My 2013 Uber vehicle died after making a loud noise.

The dealer has it. The service manager was optimistic that it would get looked at today.

I told my wife she could take the 2017 to work today. I need to retrieve my Dashcam from the 2013, so I can drive the 2017. I'll drive the rustbucket minivan that my wife doesn't feel safe in.

 

Do you have a connection to Wilmington DE? I grew up in Newark. Went to Saint Marks high school class of 79. UofD graduated '85.

 

Went to dealer to retrieve Uber things I forgot: Dash-cam, barf-bags, extra masks, charging cables,etc... When I was 10 minutes away, I got a call from the guy who is going to work on it, starting Monday Morning. I got there, and the car was in a work bay, but the technician was gone for the day.

It wasn't on the lift, and the hood was open. Strangely, the Air Intake was partially removed.

I also wanted the Bluetooth ODBII reader, which was not in the ODBII port, or anywhere in the car. Maybe the tech had to remove it to put the TechStream scan tool on it, and he put it someplace safe? Maybe I stuck the ODBII adapter in my pocket last night?

 

I have considered Scanguage, but it cost significantly more than an OBDII adapter, and I always have my phone mounted conveniently mounted at the end of the console. I have Techstream for detailed analysis, if I have the cable and my laptop available.

For continuous monitoring, I'd have to figure out where to mount it that isn't too kludgy looking. I do like idea of knowing the engine temperature. Toyota didn't take into account that people in cold climates use the engine temperature gauge to know when the engine is warm enough to turn on the heat.

I could go into a tirade about how stupid the algorithm behind pressing the "Auto" button, which never selects what I want, but I'll save that for another day.

 

I am not sure I understand completely. You believe the Inverter may be toast because of a High Voltage short, but that it might still be covered? Would a B1000 be consistent with an inverter failure? The only other code was a low signal error on the O2 sensor.

When I did my ICE cooling flush back in early July, the front of the car was already on jackstands on a driveway that has a slope. It was clear to me that the lowest point in the cooling system was to remove the coolant hose from the radiator in the exhaust pipe. By opening hoses high up in the system (and blowing air in them), I was able to remove at least 90% of the old coolant.

While I was removing that hose, I noticed the big Orange cable. That cable is approximately where I think the bang occurred. The Downstream O2 sensor is probably near there as well.

While I was waiting for AAA, I did notice one occasion where I saw 2 bars on the HV battery indicator, but the rest of the time it showed zero bars. Also, if I left the car off for about 5 minutes, and I pressed "start" the ICE would start for 20 seconds. After about 4 of these start attempts, nothing happened. If the Inverter was toast, would the ICE even turn over? I recall hearing an unusual whirring sound from somewhere near the ICE water pump, for the short period that the ICE ran. It was hard to isolate, because I had to press start with my foot on the brake, and jump out of the car, and get close enough to the noise before the ICE cut out.

Then there is seeing the my car in the service bay, when I went to fetch my Dashcam. The tech had called me at about 4:37PM to tell me that the car was in the bay, but no diagnosis would be available until Monday. I got there 15 minutes later, and he had left for the day. The hood was up, and it appeared that he had removed some air intake components to gain access to the same area I heard the strange whirring.

He must have removed my ELM327 adapter, and placed it somewhere that we could not find. I needed it last night, as my wife is now driving our POS 2001 minivan to work. This morning, I discovered that the van needs a water pump. My wife was late to work, and I won't be Ubering this weekend.

 

...But no way to take a screenshot, or button to push to email the results to myself. I already have a phone and a dashcam that I need for my work. Another device that is there all the time just adds more wire clutter. I would rather use my Laptop and Techstream when issues arise.

What I did learn is that my ELM327 adapter is a pretty basic version I got on Amazon. It is fine for my Chrysler vehicles, but I may need to upgrade to get the complicated data out of a Prius. For example, Torque Pro could only see the B1000 code, without the additional code.

 

I hadn't even tried it that way. I always assume that Auto is going to do something I don't want. In winter I don't press the "auto" button until I think the car is warm enough. Then I change whatever it selects for fan speed, and where the air should come out. Then I put the recirculate on.

My beef with the "Auto" button has more to do with AC. It always chooses a fan speed that is way faster than what I want. I primarily want dehumidification, which means slow fan + recirculate. I am also annoyed that as the night gets later, the system decides for me that it is cool enough outside to turn off recirculate, without letting me know. And finally, the "Off" button should be an "On/Off" button. If the hvac system is off, I should be able to press an "On/Off" button, and get the settings I had set the last time it was on.

I am waiting for that day that I press that "Auto" button, and I can say "wow, that is exactly what I wanted". Has not happened yet, not holding my breath either.

 

I forgot you were a Honda guy. IIRC you mentioning valve adjustments of the hard (non-hydraulic) valves. Been there. I bought so many 4 -5 year old Honda Accord 5 speed hatchbacks, and then I drove them into the ground. My vanity tag was "HONDENT". I glued the letters "ian" over the "LX" so that it read "Accordian". You have to guess what car emblem had the consecutive letters "ian".

I miss the slide levers:

- Lever to control how much hot coolant went into the heater core (Left cold, Right Hot)
- Lever to control where the air came out with detents. Defrost was at one end, vent was at the other, and floor was a detent in the middle. IIRC there were 5 detent positions that you mentioned above, and you could blend in between them.
- Lever (or knob) for fan speed.
- Separate AC switch
- Separate Fresh / Recirc switch.​

You could adjust all of these controls by the braille method. By that I mean you could reach over and make adjustments without looking at them. When I become an eccentric old man, I will find a 1981 Accord-LX hatchback 5 speed to restore. Wait, I am already an eccentric old man, I meant a rich eccentric old man.