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Looks like some more Volt battery fires.

Discussion in 'Chevrolet Volt' started by Roadburner440, Nov 25, 2011.

  1. Roadburner440

    Roadburner440 Member

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    And in response to that picture:

    100_0262.jpg

    I wound up getting that partial melt from plugging it in to the Kill-A-Watt meter for a week straight.. Stupid on my part for ignoring their instructions.. Since I have been using the charge cord the way it was designed for I have not had any problems except that I do think the charge cord should not get hot to the touch (not to the point where you can't touch it, but I would like it to be cool on the surface). There is also a switch on the portable charge cord where you can kick down the amperage from 12 to 8 (increasing your charge time) and that does make the cord cooler. Finally got my L2 station installed so the portable cord will be taking a well deserved rest.
     
  2. cwerdna

    cwerdna Senior Member

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    Regarding the Volt's power cord, it's interesting that this news is coming out again now... it's not new, as the Yahoo article points out.

    Chevy Volt's 120v charging cable getting too hot? brought this up in July 2011. Cars.com Experiences First Chevy Volt Defect - KickingTires experienced this.

    Edmunds back then had issues too:
    2011 Chevrolet Volt: Sorry About That, Socket
    2011 Chevrolet Volt: New Charge Cord

    As a side note, I do wish the Leaf's 120 volt EVSE was switchable to a lower amperage. IIRC, it's not.
     
  3. Sergiospl

    Sergiospl Senior Member

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    I thought all the power cords were replaced by GM when the issue/complaints surfaced a few months ago.
     
  4. Roadburner440

    Roadburner440 Member

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    The original power cord issue with the MY2011 was GM used to small a gauge of wire (more than likely trying to save $$), and the actual cord itself was heating up & melting. It was also causing faults with the cars charging system causing it to not accept the charge. So some people were left without being able to charge the car at all till their replacement came in. This is why it is standard practice for MY2011 owners to order a backup 110 cord if they are not going to have a 240 charger installed...

    This issue is due to the plugs heating up from the resistance, causing the plug on the extension cord/splitter or what have you melting.. I will have to pull mine out of the car and take a photo. The only issue I had with it was when I ignored GM's instructions and plugged it into that meter. Not the cords fault, and not the meters fault but my own. It melted the face of the meter but not the charge cord plug. At first when I could not seperate them it looked like they had corroded together (impossible I thought, but was not sure). Was only when I got them seperated and saw the plastic burn marks that I realized what had happened. The book covers extension cords and other scenarios. I thought the meter would be fine and I was wrong. Again like I pointed out above GM gives you the ability to go from 12A to 8A if you are experiencing problems. This lengthens your charge time, but for Volt owners that are worried they do have recourse... If you are using the cord in an approved way, with a known good/grounded outlet you do not have anything to worry about.

    I would imagine the Leaf does not have the amperage option on their trickle charger because it already takes almost 20 hours or so to charge using it. I don't think many would be please knocking it down from 12 to 8 amps.
     
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  5. Roadburner440

    Roadburner440 Member

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    100_0263.jpg

    Here is my meter.. Obviously is on the return side or neutral as it is called by electricians.. So either the resistance in the lines gets to be to much for it generating a lot of heat, or what have you. Never had an issue as long as I use a regular outlet other than it getting slightly hot to the touch, but never hot enough to where I couldn't comftorably grab it.. This is the end result of my lapse in judgement though, and luckily did not damage the charge cord in the process.

    EDIT: Just thought I would clarify, the tool marks on the face of the meter are from me having to use a flat head screwdriver to pry it and the cord apart.. After the plastic melted it almost sealed them together. So the damage on the hot line side is from me trying to pry them apart.
     
  6. Sergiospl

    Sergiospl Senior Member

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    Chevy Volt charging not likely a cause of NC garage fire[​IMG] By Sebastian Blanco RSS feed
    Posted Dec 1st 2011 7:59PM



    While the crashed battery issue remains under investigation, the "Chevy Volt fire" that happened in North Carolina recently looks more and more like it was not caused by the car or the EVSE "charger." Representatives of Duke Energy and Progress Energy, which is helping run a test fleet of Volts that the burnt car was a part of, say it is once again safe to plug in. After the fire, the utilities recommended Volt owners not use their chargers while the cause was investigated. Now, a Duke Energy spokesperson told the Charlotte Observer, "We've notified customers they can continue using the charging stations if they want to. We don't believe the charging station caused the fire." In fact, the Siemens charger that was connected to the Volt at the time of the fire, "was charging normally even as the fire was going on. It was sending a warning: It's getting warmer, it's getting warmer," said a Progress Energy spokesman. A final report is due in early January.

    What is real is the damage the fire caused – $800,000 to a $1.5-million house – and its effect on the ongoing discussion about the safety of plug-in vehicles. Got something to contribute?


    News Source: Charlotte Observer


    Chevy Volt charging not likely a cause of NC garage fire


     
  7. direstraits71

    direstraits71 Member

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    What does the return prong on the back of the kill a watt look like? If that's clean it looks like a defective kill a watt front socket connector was the cause assuming your plug prong has no defect. As you say you didn't have a problem with the plug directly in an outlet. A bad connection causing high resistance between the socket on the kill a watt and the prong on your power cord would put heat right there and melt both. I assume the kill a watt didn't open up on the neutral line? You may be able to check that with an ohmmeter.
     
  8. Trollbait

    Trollbait It's a D&D thing

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    That scorched plug in the Yahoo photo was plugged in to an outlet multiplier and not directly into the wall. You know, the things we all learned in grade school not to make heavy use have or it might overload the outlet and start a fire. The additional male to female connection on the Kill-a-watt or one those plug extensions is enough additional resistance to cause problems with such a long time, high amperage draw.

    Perspective buyers need to be aware that using these chargers is like leaving the vacuum running for 3 to 4 hours, and not a table a lamp. After, running for 20 minutes a vacuum's cord will be warm.
     
  9. Sergiospl

    Sergiospl Senior Member

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    So, are Volt owners comfortable with charging while they go to sleep?
     
  10. austingreen

    austingreen Senior Member

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    They should be as long as they have it properely wired. I don't understand putting a killowatt inbetween the car and outlet more than once, or not having proper wiring in the garage. The two volt fires were when the volt was crashed in a lab then the battery sat and when a fire damaged battery sat for a long time. The other fires had other problems.
     
  11. Sergiospl

    Sergiospl Senior Member

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    Not sure but it was said here before that the charging cord, think it is a J1772, that come with the Volt would get hot and sometimes melt. Apparently, GM did replace some initially but not all.
     
  12. ursle

    ursle Gas miser

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    My last GM was an '01 Duramax, never drove it at night, the dimmer switch for the cabin light used to get (RED) hot to the touch when the lights were on, I avoided using it because I didn't want to go up in flames...

    Really

    Now I pull my horses with a Ford.

    Not saying there's anything wrong with a dimmer switch that causes a vehicle to ignite, not saying GM isn't a great company (They got a 50b$ loan for a company worth 15b$, what's wrong with that?) Just saying I'd rather drive a Ford, and survive:)
     
  13. austingreen

    austingreen Senior Member

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    That is definitely bad if they have defective cords in the field. AFAIK the cords haven't caused fires, but got too hot. A bigger problem seems to be wiring going to the outlet and proper breakers.
     
  14. Sergiospl

    Sergiospl Senior Member

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    I don't remember what Gwmort posted on the charging cord issue. Maybe they were all replaced and no longer an issue, but new headlines!

    Chevrolet Volt power cord emerges as next fire risk
     
  15. Roadburner440

    Roadburner440 Member

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    When all I had was the portable 120V cord I had no choice but to let it charge while I slept since it took that long for it to charge after I came home from work.. Granted probably the first week I had the car I did not sleep at all as I was constantly going in the garage we had and checking on it to make sure it wasn't on fire (I think the week we bought it was around the time the NC fire happened).. Since then I have not worried much. I did get concearned with the Kill-A-Watt meter issue where the plug melted to it, but that was my own fault for leaving it that way for a week straight to see an entire weeks worth of usage.... When plugged directly into an outlet I have had no issues at all, and that is plugging in at multiple locations... Now with the 240V charger I don't worry in the slightest... GM & SPX recommend 12 gauge wiring, and I went with 10 gauge. The proper 20 amp circuit breaker was used, and the first couple days I had it I checked the wires while it was charging to make sure there was no excess heat build up. So far my 240V charging experience is 100% better than the portable charge cord. It is fast, I do not worry about the heat issue, and plus I now have the portable cord in the trunk just in case I ever get the oppertunity to charge while out and about.
     
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  16. cwerdna

    cwerdna Senior Member

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    With the potential for plug melting due to heat, perhaps 120 volt EVSEs should have a temperature sensor in the plug itself to temporarily reduce or cut load in the event of overheating. All sorts of cheap consumer electronics, chips and motherboard have temp sensors in them now.

    Since this could lead to charging mysteries, it'd be nice if the EVSE had some sort of light or display to indicate that the cut/cutback happened and how many times since it was last plugged in...

    It could help prevent a fire and be a signal to replace the wall outlet or remove the cord/device in between the EVSE's plug and the wall.
     
  17. Roadburner440

    Roadburner440 Member

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    I really think the cord has some kind of protection built in as far as that goes.. When it was plugged in to the Kill-A-Watt the car did text me once or twice over the course of that week to inform me that "Charging was interupted, and I needed to check on the car." I would go out to the garage only to find that the car was charging and nothing obvious wrong. I think it would be easy though for GM to somehow integrate the charger in to Onstar and have the car send a text saying the cord has overheated (if it can communicate with the car in such a fashion).. The car does text me though if there is problems with it charging. It will also text/email me when it finishes charging, and if I forget to plug it in by a certain time (of your choice).
     
  18. gwmort

    gwmort Active Member

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    Old news, the GM-volt thread they cite as "recently" was lasted posted to in July. I'm actually the guy that burnt my wrist while winding it up (in like March).

    There was a problem with a lot of the very first 120v EVSE's. Everyone that complained of a problem got a new one, but they didn't do a straight recall and reissue. The new ones are more robust and there have been far fewer issues. As far as I know all of the 2012's shipped with the new unit.

    Separate note, I've been tripping the breaker a lot at work lately, I think the extra draw when the TMS comes on is more than the circuit can handle (plug was never believed to be very reliable before the Volt). I cut back to 9 amp setting and haven't had any problems.
     
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  19. Sergiospl

    Sergiospl Senior Member

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    GM Buys Batteries Less Volatile Than Volt
     
  20. drinnovation

    drinnovation EREV for EVER!

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    That aticle is not changing the volt its about the Spark and its is old new.. GM decided on A123 for new cars back in August and formal stated A123 was the supplier for the Spark back in October (google GM spark A123 Announcement)

    Your cited Bloomberg article is just trying to grab attention by linking an older decision to recent headlines.