Mechanics: what are your most common tools?

Usually if not in the machine shop I'm usually talking about bolts by their head sizes because it just seems the quickest way to discuss it rather than by thread pitch and thread diameter . Minor diameters and all that just doesn't seem to be necessary out in the field

 

The nominal thread diameter is a lot more important than the head size in determining the clamping force a bolt can apply, and the corresponding torque recommendation. If someone wants to refer to a bolt by its head size for convenience in giving instructions (This includes videos!), they should make clear they're NOT talking about bolt size.

 

But they won’t. When you’re working on a Japanese car, you think in bolt head dims, ditto for nuts. To pedantically mention thread diameters each time would be cargo cult. A disclaimer at the outset, virtually the same.

Im saying this cus I have my share of such sticking points.

 

I wasn't trying to imply one should list out the bolt size every time one refers to a bolt (or nut) by the head size. Just don't call it a 10-mm bolt, with no clarification, when it simply isn't. "10-mm-headed" or equivalent would suffice, as would your disclaimer.

 

since Jerry mentioned using the `1/2 in impact while around plastic substrate, I'm thinking it's the new tool syndrome and availability of sockets and adapters to use with the new tool. IMO as 3/8s 12 volt ratchet would be my choice for a slew of 10mm nuts and bolts. But I have neither, and with 3 speeds and a variable trigger, a new great tool with lots of sockets and adapters, I'd be using my investment in the tools to get as much experience with it as possible too, possibly.
I always take away what I can learn from the more experienced techs here, and have learned to take my lumps for mistakes I make, I also like to give my opinion about why as a less experienced tech I choose maybe not the best tool for the job at times, which happens to me more than I care to try to explain here.

 

One place (of many) you don’t want to snap a bolt head off; spark plug coil hold-down bolt.

 

One more thought: if you’ve gotta have one these (do-everything, mid-sized battery impacts), and doubly so if you’re inexperienced and in no rush, use it primarily for bolt/nut removal, and do installs by hand.

I think that’s where they shine, it’s half the battle, and less risky.

 

I agree, what I'm learning from Impact Torque Test channel

the lithium high, super high, and new Hercules ultra high torque lines work best in reverse

If interested be sure to check out the issues showing up with Milwaukee s new model of their Lithium High Torque model. The one I've wanted for several years before they came out with it's new model b.

Currently, I'm looking at either the new Ryobi High torque since i have a 9 Ah pack or two for it already, or the Hercules Ultra High which you can get a 12 Ah with 2170 cells pack for it ...

Also recommended by gasket masters in one of their videos, this one,

at the beginning in the list or tools used, it's the less expensive earthquake impact, I think. They also use dewalt and some other brands smaller impact showing up later in the video too.

 

That sounds like pressing kinda hard on the straw-man pedal ... I don't think anybody (else) here was talking about thread pitches, minor diameters, flank angles, or minutiae like that. Just the basic how big the bolt is.

When it comes to how hard you can twist on a bolt before the sucker breaks, the one most important thing is how big the bolt is. Not the head. The bolt. If someone's not clear on whether something's a 10mm or a 6mm bolt, they're gonna break stuff.

It is super easy to say "10mm head" if what you mean is 10mm head.

 

Strictly speaking, on a Toyota vehicle, the bolt would have been made to Toyota Engineering Standards rather than JIS B 1180 or B 1189, which anyway have been harmonized to follow the ISO series of widths across flats.

The traditional series (8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19 mm) found in every toolbox in Japan is specified today only in annexes to the JIS fastener standards, as a fascinating article about flanged bolt standards (PDF) from the SAEJ explains.

For decades, Toyota’s line of service hand tools omitted 15, 16, and 18 mm hex sizes; a few years ago, they relented and added them, presumably for fasteners used on Magna Steyr-made GR Supra models.

 

I don't usually look for hardness markings on the head of most bolts. I'd be interested to know if any of the standards use and or require them other than aircraft hardness grading on those bolt heads.

Geez, I would have forgotten about the one time a caliper pin spun while tightening the bolt. I was able to grab the Primes pin with a standard wrench. 17mm sounds right, but I've forgotten exactly since I don't have to grab pins to often. I'd memorize it if I had to hold pins all the time.

 

That tool of Jerry’s is a 1/4” drive, not 1/2” drive. But it’s a 20V tool, and from his description, it can loosen 100+ ft pound bolts, so it’s fairly powerful.

I have a 1/4”, 3/8” and 1/2” drive Milwaukee. The little 1/4” is my favorite. The 3/8” doesn’t do much for me, but a lot of people love it.

The 1/2” is fantastic for breaking bolts loose, for shock bolts, ball joint bolts, subframe bolts… anything 16mm and bigger.

But you have to be very careful using these tools to tighten. They’ll strip threads instantly. And Toyota doesn’t use eTorx, but never use a power tool to crack an eTorx, because they’re quite soft and it’s easy to shear the heads off. Then you’ll need to use a grinder and all the time you thought you were going to save is wasted.

 

[/QUOTE] Nice catch and my apology for not looking close enough at the dewalt.

I have some personal experience with stripping out the internal hex on the studs of honda s sway bar - stabilizer links. Getting my old parts back after having them previously replaced by a dealer was the only way to sus the actual method mechanics use to remove them since the hex socket in the stud is used to keep the lubed ball from spinning while tightening the new link onto the suspension.
I'm starting to feel like Capt. Obvious again, maybe it's time to take a another break...

 

Normally, when a technician or mechanic talks about what size is the nut, bolt, whatever...
they are talking about wrench size, not the thread part. Depending on the use of the bolt,
it could have different size wrench size. Doubtful you'd see a bolt with a 10mm wrench size
with 250ft#'s of torque.

 

My toolset has grown.

The Mini Cooper engine/suspension removal added a few more tools. My socket collection now includes a lot of impacts, and owning a BMW and a Mini Cooper means I need Torx and eTorx.

The ratchet collection's grown, too.

I bought a set of Snap-On tools, but it's only 3/8" shallow metric sockets and one ratchet. They're nice, but 8 sockets, a ratchet, breaker bar and three extensions was $160. And now, a set like that is over $500. So that's probably all the Snap-On I'll get, but it covers my most commonly used tools.

After that, I became enamored with Icon tools from Harbor Freight. My 30 year-old Sears Craftsman sockets and combination wrenches are still fine, but I added several Icon ratchets. they are excellent. And I added a set of Icon ratcheting combination wrenches, but I still use the Craftsman sometimes because I don't want to use the ratcheting combination wrench for high torque, like when I need to bang on the wrench with a hammer to loosen the bolt. I bought more pliers, but the only great ones are the Knipex pliers. They are the best!

I bought three Icon torque wrenches. Rebuilding the Mini Cooper suspension meant buying a huge 1/2" torque wrench, but that wrench makes it very easy to apply 100 to 150 foot pounds. But I also have a very small torque wrench, which is good for valve cover bolts and brake lines, among other things.

Oh, and I needed an engine hoist.

 

Wow.

 

I took a Mini Cooper my friend was willing to give away, and with $3,500 in parts, it's good as new, solid as a rock, and FAST. My son's got a car to get him through college. Clutch, engine, shocks, rebuilt suspension, tires, all-new brakes... For $3,500 and another $500 or so in tools, you can't beat it, especially in this crazy market.

 

Toyota's manuals explain a system of different numbers of pips on their nuts or bolt heads, indicating different strength classes.

You don't usually need to care, because most fasteners have torques shown in the repair manual specifically for the places they are used, and those specs take precedence over the generic torque tables.

So it's only in rare cases, where there isn't a torque spec for the specific use, that you would find the answer in the generic table toward the front of the repair manual, which gives generic torques according to the strength class and the size (not the wrench size).

Because that kind of depends on the technician or mechanic, it's best to be clear, and that usually doesn't take any extra work.

Just saying wrench size when you mean wrench size, the way you did just there, is a perfect way to do it. "Grab a 10mm socket and take out these five bolts here" would be just fine too.

 

Nifty! Now you can sell it and spend that money on your Prius!

 

I had the reverse problem. I had an older Makita 12v drill and I was using it to tighten lag screws into the studs for a flat panel TV. The motor developed enough torque to snap the internal drive shaft of the drill. That was an unexpected sad result.

JeffD