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How to add SKS to the hatch and passenger door on a 1 door SKS Gen III Prius

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Accessories and Modifications' started by BrettS, Feb 23, 2011.

  1. dopey423

    dopey423 New Member

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    yeah i ended up pulling back the bumper like you did. it was actually pretty difficult to pull out the bumper and required more force than i thought. even then, once the 2 clips of the bumper were out, my wrists were totally getting scraped by the bumper/dirt/etc that was down there.

    then there was the part of getting the 2 bolts from toyota on. i got the two you mentioned in the document, but they cannot be turned by finger. my bolts must have been painted over from the factory because after about 2 threads it stopped turning and i had to use some open ended 10mm wrenches. i was lucky enough to have a mini ratchet that would fit in the space, but it is pretty difficult.

    if i had to do this mod over again, i could shave off 2 hours. i think it can be done in about 4 hours by yourself, or 2 if you have someone helping you that can pop panels and work on the headliner/rear bumper while someone works on the front doors
     
  2. BrettS

    BrettS Active Member

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    Yeah, it did take a bit of force to get it out enough to work on it, but I think it was still faster than pulling the whole thing.

    That was exactly the same problem I had with the bolts I got from Lowes. I had assumed that they weren't quite the right size, but since you used the factory bolts then maybe it is the paint instead.

    I actually used a larger socket wrench that was long enough for the handle to come up and out the gap in the bumper where I was stretching it back... that way I didn't scrape my wrists or anything on the bumper.

    Yeah, practice and a helper could definitely speed things up. Maybe you and I should offer a service to do this on other's cars... you can take the west coast and I'll take the east coast;)
     
  3. wick1ert

    wick1ert Senior Member

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    I would LOVE to have this on the hatch. Not worried about the passenger door (I'm single!), but the hatch would be REALLY nice. Unfortunately, this looks to be a little more of a project than I really want to undertake at this point. Especially the running of all the wire, the taps, etc.

    Anyone closer up this way try this yet? Would be willing to pay a little $$ for install, but don't want to end up paying a separate place like $400+ to do this.

    Hmmm, I might be taking a cruise out of Port Canaveral later this year. Maybe I'll drive down and pay Brett to do this for me ;)
     
  4. BrettS

    BrettS Active Member

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    The hatch is definitely the most useful for me, however it's also the most difficult. If you do decide to do it, you may as well do the door too as it won't involve much more work and is useful occasionally.

    As far as the work goes there's nothing that's really involved or requires special tools or anything, it's just a pain as some of the spaces to work in are very small.

    Hehe... I wasn't really serious about starting a business, but if you or anyone else is in the area I'd be happy to help.
     
  5. dopey423

    dopey423 New Member

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    i am wondering if there is still a way to increase signal reception. i am not good with electronic circuitry, but maybe someone like pEEf knows if there is.
     
  6. pEEf

    pEEf Engineer - EV nut

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    Yes, this could be done, but it would not be an easy thing to implement, as it would require the addition of non-trivial circuitry.

    The cheapest/easiest would be to buy the 3-door SKS ECU.
     
  7. BrettS

    BrettS Active Member

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    Is the range loss caused by the impedance difference or the fact that there are more antennas? Or both?

    If we added a fourth antenna in a series-parallel configuration it would allow us to keep the impedance the same... Do you think that would help the range?
     
  8. pEEf

    pEEf Engineer - EV nut

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    Both!

    Adding a 4th would balance the power so all antennas had the same power, but it's still going to be less.

    The only other way would be to modify the SKS ECU to put out more power which is non-trivial.
     
  9. priusito_de_mi_vida

    priusito_de_mi_vida Junior Member

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    Hello. And thanks to all of you that made this mod possible, especially BrettS.

    Came with a pair of questions:

    I'm on the verge of order the parts.

    I'm only interested in the SKS for passenger door. Not for the hatch.

    So the parts i should order are:

    1) SKS enabled front door handle. 144.77$. (of course the same color part for my car color).

    2) Wiring harness for passenger door SKS handle. 37.55$.

    And anything else.

    Am i right?



    Another question:

    Since i won't install the SKS for rear hatch, i only need to tie the following wires:

    Pin 6, White wire with two black dots to the certification ECU Pin 18, black wire.

    Pin 7, White wire with two yellow dots to the certification ECU Pin 20, yellow wire.

    Pin 8, White wire with two red dots to the certification ECU Pin 4, red wire.

    Pin 20, White wire with two blue dots to the certification ECU Pin 32, light blue wire.

    Pin 21, White wire with two green dots to the certification ECU Pin 3, green wire.


    Is that correct?


    I think it is correct, but would like you to confirm before i cut the wires of the ECU.
    Regards.
     
  10. BrettS

    BrettS Active Member

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    This is correct. You'll still need a little bit of wire and some connectors, but you won't need the other parts, the diode, or the nuts.

    Yes, these are all correct.

    You could do it this way, however, if you do you would be connecting the antennas in parallel, which would lower the overall impedance as compared to the single stock antenna. When I was doing my original testing I did have two antennas connected this way and didn't have any problems, but it was only connected like this for 15 or 20 minutes. pEEf suggested at one point that it could damage the system to have a lower impedance, so this may not be ideal.

    Instead, what I would suggest doing is to cut the red wire on the certification ECU like I suggested in the document. Then connect the white wire with two red dots to one end of the cut red wire and the white wire with two green dots to the other end of the cut red wire. You won't connect anything to the green wire in the certification ECU. This will connect the antennas in series and will result in a higher impedance than the stock system. It will be a higher system than those of us connecting all three antennas, but I would think this should be OK.

    Note that you shouldn't cut any of the ECU wires, except for the red one if you use my suggestion above. The other wires should remain uncut and you should use wiretaps to connect the white wires with dots to them.

    hope this helps,
    Brett
     
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  11. priusito_de_mi_vida

    priusito_de_mi_vida Junior Member

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    Something like this?

    [​IMG]


    I think you used that connector to tie the wires:
    [​IMG]

    but i don't have it.

    I only have something like this:
    [​IMG]

    Then i think i should cut all the ECU wires except the green one, like this:

    [​IMG]

    One last question:
    Did you disconect the battery for doing the job, or it is not necessary?

    Regards.
     
  12. priusito_de_mi_vida

    priusito_de_mi_vida Junior Member

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    I went to buy the tapwires, so hope don't need to cut the ECU wires, except the red one:

    [​IMG]
     
  13. BrettS

    BrettS Active Member

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    Yes, that's correct.

    I did not disconnect the battery, however, it probably is safer to do so. That way you won't damage anything if you accidently short something.
     
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  14. BrettS

    BrettS Active Member

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    I think that's better. No sense to cut wires that you don't absolutely need to.
     
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  15. priusito_de_mi_vida

    priusito_de_mi_vida Junior Member

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    Hello. I can confirm the above code for the red one:

    [​IMG]


    Hope to begin installation soon.
     
  16. flareak

    flareak Fleet Captain

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    Do you think the front and rear door handles are the same? I wonder if you can have 5 door SKS...
     
  17. BrettS

    BrettS Active Member

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    I haven't tried it, but I believe that the handles are the same. There are at least one or two members here that do want to try to do 5 door SKS. The only caveat is the fact that the wiring harness won't be in place for the rear doors, so you'll have to run wires through the doors and into the car. Additionally, I would only try this on a car that originally came with 3 door SKS. Doing this mod for a car with 1 door SKS is already running three sensors on a system only designed for one. I suspect that running 5 sensors on a system designed for one could overload it.

    If you have a 3 door SKS car, however, then you could just tie each of the rear handles into the connections for each front handle and assuming you can run the wiring you should have no trouble.
     
  18. priusito_de_mi_vida

    priusito_de_mi_vida Junior Member

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    Just installed my SKS for passenger door only, following Bretts tutorial.

    Everything works PERFECT. So thanks again Bretts and others for your investigation.

    I did not notice any drop in detection range. And did not notice any drop in working response.

    Now some pics and advices.

    Both handles:

    [​IMG]

    My wires coming from door are not white with dots, are colored. Luckily the pin number still match with the tutorial ones.

    [​IMG]

    Some tapewires didn't work properly due to reduced room for making good connections. When i connected by the first time the open and close sensor didn't work. So i had to cut that ecu wires instead of use tapewires for all connections.

    [​IMG]

    I made a mistake during the installing of wire harness:

    Once i put the new handle in place i went too fast and the first thing i did was to plug the harness to the handle.



    Well. After did it, i found that drive the harness around the rail window was IMPOSSIBLE. The harness is reinforced with rigid plastic.

    So i came to the conclusion i had to remove the harness...but now i was unable to take it out from the handle! :eek: I didn't know how to do it.

    I tried to remove the handle...but now with the harness pluged to it...the handle didn't come out!

    It were panic moments.

    Finally i found the way to remove the harness from the handle. The black plastic part must be removed first at all. I was at the verge of broke the harness because i didn't know how to remove it.

    [​IMG]


    So know it: you must not plug the harness to the handle until the harness be in place. ;)

    But at the end everything went ok, and i very happy with the mod.

    Thanks again.
     
  19. BrettS

    BrettS Active Member

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    Glad to hear it's working for you:)
     
  20. dopey423

    dopey423 New Member

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    i had some panic moments with the handle also. i was trying to make the harness fit into the grooves that were already in place. i eventuall got it in but after an hour of cursing, and removing all the trim pieces of the handle itself. in the end it wasnt worth the trouble, but the trouble, but the mod itself was totally worth it