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Low Voltage in Rear Power Outlet

Discussion in 'Prime Technical Discussion' started by PiPLosAngeles, Nov 27, 2018.

  1. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    This dealer says the battery is fine and they're too busy to diagnose why low voltage on the 12V outlets. "Besides," service advisor says, "it's normal for voltage to drop when you're using power. The car is doing lots of things with that power and it can only supply so much."

    They were very dismissive and made it very clear that they were not interested in helping. This would be Crown Toyota in Ontario, CA.

    I had a sinking feeling this was going to turn into a battle with Toyota, and none of this experience so far is assuaging that fear. I won't even be able to lemon law the car if they don't fix it because it's not making the car undriveable.

    EDIT - The service advisor called and explained that Toyota warranty does not cover diagnostic labor, so if I want them to look into the problem it's going to be out of my own pocket. I guess I know what dealer I'm never going to for service.
     
    #21 PiPLosAngeles, Dec 1, 2018
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2018
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  2. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    I think I'd want to talk to the GM of that dealership and ask if he knows how his people are Bee eSs-ing his customers!
    It sounds to me like you do have a bad 12V battery, but unless it has almost a dead short inside, there's more to the story.
     
  3. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    Toyota dealer #1
    [​IMG]

    Toyota dealer #2
    [​IMG]

    Who to believe? <-- That's mostly rhetorical. If they'd even tried to load test the battery there's no way they'd have passed it. Even a $2 Harbor Freight multimeter shows the voltage counting down like a SpaceX launch when load is applied to the battery.
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    swing by AutoZone for a free load test
     
  5. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    Found this post that seems to confirm that behavior. Reading through the forums more it seems that low 12V battery is a common issue with the Prime.
     
    #25 PiPLosAngeles, Dec 3, 2018
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2018
  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    that is an interesting thread. couple things stand out:

    o/p has some aftermarket electronics

    conclusion is that evse charges the 12v at the same time as the hybrid battery, which i believe more recent threads have disproven
     
  7. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    It is interesting to me that there are a half-dozen or so different threads I've come across where different people report that their brand new Prime's 12V battery is dead, or very low.
     
  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    yes, and it is problematic, trying to figure out if there was a bad batch, or a bad charging system.
     
  9. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    I suspect in my case that the battery just sat for way too long in the dealer lot. As I've been driving I've been having less and less low voltage "incidents." I suspect the battery is getting charged up over time. Perhaps the charging system is thrown off by a battery that's been discharged beyond a certain point.
     
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  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I wonder if a request for EV mode driving reduces the DC/DC output voltage, in order to conserve power by sending less of it to the aux battery.

    The PC thread I mainly remember when I want to know about possible aux battery charging current is the one by AHetaFan, who found currents that could exceed 40, even peak at 60 amps into a seriously discharged battery. But that was measured in a Gen 3, where the DC/DC output routinely exceeds 14.5 V.

    I recently had the chance to jump-start a Gen 2 whose owner had managed to discharge the aux battery all the way to doornail status (you recognize this when you attach your jumper's smart clamps and instead of telling you the polarity is correct or reversed, they light nothing at all).

    My usual practice would be to take a battery that dead right out of the car and resurrect it on a slow smart charger, but the circumstances weren't right, so I just went ahead and jumped it and let the Gen 2 recharge it as abruptly as it would. But out of curiosity, I put a clamp meter on it first, just to see how bad it got.

    Now, it seems the Gen 2 DC/DC output tops out at around 13.8 V, like Gen 1, and not like the 14.7 V or so of Gen 3. And that seems to make a big difference in the peak charge current, even into a really flat battery. Unlike the 40 to 60 amps measured by AHetaFan on the Gen 3, I saw a current no higher than 8 A into this Gen 2 battery. (That is higher than the recommended 4.5 A limit on the battery label, but not so much higher that it worried me much. It certainly isn't a speedy charge; I divided 8 amps into the amp-hour rating of the battery, then just locked the car doors in READY mode and left it that way all night.)

    Back to the possible reason the Prime might be doing this, if you set the converter output to 14.7 V and this results in a 40 amp aux battery charge current, why, that's over 3/4 horsepower. If dropping the voltage setpoint to 13.8 trims the charge current to 8 amps, that's only about 1/8 HP. Saves you over half a horse, maybe to squeeze out more EV range.

    -Chap
     
  11. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    for people who only drive once in awhile, i wonder if the might be the issue
     
  12. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    Well, the low voltage at the battery seems to have gone away. The problem is that the 12V outlets still show a voltage sag under load that is entirely consistent with a 10-foot run of 22AWG from the fuse box to the outlet. Here's the measurements:

    Open Circuit 13.5V
    0.5A 13.3V
    6.5A 11.4V


    While one outlet is experiencing the voltage sag, the other still reads 13.5V open circuit, so it's not dragging down the whole system. That means we know the problem is between the fusebox and the outlet.

    Now I need ideas for load testing that doesn't involve my inverter, so I can rule it out as a factor. I have already tried three different 12V plugs to rule that factor out. If the wire isn't really 22AWG or smaller, the only other thing I can think of would the that there's something wrong with the outlets themselves.

    The one thing that's confusing to me is that the voltage is variable. Sometimes it's 11.4V, and sometimes it's ~10.2. The multimeter shows it constantly fluctuating up and down.
     
    #32 PiPLosAngeles, Dec 4, 2018
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2018
  13. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    I have an idea: My inverter came with some cables that clamp directly to the battery. I can test the performance of the inverter and the voltage when directly connected to the battery to see if I get the same voltage sag, or not.
     
  14. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    Crap guys. I just realized why Toyota says to limit the use of the outlets to 120W. We all thought that meant a 10A load, but I think Toyota knows about the voltage sag. Guess how many amps are required to draw 120W of power from a 13.6V power source through a circuit with the resistance I'm seeing? It turns out that you'll need about 12.5A. Now doesn't it make sense that the outlets are fused for 15A? It just turns out that 12.5A is 83% of 15A. Does that number sound familiar? In electrical engineering it is common practice that fuses are limited to operating at a continuous current equal to 80% of their rated capacity.

    I really hope I'm wrong. If I'm not, it means the only fix is going to be rewiring the car. On the other hand, does anyone know if Toyota has technical specification on the minimum voltage of the 12V outlets?
     
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  15. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    Sorry for all the spam replying to myself, but I have an interesting update (to me anyway). The dealer called me today to let me know that they're still trying to get a battery, but that they are now being told they are on "national back order with no ETA."

    "Maybe there is something wrong with them," the service manager told me. Perhaps so.
     
  16. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    this fits well with all the dead battery threads and '12v volt charge with plug in?' threads
     
  17. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    Got a call from Toyota USA today: still no 12V battery anywhere in sight. Not sure how long to wait without the use of any 12V accessories before stepping up my insistence that they fix it immediately.
     
  18. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    have you searched on line and called corporate?
     
  19. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    That's amazing that in one of the largest metropolitan areas of the world, they can't find a battery for your car. It's not like it's a '48 Tucker or something.
     
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  20. ashton.agar

    ashton.agar New Member

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    There isn't anything that offers such a low cost of ownership.

    Toyota says it wanted the Prime to utilize the full benefits of a Plug-In Hybrid vehicle." Taking the tax credit, keeping the base price low and maximizing technology is a really effective way of doing that.

    let's will try same.