Highest mileage and how do you drive

68k on my 2014. Drive 82 miles round trip each day. Tires rotated every 5k and replaced at 60k. Oil changed every 10k, by toyota for first 30k, by me since then with Mobil 0w-20. Trans Axle fluid changed at 50k. Beyond that so far only had to change engine air filter and cabin air filter. I drive very conservatively, almost all my commute is highway and I typically do about 65-70 mph while on it. Plan on changing trans axle fluid again at 100k, along with engine and inverter coolant.

 

I have only 67K on my 2010. 12V, front and rear brake pads, three out of four wheel hubs and I had to replace an exhaust heat shield last week. It has been a relatively cheap car to own compared to what my Volvo's have cost me in maintenance expenses over 36 years of owning them. I have to replace a timing belt and water pump on my 97 960 (118K) $335 parts (FCP Groton) and another $150-$200 labor to install in the next two or three months.

My Prius is still the best car I've ever owned based on my experience on over all cost of ownership.

 

wow brakes at 67k? I believe that is somewhat abnormal for a prius. Usually hear about them lasting 125k at least.

 

That thought occurred to me, too. But the Burgh is very hilly. Maybe that has to do with it.

 

The rear pads had to be replaced due to a stuck caliper, the fronts due to the hills around here.

Add to that the car is used 95% of the time for short trips under five miles.

 

2010 IV bought new and just rolled 200K with no repairs. still have factory brake pads and performed only scheduled maintenance (oil,inverter coolant and plugs) 4th set of Michelin Defenders. It does use about a quart of oil every 5K miles. Toyota says this is well within the limits. 90 percent hwy miles running 75-80. lifetime average 46.7 MPG in Missouri weather. Best car I have ever owned from low cost to operate and reliability perspective.

 

There is a 2013 for sale at Joseph Airport Toyota in Vandalia, OH for $11,150 (reduced from $13,000) with 260,000 miles. Purchased 5/22/13 with 7 miles and traded in on 6/1/17 with 259,210. Puts the miles at ~ 65,000 per year. Oh, and it's been in an accident. I would say this is overpriced, but that's just me. This would be one of the highest mileage ones I have seen for sale recently.

 

242,000 on mine and needs rear brakes soon. Pads and rotors. Winter was rough and caused a pad to seize and the slide bolt also got stuck. Was able to have it serviced and lubed but I don't think it will make it much longer. I didn't even drive in the worst storms, I took my winter beater (2003 Buick Regal w/ General Altimax Arctic tires)

Anways, still doing good at 242k overall!

 

Wow i wonder how much do you guys can rack up so many miles. I had my Prius in Feb 2014. It is 55k miles now. My round trip from home to work is like 70 miles. My trip to work in the morning is mostly 53 mpg. Going home is typically 58-60 computer mpg.

 

For those waiting for the brake pads to expire before servicing the brakes, get on it: get the calipers pulled off, pads and pins lubed. Schedule says 3 years or 30K miles for this.

 

I have a 2011 Prius with 253,000 miles. Most of those are commute miles with a mixture of 80+mph and crawling at a few mph in SF Bay Area traffic.

I've only had to do maintenance and fun items so far. Spark plugs, PCV valve, fluids (engine oil, gearbox, coolant, brake fluid) and a new intake manifold due to excessive gunking from the EGR issues. I decided after shoveling goop out with a 16" screwdriver that the updated design that wasn't 220,000 miles into life and had a
seemingly infinite amount of firm yet goopy sludge was a good move. Tires have been the major expense thus far.

As for fun items: TRD springs and rear sway bar with Koni shocks. A very good upgrade for driving the mountain roads in the Sierra Nevada (Hwy 50 and Monitor Pass).

I've yet to change pads or rotors for the brakes but those will get done within the month as the pads are a little low.

As for driving style: I'm fairly heavy on the gas pedal and rarely get over 44mpg. Power Mode sees lots of usage in overtaking lanes on mountain roads, the downside being somewhat higher oil consumption when I drive like that.

 

That is very frustrating. Toyota's 3rd gen EGR design is not standing up to higher mileage.

 

How much did the PCV valve and intake manifold cost for parts and labor?

 

The PCV is about $10 or something close. The manifold was just under $300 from what I remember. I don't know what labor would be for those.

The manifold is easy to get at and it's a job that looks more difficult that it really is. The only annoying parts are getting the electrical connectors unclipped and also unclipping the wiring harness on the left (passenger side when viewed from the front) side of the engine. I little trim/plastic fastener pry tool and some angled pliers helped with those. The only slightly awkward bolt was on the side of the manifold, just under where the EGR pipe connects and holds a bracket for some thin hoses. You don't need to take the coolant hoses off the throttle body. There's three hoses that go to the throttle body (if I recall correctly) - the one closest to the front without a clip just sucks air and can be removed. The two with clips can be left on and have enough play in them you let you rest the throttle body to one side and even take a peek at the underside. If it's gunked up, clamp the hoses and remove to clean the throttle body.

If you have hand tools, I'd say it's a 20 minute job to get the manifold off from the time you open the hood.

Once the manifold is off, the PCV valve is looking you right in the face. Access is easy. A 22mm deep socket is all you need. I started mine with a ratchet and finished with an impact gun. Out in seconds.

 

Feel free to evangelize about the ease of PCV valve access from above, but if PCV valve is all I'm after, I'll go at it from below. There I need to remove:

1. Engine under panel

From above I need to remove:

1. Air intake and air filter box
2. Throttle body
3. Intake manifold

 

The difference in time between opening the hood and taking the intake and manifold out and moving the car to a level surface and getting it on jack stands is about the same. Plus faffing around with those plastic tabs on the undertray is a pain. Milwaukee haven't made an attachment for my fuel impact guns to get those out quick. I can get the airbox and throttle body off faster than you can get the car in the air and on jack stands.

Personally, while I trust my RaceRamps (can't jack up the front of the car even with my low profile jack thanks to the TRD springs) I still prefer to work on the car from above and I also prefer not to have to fart around in tight spaces when screwing steel parts into an aluminum engine, especially a part covered in thread sealer. Knowing the part is going in straight is key with such an interference fit (courtesy of the sealant). I also prefer not having to take off an undertray that'll likely dump junk on my face. With putting ~45,000 miles a year on the car, I get a fair amount of junk in there.

If I wanted to lay on my back and get dirty, I'd go to the beach and have some fun in the process. Sure there are jobs where you have to get under the car, like changing fluids, but when I don't have to get under a 3,100lb lump of metal and plastic and lay on the garage floor or street, I'd rather not.

Maybe you like laying in dirt and doing things the hard way. I'll stick to keeping things simple and dignified.

 

Removed the PCV on a 2010 engine with a blown head gasket today. The engine is already removed from the vehicle. I also removed the plate that the valve is connected too. The PCV was all funky

 

Thanks for the gentle reminder
213K & it is getting close to the top of my to-do list!
Got another ICE oil change done today - yay