How obtain Techstream for brake fluid flush?

Thats a good point. I'll give you that. And you may have done alot more brake jobs then me but this forum is pretty whacky where people argue with you about changing the trans fluid at 30K but not about changing the brake fluid at 30K. Kinda silly because no matter how bad the brake fluid is it will still stop. And no matter how bad the fluid is it won't really harm anything unlike worn out cvt fluid which will get very expensive. So rubber debris in b fluid your way past caliper time. No big deal. Can't imagine how many miles has to be on a prius to see that though is my point.

So color me confused about this forum.

 

Mangoose works fine on Win 7. The M-VCI only works on XP - or at least, I couldn't get it to work on Win 7. I gave in an got a netbook when I only had the M-VCI.

@ manza I am willing to loan out the M-VCI for folks that want to try it before buying and waiting for shipping from China. All I ask is funds to at least ship it to you and a return in a decent time frame.

 

I'll give you that

 

The reason for vehicle flushing recommendations is to get rid of absorbed moisture which reduces the boiling point of the brake fluid. High levels of moisture will also corrode iron and aluminum brake components. But water absorption is a function of the climate in which the vehicle is used. So testing should be the best approach.

 

I think I'll do another flush at 60k and make a video with a go-pro for all of you.

 

Oh man. So confused. I was digging in thoroughly to do this myself. My brake fluid DEFinitely needs to be flushed (154k miles....never flushed. Mostly living in dry climate but 1.5 yrs in Houston area, so definite moisture in it). Anyway, after watching several videos and feeling pretty confident that a simple flush, without using Techstream, would be fine, I'm starting to wonder.

I was going to go ahead and get a VCI, but I don't even have a Windows computer....so that adds another layer of ridiculous to my preparing to do my own Techstream brake flush. (not to mention figuring out the software...and I know it might be handy as I go forward, but I've got a Scanguage for codes and such, and most other maintenance that's likely to be a DIY project for me isn't going to require techstream).

Sp my questions for anyone with any answers and advice:

a) Is the sequence: R rear / L front, then L rear / R front (because of the cross-connected lines allowing for failure of one side while retaining some balance of braking, if this were to happen, so flushing one cross-connected set of lines, then the other is best)?

b) If car is in "invalid" mode, and I just use the onboard brake pump to flush the system, is it adequate?

c) Any difference between DOT4 and DOT3 for our cars ?

d) Is there a significant benefit to using the Techstream system because it flushes a lot better / does other things to the traction control system/ABS/etc ?

I'm absolutely prepared to simply bite the bullet and have this done at the dealership but I've learned that taking things to the dealership often doesn't result in the best quality work being done, so I trust myself better. Nevertheless, with Mendel even saying he takes his to the dealership for this, I'm pretty open to having the brake flush done by them.

Input and answers anyone may have are much appreciated!

 

@Pete44, this is for the CT200? I’m not 100% sure, but if it’s the same as Gen 3 Prius, it’s eminently doable without Techstream; there’s a procedure in the Repair Manual.

Using that plus watching @NutzAboutBolts video, I’ve managed a couple of DIY fluid changes now, using simple tools, no mechanical suction, with a helper to push the brake pedal as needed.

In my signature, there’s a link to my previous post on 3rd Gen brake fluid change. If you’re on a phone turn it landscape to see the signature.

Regarding the mentioned video mentioned in above link, it’s #18 video here:

Nutz About Bolts Prius Maintenance Videos | PriusChat

The video has lots good tips, especially for applying brake pedal on for the fronts.

contrary to video, I didn’t use mechanical suction (just a baster at outset to siphon out reservoir) and followed the repair manual sequence: front/right, then go around counterclockwise.

 

If you are just replacing/flushing out the old fluid, you don't need any special equipment.
I would recommend a clear plastic hose with a rubber fitting to attach to the bleeder screw
after loosening it, then route it UP into a plastic container that is higher than the caliper.
So air won't get sucked back in.

Suck out as much brake fluid you can from the resivior, which won't be much. It doesn't really
matter which one you start with, but if you start at the front you can see the fluid go down and
fill it. DO NOT LET IT GO DRY! The drivers front is the shortest route and you'll get all the old
fluid out of the resivoir easier. When the clear line has changed from the old darker color, to the
clear new fluid color, you can do the other 3 much quicker.
The fronts you'll have to pump the brake pedal, the rears are electric, you'll only have to touch
the brake pedal and the motor will pump the fluid.

It would be easier to have someone to help do the pumping, and keep an eye on the resivior.

 

I have seen a YouTube video of the official process for flushing the brakes, with pumping the brake pedal 20 times, exercising extreme caution not to rotate the rotors, pressing dashboard buttons in the right sequence at the right times, etc. I found I was able to accomplish the task without all of that. I procured an extra set of bleeder screws, put a washer over the threads of each one up against the shoulder, and sealed the space between the washer and threads with pookie. A gasket went up against the washer. By removing a bleeder from each caliper one at a time and replacing it with a modified one, I was able to suck out all the old fluid using a hand vacuum pump, refilling the reservoir as necessary. At one point, I let the reservoir level get too low and introduced air into the system, but by refilling the reservoir and doing extra suctioning, I was able to get the air out as well. Without the modified bleeder screw, excess air goes past the threads of the standard bleeder and the vacuum pump pulls mostly leaked air and precious little brake fluid.

 

You just need a bleeder hose with a one way valve. They you can just pump the
brake pedal. You only have to open the bleeder valve a little, gravity keeps air from
getting sucked back in.
Since you let air into the master cylinder, you might have some in the abs system.
Brakes are the one thing you shouldn't go with "good enough" on. You put other at
risk when they fail....