Hey kids! New acquisition.

And I would suggest looking at the inside of the oil filler cap.
If you have significant water getting into the oil, there should be a coating of white foam inside the cap.

AND....that shaking on startup can be a sign of oil accumulated in the intake manifold because of oil coming trough the PCV loop.

 

Replace the engine water pump while you're at it.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

ggggg

Since you seem to have money to burn, I suggest that you get a newer car.
Unless you enjoy a "never ending" adventure.
You do NOT know the "exact status" of everything else.......except that it is OLD.

Good luck.

 

Well done on the block test. Very conclusive result. Good that you got to that so quickly.

Especially since it sounds like you will be doing the head removal yourself, I think your plan sounds good.

But a few things on terminology to clarify some things ...
In Post #1, you referred to "cylinder was cracked" and "cracked block", and in Post #23, "valve job".

You could have a cracked cylinder head. Hopefully not though. If you do, a replacement head would probably be the best option.

And it is much less common, but possible that you have a cracked engine block. Replacement engine would be the answer if that.

I don't read much discussion on this forum about engines needing valve jobs (where the head is removed, and the valves are replaced or their sealing surfaces are ground, and the cylinder head's valve-seats are similarly ground to make a tight fit), even at astoundingly high mileages.

Much more common here is for problems with a failed head gasket. I seem some discussion of valve stem seals here, which would be relatively easy to do once you have the head off and apart.

So at least, I would keep an open mind and inspect carefully once you have the head off. Look for a HG failure - hopefully you can see one; if you don't that's bad because it means you've got another, more serious problem. Look for a cylinder head crack - and realize that may be difficult to find visually. You might want to remove the camshafts and have the machine shop that does the head work (at a minimum, you probably want to have the head cleaned and the face milled flat) pressure test it to see if the valves are sealing well, etc.

I don't know what to do about your concern for a bent rod.

 

If there's problems with anything below the head gasket, a new "short block" can be bought, for around $2k.

 

Ol' Sam, he ain't no adventurer.....

 

Beer, lots of beer.

Seriously, have fun and keep us posted on the progress.

 

There is no serpentine belt. And if "tensioner" meant drive belt tensioner, then there is not one of those either. But there is a crankshaft pulley, with v-grooves for a belt if one existed.

There are some really good youtube videos out there of the HG job. Gasket masters or something like that. Not what I would actually follow, since I'd follow the manual carefully. But watching them do things so quickly should give you a good feel for what is involved, and many good tips along the way.

EDIT - it looks like they took down their older videos and replaced them. Much longer now. Maybe more detailed and not so quick and dirty as the previous ones were (still great).
Gasket Masters - YouTube

 

Engine water pump.

And this is magnetically driven.

Who needs a serpentine belt.

 

Toyota makes a very extensive gasket kit, around $200~250 USD IIRC. Dealership would know it's part number. It's noted in a TSB for block rebuild; I could post it tomorrow (and a boatload of other relevant sections).

For "anything else": maybe replacement Toyota head bolts? A set is around $100 USD? Originals "may" be ok, there is Repair Manual specs to check.

Genuine Toyota head gasket and new bolts may help you sleep at night.

 

Replace it.

If you go through all the work you are about to undertake, make sure circulation isn't an issue.

It's a magnetically driven pump, the only way to inspect is to pull it, so why not with 227k miles just put a new one in its place.