I AM SO ANGRY re: oil change!!!

One thing I've done over the years to save time is purchasing some plastic storage bins (the smaller ones) and creating a parts bin for each thing I do to the car (and motorcycle, in my case). I'll spend an extra $10-15 on tools, but the time savings over all the work not having to look for where I put a certain tool the last time I used it is worth it to me. Then of course, you label the plastic bin for what is inside.

I have a nice tool box that I purchased a few years ago to use as I needed it for tools. It's since become a "catch all" of tools that will cover almost all minor projects. I really need to get organized here, but that requires more expenses to get the materials (cabinets, shelves, etc).

 

The guys at the dealerships use "impact wrenches" to turn the lugs nuts. They do that because they are fast and easy. You can do the same if you like when removing them. However, you can also do it manually like edthefox5 suggested using a socket and cheater bar (EMT Pipe).

Someone else mentioned a four way wrench. You may find that tool useful to you in both loosening and tightening the lug nuts. Most guys will use the "push pull" method when using a 4 way. What that means is you pull on one side of the wrench while you push on the other side. If I were you, I would buy a click stop 1/2" drive torque wrench and a six point 13/16" - 1/2" drive socket. With that you should be able to set the wrench to the proper torque, and then tighten the nuts by pushing down until the wrench clicks. If you have doubt, get your friend to help you so you can see exactly what he does. Like Patrick said, tighten the nuts in a criss cross pattern.

Here's the link for a four way, there are more of them out there and you have probably seen them at Auto Zone.


Titan 22" HD Universal 4-way Lug Wrench


Don't fret the tightness thing. Just put your weight on it, and they should be good to go. If in doubt, have your friend check them for you after you have tightened them. (The one who helped you get the drain plug loose.)

Have a great day!

 

Watch out. If you are like me, your big yellow tool box will turn into a big garage with all kinds of cool toys.

 

It helps when you have the right tool for the job. Yes, they all cost money, but if it is something you can use for more than one thing or one job, it is well worth the investment.

 

Tools seem expensive, until you pay a dealer bill or two. Tool quality is a complicated topic since so much is made in China no matter which store wins your custom or the label on the tool. I tend to just buy at Harbor Freight with few exceptions.

 

Hi Julia. I'm just wondering what you used to raise (and support) your Prius during your recent oil change? It's very important to stay safe when working under a car. Never get under a car supported only by a jack. Even if it's a 5 ton hydraulic jack supporting only a fraction of it's rated load and it looks rock solid, the valve can still leak and, instead of falling suddenly, it will just crush you to death nice and slowly!

Once you get the hang of it, the Prius oil change is extremely easy. And it doesn't require much height, so I actually just drive my left front wheel onto a pair of 1.5 to 2" planks (staggered slightly so that the wheel only climbs 2" at a time). The planks lay solidly on the ground and are as wide as (or actually slightly wider than) the tires. So it's totally rock solid, a sumo-wrestler could do his worst and still not make it fall. Plus it's very fast, I just lay out the planks on my drive way and drive the wheel straight on. Ok this only gives my 3.5 to 4" of height but it's enough. It only takes me about 15 minutes to complete the oil change (plus about another 5 to 10 min to clean up).

 

cheap torque wrench: 1/2" Torque Wrench

socket: Socket, Impact, 1/2 Drive, 13/16 In, 6 Point - Impact Sockets - Sockets - 4AB67 : Grainger Industrial Supply

Look around at flea markets, garage sales, pawn shops etc. or go to Sears and buy the socket by itself. A 1/2" drive 13/16" socket is used with a 1/2" drive rachet, breaker bar, or torque wrench. It is used to tighten or loosen bolt heads that have a 13/16" size. The lug nuts on your Prius are 13/16". I hope that makes sense to you. Also, you don't need the "impact" type socket like the link above is. The links are examples for you.

If you don't want to spend money, skip the torque wrench/socket and just use the four way. It will be sufficient if you put your weight on it.

Ron (dorunron)

 

A set of ramps, and or jack stands and a floor jack can be had for not a lot of money (Harbor Freight). You will own them forever and will be glad you did. I have lots of tools. I love them all. Some I use often, some not so often. But they are there when I need them. Oh, and it has taken me 30+ years to acquire them.

 

Here's a link to a post I started on my experience with the Toyota dealer on tire rotations and proper tightening of the lug nuts.

Lug nut torques with first "tire rotation" | PriusChat

Maybe it was my intership with NASA in the early 1970's or my 40 years of engineering experience in the aircraft industry which includes 23 years of forensic investigations with the US DOJ.

I've see what can happen. That's maybe why I'm so careful. The standards that I see for service in the auto repair business is just NOT good enough for me.

 

Nah, I think it is your modesty.

 

Race Ramps are the best out there;

Here's an old thread that I started on them;

Race Ramps....They don't slide like Rhino Ramps... | PriusChat

 

Why does the dealer have to do the snow tires? Do you have the actual tires swapped on/off the wheels for the change? If you have them mounted on separate wheels, you can do the snow tire swap yourself.

I highly recommend doing the tire rotations yourself. If you get stuck somewhere with a flat tire, the ability to loosen the lug nuts and install the spare tire (although, you'd be using the cheap scissor jack that should be in the car) is worth that expense each time by itself, IMO. Especially since it always seems to happen on the coldest day in the dead of winter with it snowing, and you're low on fuel.

You don't have to go get these tools NOW. Make a list of what you need for each service you plan to do, and then when it gets closer to the time to do the maintenance, you can get those additional tools. Or you can get one item a month, and that makes it easier to budget for them. Or, find a friend that has some of these tools that you can borrow. Also, a floor jack, jack stands, etc, a lot of these tools are universal even if you get a different car. Yes, there are some exceptions (getting tools made for a car, then getting a monstrous SUV/Truck), but for the most part, these are tools you can use on future cars.

 

This thread has really gotten popular. Its amazing what happens when a "damsel in distress" shows up in a manly (mostly manly) forum. That being said, there is a lot of good info here. So, I'll add my two cents as well.

Julia,
It is true that you can spend a ton of money on tools (Lord knows I have). You do have to weigh how much you spend and how often you will use them. I'm with most on here in that I do my own oil changes/tire rotations b/c I want to know its been done right. I just can't stand the thought of anyone else working on my car.

As far as a breaker bar vice a pipe, I recommend the breaker bar for the mere fact that a ratchet's gears are not made for the high torque that can be placed on them by a pipe. If you really need that much torque to get a bolt off, use a pipe w/ a breaker bar. There's a good chance you can use a pipe on a rachet for many years but, the ratchet is not designed for that.

Here's what I use for tire rotations (see attached pics)

This is a Ryobi cordless impact wrench + torque limiting extensions w/ sockets (8-Piece Metric/SAE COLOR MATCH Car Wheel Socket Set) to fit all lug nuts. This eliminates the need for a 4 way and torque wrench and just really makes loosening and tightening the lug nuts easy. Using hand wrenches on lug nuts is tiresome and time consuming. This makes it easy and fast. Both can be had for about $200 if you shop around.

Hope this helps someone

 

+1 on this post, I agree about the cheater bar (pipe) on a ratchet is a no no, also the Ryobi with the torque limit is really the way to go. $200 is a lot, but it is worth it. Saves time, eliminates torque wrench, breaker bars, and fears of not getting lug nuts tight enough. Very similar to what the mechanics use. Over time, you will find the tool will pay for itself and can be used for more than one job.

Ron (dorunron)

 

As for jack placement, one must seach for a good placement that is unsprung. I always useth e recommendedjack points.Somebody else will address this exactly, perhaps. On loosening lug nuts, step on wrench when placed at 90/270 degrees (about parallel to ground. Hand loosen a all lug nuts on one side of car, that is after makingsurecar is in PARK and Emergency brakes ON. After car is raised on one side, tires just clearing, use two jack stands to sort of alleviate angst. They do not have to support the car. When you feel everything is stable, remove all lug nuts, remove tires, and switch them. One can work from a squat position, I find it easier to sit and straddle tire, this gives me enough leverage, along with my legs to install the tire, make sure holes are aligned. If floor clearance is minimal, slide the bottom of the tire under first or increase clearance . EASY, it is all technique. Note: Arm tightening of lug nuts is sufficient, stepping on the wrench is unnecessary. I just read the previous post, I think going out spending $200 on a special wrench is not needed in YOUR case. If one is to use this wrench often over a lifetime, it is probably worth it. Your choice .

 

I do tire rotation and swap between my winter and summer tires using the jack supplied with the spare. While not the most enjoyable to use, it has the requisite slit to fit the seam at the car's recommended lift points. Since I have two sets of wheels, this is possible (though annoying with a single jack). I keep a breaker bar in the car with an appropriately sized socket (which helped a lot when I had a flat recently - it's much easier to use than the tools for the spare tire). When I put wheels back on, I use a proper torque wrench (regularly calibrated). I refuse to use an impact wrench because I have a relatively expensive set of wheels and the lightweight lugnuts to go with them. You can damage your stuff if you want - no shortcuts for me.

 

That's why you use a "torque limiter" to "limit" the torque and cause zero damage. Statements like this, as if you're better than everyone else because you do it a certain way, add zero value to the conversation.