 

I stand corrected. From the Australian 2nd gen Owner's Manual:



The 2nd gen North American manual (Canada and the US share a common manual, with a few variations noted) has the same "or equivalent" wording.

Then, with 3rd gen, both Australian and North American manuals change the message, saying only that anything else could cause damage. From the Australian 3nd gen Owner's Manual:

 

One of the pitfalls of owners of other generation/models posting in Gen 2 forums. It behoves the poster to check the accuracy of the information posted.