Interior LED lighting

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(walt @ May 10 2006, 06:17 PM) [snapback]253222[/snapback]</div>

Wow.... Thanks Walt. As the first official response from a Prius installation, I'm happy to hear it! Glad you got those door units in OK. There's still a slight chance I can make these "drop into" the doors... but aren't those fixtures just crazy complicated?! Wow. I'm a bit worried about any "drop in" I make trying to wiggle out with all that door-slamming. Soldering them in is probably the best bet anyway.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(McShemp @ May 11 2006, 09:23 AM) [snapback]253521[/snapback]</div>

McShemp -

George, who IS Mr. TaskLED, is the EE friend that I work with on these things. So yes, TaskLED is a big part of what I'm doing here.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(benighted @ May 10 2006, 11:42 PM) [snapback]253351[/snapback]</div>

It isn't really a matter of "ease of making them" more a situation of trying to make them in the best, most durable and easy-to-install way. The front dome positions work well with a drop-in (would be difficult to solder those) while the door jobbies are difficult to design a drop-in for.

As it is right now, I've just sold out of the few modules that I had. Please let me know what you're interested in - I know you've been very patient and wanting these! I should be able to build a few more by next week. I'd like to reserve some for you!

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(McShemp @ May 11 2006, 02:54 PM) [snapback]253742[/snapback]</div>

Yeah, the parts are hard enough for US to come by. I think George bought his latest round of LEDs from me, actually!

You can certainly "throw my name around" - just make sure to really talk me up so he'll know I put you up to it. George is a great guy and will treat everybody right. We already sell this stuff at the minimum that just barely supports our hobby, so please don't expect huge discounts just for knowing me.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(benighted @ May 11 2006, 04:10 PM) [snapback]253773[/snapback]</div>

No problem at all. I just didn't want you thinking that I'd forgotten you because I know you've been wanting this stuff since I first brought it up.

LEDs are my hobby. Big fun, mostly. But the screw-ups and scrap are also very expensive!


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(parrot_lady @ May 11 2006, 04:43 PM) [snapback]253788[/snapback]</div>

Excellent. Then my work here is not in vain.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(benighted @ May 17 2006, 09:42 PM) [snapback]257337[/snapback]</div>

The reds are just more expensive for me, since I buy the whites in LARGE quantities and get a better discount (at the expense of carrying many thousands of dollars of inventory!). The reds I just buy onsies-twosies. I can make them for you in red, no problem. The bottom line is that they'll be $8 more each. Just let me know when you're ready to go. (please drop me an email: [email protected])

I've been thinking about using red for the doors myself. Would be an extra bit of safety on the road.

 

then you might still be ready before I am! I'm still short of the bulb bases that I adhere to the back for the front domes. I now finally have all the other bits though, and I'm busily building away in my "free" time.

I would have been ready this week but I got water in my poor Prius' gas tank, its at the dealer still getting flushed out... yet another setback but thats how it goes I guess. [/quote]
Aw, that sucks! Yet one more way that gas cars scare me. I have YET to get a bad tank of electrons in the EV. And I've never dripped any on my shoes.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(momanz @ May 18 2006, 07:10 AM) [snapback]257460[/snapback]</div>

I use Arctic Alumina Epoxy here or here. Not only does it hold better than anything else, it passes the heat to the board to use the circuit as an extra sink. Don't use silicone - that will insulate the star, and you'll smoke the the emitter before long.

If you only drive the Lux3 at 350mA, then there is no heat issue. But if you only drive it at 350mA, there is no reason to use a Lux3 which can handle much more power. If you put much more power to the Lux3, then you have a big heat issue. Now, you can probably see why I stick with using good Lux1's.

Red LEDs would probably be a better bet. Cheap too. Don't have to use the Lux's since you're not looking for "bright". You could get power from just about anywhere. Choose something from the interior fuse block that is only powered when the car is running, and tap in there. You can use the 12V outlet circuit. Add some resistor and a zener with some nice 5mm LEDs, and you're set for just a few bucks.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(momanz @ May 19 2006, 07:29 AM) [snapback]258020[/snapback]</div>

Ah... Yes I re-read your post a couple of times before answering, and it certainly sounded like you wanted to attach the circuit board to the Lux star with, "What kind of adhesive did you use to stick the driver board to the Lux?" I use the AA for all the adhesive work. Regular epoxy may work, but it'll get soft with heat, certainly.

Let me say again: A Lux3 will get NO hotter than a Lux1 when driven at the same current. The ONLY reason a Lux3 can get hotter is that it CAN be driven at a higher current than a Lux1. If they're both driven from the CC1W (350mA) then they will be the same temp.

You can still use the red Lux1's. They're just more than what you need. I usually buy my LEDs stright from Future or Nichia. I like to know exactly what I'm getting. There are TONS of places to buy discount LEDs on the net... including Ebay.