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mystery DTC, car starts but wont go into drive or reverse

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by RobRolls, May 28, 2011.

  1. andyprius

    andyprius Senior Member

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    It may also be possible to fabricate that frame wire with a cheaper source, elec supply store, hardware store etc. As long as the current carrying capability is the same or more. That is a shielded wire? That is a outrageously expensive 10 Ft, 100 Ampere wire, is it made out of gold? If I am reading the source you incuded correctly, pulling a new wire thru that enclosed protective covering should be really simple. In pulling the defective cable out ( leaving a tail to reinstall ) you may find only a small shorted area which could be repaired.
     
  2. epoch_time

    epoch_time Active Member

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    All you really need to do is cut the shorted shield portion from the unshorted shield portion. The location to do this would be two to three inches back from the center conductors eyelet..Meter the cable as you origanally did to insure shield is no longer shorted to center conductor.Then after you have isolated (cut) the shorted portion of the shield ( the melted portion) . Unweave the good shielding so that you have an inch or two of good shield wire, Twist the unweaved shield wire into one thick wire. Insert into crimp connector and crimp.. then add whatever length of wire needed to connect crimp to a new ground location. There is basicly no current passing through shield wire at all so the wire size your adding to the crimp connector isn't critical. just match new ground wire size to fit your crimp connector.. At the old ground portion where shield was shorted, isolate entire cable from that old ground point. as the old shield is still shorted to center conductor and must be isolated from ground permenently. The battery case should serve for your new ground connection as long as the battery case is bolted to the cars body ground. If it were my car I probably wouldn't even bother grounding the battery end of the melted cable as the cable should be grounded at the inverter end.. but the propper way would be to splice new ground wire and ground at a new location that way not to congest the old ground point.. Do not ground the old shield point becausee the old shield is still shorted to the center conductors eyelet.
     
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  3. andyprius

    andyprius Senior Member

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    That is some great advice, I wonder if the Ops still with us.:cheer2:
     
  4. RobRolls

    RobRolls Junior Member

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    Thanks for your detailed post epoch, I should have tried your advice.

    Unfortunately I had already picked up a wire harness from a local junk yard that does mostly toyota's. I had to search a bit, seems most yards just cut all the wires leading from the inverter when they pull the engine on a new arrival. Since no one had a 'fresh' car in I ended up getting a harness that had been sitting in the sun a while.

    I came to find out that the white plastic casing that surrounds the wires get a bit brittle in the sun. To sum up a long afternoon's entertainment I ended up rebuilding the harness from bits of my original one and bits of the new one.

    Getting the old one out and the new one in was a bit of a pain but nothing to bad. I believe it would have been MUCH easier your way epoch.

    Well it's been almost a week now and I've had no problems with the car since the repair. Thanks for all the assistance, and always remember to torque your HV battery terminals!!
     
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  5. andyprius

    andyprius Senior Member

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    Thanks for getting back to us, glad it all worked out.:cheer2: