I'm in it now - Front wheel bearing/hub replacement

OK. Thanks.

 

One or twice with previous cars I've seen the pros just reuse the axle nut, turned slightly further, and indented at a fresh spot. I'm sure the manual says the nuts should be replaced, but...

 

Done!
This time it took me only 3 hours from start to finish....
Noise gone. All good....
Lesson learned:
1. You drive forward with moderate noise.
2. Noise increases when you turn LEFT
3. You turn RIGHT - noise stops.
______________________
Left Hub is bad.

 

Glad you got it worked out. I still have to do my left hub (replaced right hub already). My noise was horrendous when turning left, changed right hub and the majority of the noise was silenced. Normally it is the opposite of your quote, but obviously not in your case. Normally more pressure would be put on left side hub (increasing noise) when turning right. If you think about NASCAR, they sometimes only change right side tires because they are getting the most wear since they are only turning left.

 

Similar noise when turning right (banking right) at highways speeds. Not noticeable under 60mph....wheel bearing?

 

Also this noise started after driving with loose lug nuts at freeway speeds for half an hour. Warped rotor or wheel bearing I'm not sure....

 

Driving with lose lugs can damage brake disc. But it may correct itself just by driving. Unless there is something like sand trapped between disc and hub.

 

Ok I was hoping that was it. I'll try replacing the rotor.

 

REPLACED HUB/BEARINGS = NEW NOISEY

Started my Hub/Bearing replacement early Saturday (yesterday). Got the driver side done by evening. Or so I thought, that is until...

Well I tried reusing the nut. Could not get a good read on the Torque Wrench, said I hit 156 ft lbs, but had wobble. Backed the nut off and saw it pretty well chewed up the threads on the Axle. So friends, do as they recommend. Nobody evidently has this nut but the dealer.

Sunday Morning (today) off to Autozone who had a drivers-side half-shaft in stock, rented the slide hammer and a darn-near useless generic flange claw but managed to yank the old one with shear luck and determination. So yes, my all put together job was once again pulled partially apart, lost about 5 hours and 1.5 quarts of WS fluid. Found a fluid that claims to meet Toyota WS at NAPA and a zillion other makes requirements, replenished what was lost. (Will end up doing a CVT fluid change next weekend, I don't trust the claim).
Was NOT easy to get that new shaft popped into the trans. Finally resorted to rubber mallet and a couple whacks on the axle nut which I really didn't want to do to a brand new shaft. Oh well, shaft sounds like new! That o-ring popped in, and back to reassembly. This time, no bearing wobble, new threads and nut and 156 ft lbs did the trick.

18.95 broke my breaker-bar got another
15.45 2 qts "WS" wannabe
13.99 12 pt 30mm socket (remove OEM shaft nut)
14.99 6 pt 32mm socket (cause the replacement half-shaft's use these).
(45+20 for the hammer and claw, but that will be refunded on the Autozone tool lending program)
94.95 drivers-side half-shaft

SO it gets worse. I purchased new Rotors, Ceramic Pads, and Hub/Bearings from good old "Prime Choice". Great dealio cost-wise:
119.00 - no complaints on the pads and rotors. Got my new parts on! and test-drove just before dusk Sunday (a couple hours ago). Whole weekend devoted to this but even the local mechanic wanted over 375 labor so I had to do it. Another mechanic wanted 510, wouldn't want to even ask the dealer.

BUT here's my new problem and the reason I'm writing, the new bearings sound far worse than the old, OEM, with 350k+ miles (yep you read that right) on them! Sure I could hear the old ones, they'd been making a nice hum for years. And from the looks of the heat discolorations and how much better the front end handles now, I guess I should've done this long ago. But NOW that there is a brand new set of "Prime Choice" bearings on there, I apparently have an invisible 747 throttling up on my roof as I accelerate (you know that sound?). Yes it's even got the classic "louder when veering left" so you'd think the right bearing is worn kinda thing going on, not as prominent veering right but nice and loud in any direction including straight.

I'm posting this question, has anybody RnR'd their bearings only to hear more or louder noise, and sound like the new ones are bad already? Anybody use a lesser quality or "Prime Choice" units? Anything at all I could have missed that would quiet them up?

FOR THOSE ABOUT TO ROCK, WE SALUTE YOU:

Next, let me share what a PITA this process was. The drivers side I yanked the whole knuckle and beat the old hub out. The passenger side I left the knuckle in and did the pry method. Both required I remove the axle and then pry out the think dust shield, I tried 4 different 14mm sockets, no way to clear that thing. So I can tell you how it went using both methods. I think I'd leave the knuckle in from now on. You keep it bolted to the strut, you keep your tie-rod in tact, it's just as easy to remove the axle all the way out after only removing the two nuts & one bolt that holds the ball joint to the a-frame, you can pull the whole assembly outward and right and have full view and access to the 4 bolts and dust shield for alignment, etc. Trick is to unscrew all 4 bolts that hold the HUB, and place a small (no longer needed) extension, and a 14mm socket on the flanged head and give a few whacks to create just enough space to get your flat-head (or for you folks with real tools wedges) in there and work it. Took exactly the same amount of time to whack it out from behind on the removed driver side knuckle is it did to pry out on the passenger side. So the passenger side job went faster as less was removed/reinstalled. Passenger side has had the right drive-axle shaft replaced at 275k miles. It already had the new 32mm nut and the mechanic did NOT punch that indent down, so reusing THAT nut was absolutely no problem at all. But man did he over torque it. I broke my breaker-bar screw, bought an even longer one, and it still took maybe 45-60 minutes to break loose. Ultimately, It occurred to me that if I put one of my jack-stands right under the socket, it would eliminate and muscle being wasted and kept the socket squarely placed onto the nut that finally did the trick.

I'm sore. Muscles, back aches. Blisters from wrenching. Hope this helps any new DIYers.

DISCONNECT YOUR NEGATIVE TERMINAL IN THE TRUNK (well I didn't... but you should!)

Time was of the essence so, I pressed the "smart key" button under the steering wheel so that my key fob wouldn't kick my calipers out. AND I DID NOT open the door. Even doing just that WILL do it so just in case, I left the old brake pads PLUS a wedge of wood in the calipers when I wired them up to the strut spring, then no harm no foul IF it had a mind of it's own to apply hydraulic pressure.

I'm writing after literally spending every waking hour this weekend on this project and just got done so forgive the wordieness I'm brain drained... for those who skip to the last line: Any ideas why my brand new HUB/BEARINGS are so loud?

 

Assuming the axle nut is properly torqued and the replacement axle shaft has the correct dimensions, then it sounds like the new bearings are of inferior quality.

I personally avoid the use of aftermarket parts for this reason.

 

It's not the NEW one that loud, it's a passenger one that needs to go.
When I replaced first one on my Prius, I've had the same feeling - "It got louder than before"
No, it's not. It's the old one making it's own distinctive sound now.
Replace it.

 

Thanks gents. I think you are both right. Patrick, Autozone is $104 for one make, and $143 for another. Again I paid $119 for TWO rotors, TWO pair of ceramic pads, AND TWO Hub/Bearing assemblies. So I went cheap and must pay the price. GRAYtour, I think YOU are right in that it's the opposite of the usual clue (veer left and it gets noisy = PASSENGER side) but I put 300 miles on it today and all the noise sounds like it's coming from just the DRIVER side. So I agree, LEFT side is bad (New but damaged) And that IS the one that didn't get a proper torque, and a spin around that block, and had play. Yes Patrick, it's torqued and tight now, but I think that trip around the block when it wasn't, might have possibly done it in. Seller says it's under warranty, so going to try again, will pop right the heck out this time so easy labor.

 

Special tool 14mm socket that clears the darn round dust shield around the drive axle flange would be a bonus... anybody? The prying out and pounding back in of that thing causes a lot of extra time. And can only be done if axle is pushed all the way out of knuckle, which isn't necessary to pull the hub, just need the nut off.

 

Is this the same process that a Toyota Dealership would use to replace the Wheel Hub / Bearing? It looks like you took a lot of shortcuts by not removing the steering knuckle.

 

I just did my 2008. Remove the knuckle, it's a lot easier. Don't try to reuse the dust shield, get a new one. It pries out with a long screwdriver.

 

How did you install the new dust shield? Place a wood block over top and gentle tap with a rubber mallet?

 

exactly

 

I think I was quite careful to clean up the lip in the knuckle when I had it apart. There had been some corrosion between the knuckle and the shield. I wire brushed it out so that the new shield would go in easily.

 

I'm getting ready to change out both front wheel bearings on my 2006 Toyota Prius with 169K miles. I've decided to take your suggestion and purchased a used left / right knuckle assembly on eBay for $195 total. I plan on disassembling the used knuckle assemblies and rebuilding them with new wheel bearings and lower ball joints, creating "loaded" knuckles, similar to loaded calipers that brake shops often try and sell you. The idea here is to do most of the work in the comfort of my home, then replace the knuckle on the car with my rebuilt one. I think this will save time and for an added cost of $194, I think it's worth it. I'll provide pics once I receive all the parts and tools and begin the process.

 

I can see that this would potentially reduce vehicle downtime since you can load the used knuckle with the new bearing/hub and ball joint prior to raising up the car and taking the suspension apart. That is the only benefit that I see from having the additional knuckle assemblies on hand.