MouseProofing the Prius

Thanks -- the cowl looks pretty straightforward.

But your earlier post was saying that the wiper MOTORS had to come out. Welchdog was suggesting just the cowl. I was wondering your thought on that (whether there sufficient access from just the cowl and not the motors)? I think I could handle the cowl removal but motors seem to make the job exponentially harder so that is my primary question.

Also, how difficult did you find the engine air intake snorkel removal? The Nutz and Boltz video is pretty long (and dark). How would you rate the difficulty of that job?

 

Pretty sure the wipers, linkage and motor has to come out to get to the cowl. The @NutzAboutBolts video for spark plug change (linked in same location) explains it very well.

Very easy. In aforementioned EGR pipe cleaning video, you're only dealing with the plastic bits removal, about 5~10 minutes. This is what needs meshing:

 

Here's a picture of our Prius hatchback cabin intake filter area screened off. Used self tapping screws.

Hint, I used a drop of gear oil on the tip of the screws and went at it with lower speed. Helps to use a screw bit that holds the screw onto the bit with a sleeve over the head of the screw as well as being magnetic. Also, it'll help to use a nail set punch to make an indentation where you want to start drilling, because the screw will slip and wander over the otherwise smooth surface. You'll be drilling at awkward angles, in tight spaces too. Oh, the whole windshield cowling has to come off, the motor too, because you have to take the windshield wiper motor off to remove the cowling.

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I thought I'd post my data point for people in the future who have this issue and stumble on this thread. My cabin air filter looked even worse than those in this thread. Mr. Mouse was probably just a couple munches away from falling through and getting impaled on the fan. Got this just in time.

I thought these instructions were pretty good on removing the top cowl cover:

The opening is just below the passenger's side windshield. You'll have to bend down to see it.

I really didn't want to remove the wiper motor like many posts indicate. Seems like that would be an extra layer of complexity that I wanted to avoid. I was able to complete this without removing the windshield motors, only the top cowl cover.

Fitting the screen to the opening was easy. The problem comes with attaching the screen to the opening as there is very little room to work. Perhaps there is more if you remove the wiper motor and other wall, but I wanted to avoid that.

There's really not enough room to use a power drill and the self-tapping screws. Solution: use a small drill, like a Dremel. Drill pilot holes, then hand screw in the self-tapping screws. The top row absolutely requires this; you might be able use your regular drill on the lower row, depending on the size of your drill.

Three hands help, as you'll want the area lit with a flashlight (one hand), hold the drill (second hand) and inserting the screw (third hand).

Total time about 60-90 minutes.

 

Good idea using a dremel. Believe the std shank size is 1/8”, which is about right for #8 screw into sheet metal.

 

The engine air filter looked pristine, but now that I have evicted Mr. Mouse and blocked him from the cabin filter area, I should block that area next.

So exactly what am I looking at here? Obviously, engine air snorkel, but whereabouts on the schematic of the entire assembly?

Wire twists were used instead of screws, why?





schematic

 

I’m not sure follow. Are you asking where the engine air inlet is? If so:

 

Yep, thanks ML. I wasn't sure which end of the hose the screen went on.

Two questions, since you are the expert Mouse Man

1. I see that you used wire to attach, rather than screws -- any particular reason?

2. You also went on the interior of the hose, rather than wrapping over the top, like a lid. Is there an advantage to that?

I appreciate learning for your experience.

 

Not really. With plastic I don't think screws would hold that good. Bare copper wire "twist ties" are secure.

Less likely to snag on anything?

 

I went with the Mendel Leisk method. Couple of notes for those doing this in the future.

My snorkel was slightly different than ML's but basically the same. I seem to have a fabric area, where his is all plastic. To attach the screen, its easiest to take the snorkel off the car. There are two obvious bolts (highly torqued) on top. You also have to release where the hose attaches.

To do that, open the air box (two clips on the side), remove the air filter. Then reach in with the top of a flat-head screwdriver and pry on the single tab, while pulling on the snorkel from the outside. This is another situation where three hands helps.

I didn't have any copper or other wire, so I used zip ties. Probably good enough.



Thanks again, ML for all the help.

 

If that is 1/2 inch mesh, it might not be small enough to keep mice out.

I used 1/2 inch mesh, because that's what I had on hand, but I layered the mesh by folding it slightly offset so the holes were much smaller.

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I agree that 1/2-in would not be good. It's 1/4-in x 1/4-in.

Now we all wait for Mendel Leisk to do the openings in the rear so that we can follow his lead.

 

Yeah I should look at those; it looks awkward to do. Too, think cabin air intake is first priority.

 

This is great! does anyone do this commercially?
I'm personally unable
thanks!

 

Now I have major motivation to mouseproof my Prius v. We knew a few had got in and out, leaving droppings or chewing on kleenex. We tried to stay on top of the food crumbs, and not leaving the kleenex in the car. Recently though we had an awful smell, and eventually isolated it to behind the steering wheel. Here is a photo of the mouse's handiwork:


Can anyone suggest what I can replace the "dampening fabric" under the dashboard? Should it be heat resistant?

 

1. What did you do to ur Gen III Prius today???? | Page 205 | PriusChat
   
   Yikes. That was 9 years ago now. (But had the peace o' mind of having those screened off all these years..) I only finally got around to screening the main engine bay air intake around last year or so during some pandemic downtime and while finally doing the general air intake maintenance routine (PCV valve replacement, throttle body/air intake manifold cleaning, replacing those gaskets, EGR), but forgot to take pictures of it post screening which probably didn't matter since there're so many others here and mine looks the same. Although I don't remember if I screened two openings or just one.
   
2. Yes, that *is* some other air inlet/outlet under the front rh wheel well somewhere that also connects to the cabin air. When I get another chunk of time, I'm gonna try snaking my boroscope up there to get a better grasp on how vulnerable it is.
   
3. The firewall does have 6-7 openings but almost all of them are penetrations and filled with various system lines, like plumbing for coolant for hvac or the pedals, and not particularly vulnerable. The main entries to the cabin are just that air intake and whatever's going on in/behind the passenger wheel well from the bottom.
4. Engine air intake doesn't lead to the cabin (obviously, or should be). Screening it is to prevent rodents from getting to the engine air filter or nesting/clogging the resonator box, or whatever else. Not sure if they can reach/fit the mass airflow sensor, but not interested in finding out.

 

Over the weekend, I made good progress on the mouse proofing. I used 1/4" 23-gauge galvanized hardware cloth, attached with #8 1/2" self-tapping hex head screws. For most of the screws, I used the cordless driver, starting at low speed until a small divot was established, followed by high revs and more pressure behind the driver. For the back rh vent, I ended up pre-drilling holes with 1/8" cobalt bit, when I couldn't get the screws started on their own. I couldn't see any access holes through the firewall, since they all had some hoses or lines going through. I still need to look into the access from the passenger wheel well, perhaps when I do the seasonal tire switch.

 

Image upload is working again. I screened the rear vents from the inside, by bending the hardware cloth around the black part of the vent flaps. The battery had to come out to get the right side screwed down.

 

Egad! What a discovery! I feel for you. I quit worrying about noise. I removed that insulated shield under hood in my gen 2 to keep it more open and unattractive to the mice and never noticed the difference. Mouse had chewed a washer line and another mouse project was initiated. Hood hasn't melted yet either..haha.

 

Screened the hatch area vents, opted to do the outside: