Help with AC Please. 2009 Prius. Blowing not cold air.

I had given that a serious thought. I will see what's involved and price a condenser out too. The funny thing is even though you can buy the drier separately but you can't just replace the drier, as far as I know.

This one I am just going to ride out myself whether I fail or succeed.

 

Sounds good. Thanks

 

Yeah, I've been looking for an O-ring kit too. And schrader valve had crossed my mind, because the high side makes a hiss noise when I unscrew the cap but the low side does not. Thanks for the reminder.

 

Wow! that's great info. Thanks. Reading thru now.
I read some suggestion of cleaning with mineral spirits, methanol, lacquer thinner, Isopropyl for the system and Ester oil to flush the compressor. But wasn't sure if they could damage the rubber/plastic parts, but coming from @lech auto air conditionin Isopropyl 99% sounds like a viable solution. I also read somewhere that newer (parallel) condensers and driers should not be flushed, also compressor, drier, and expansion valves. I guess that only leaves out the lines. Might as well replace the condenser with drier. Does anybody suggest changing the pressure hoses too, while I am at it?

 

Seems like it. One of the poster was not able to separate it. And I think toyota instructs to replace condenser/dryer together.

 

Well after ChapmanF's recommendations I researched more and decided to replace the condenser/drier as well. What really inspired me was the Scott Kilmer's video that shows how tiny the holes on a parallel condenser are. For all I know, condenser could have been one of the factors to kill the compressor. I am getting a Denso condenser and leaning towards a reman Four Seasons 98360 compressor. I would like to buy the one without harness because it is cheaper. I am confused by this expert's picture, attached here, which is showing that there is an inverter on the compressor too which converts DC to AC. Does any experienced person know if this converter is built into the compressor or the harness. Because if it is built into the compressor then I can use the old harness and save money. I am also going to get o-ring kit. Can someone guide me as to which ones I should replace. Also are the AC schrader valves same size or do I have to get toyota specific. I was also thinking about replacing the expansion valve. Isn't it behind the glove compartment and difficult to change? What about the pressure switch. Isn't there a schrader valve too. Is it a good idea to replace the pressure switch and the schrader valve underneath it? I would really appreciate someone's guidance here, because I have to buy all required parts by the end of today. Thanks

 

Wow! thanks. I was looking at an ebay one for $62. Thanks man.

 

Thanks man, been waiting. I know you're busy. So glad you came across this post.
Ever Since it stopped cooling the compressor had been off. But when I connected techstream for the 1st time, without doing anything, the compressor starting turning, and came on every time I turned on AC but no cooling. At times I thought it was louder than usual, but mostly it was regular whining sound. I know for sure that it is spinning. As far as the AMPs go, checked in techstream and it was only drawing 0.117 KW while the compressor was on vs a working screenshot of TMR-JWAP which showed 0.666 KW (whoa triple 6). My site glass is crystal clear, no bubbles either and I do see some liquid. Yeah, thanks to TMR-JWAP and Leadfoot J. McCoalroller not pursuing the inverter route yet. No, not going to argue about replacing the condenser either. I have already ordered a reman four seasons compressor and denso condenser. I might be getting a bad idea, do you think I should check for debris in the compressor or just replace the condenser regardless? I have seen your album just recently. that kinda made up my mind.

 

Since I'm getting a reman compressor, flushing would be out of the question. But the seller says that it will come without any oil. Huh, weird. But I got me some IDQ A/C PRO Hybrid Compressor Oil, which nd-11 compatible. I will be honest with you that I am not planning on changing the expansion valve, have to take the dashboard down and all, and I can't I flush it either. What else should I flush. I have ordered the 99% alcohol, 12 16oz bottles, may come handy for future YEARS. I am thinking both hoses, and not sure what else. You think I should replace the schrader valve under the pressure switch too, if there is one. Got me some robinair vacuum pump oil, will leave the vacuum on overnight.

Honestly, when I 1st watched Scott Kilmer's videos, I thought what an idiot do people really listen to him. What a joker. Until I came across his video about emission testing. I was having a hell of a time getting my frontier to pass the emission, but his trick worked. Which by the way I had been doing for a few years, without understanding the actual process. His video explained it, and now it takes me less time and efforts. My truck is a spare. Last time I drove it for emission only. So I know that I am not polluting the atmosphere. Those O2 sensors are PIA to replace on a frontier. I will get around it in near future. I only mentioned that I saw tiny holes in the cut out parallel condenser that he shows. But I do gotta respect the guy, because I got benefitted twice by his videos. Can't ignore that.

If you can, please post about what else should be flushed.

 

The funny thing is that he talks about the 2nd gen prius in that article. But it never made any sense to me as why there might be a need of two converters, one in the inverter and one the compressor. Maybe I was too tired while reading it, or maybe the fear of the unknown. But I feel better now, thanks.

 

Here is the update. Opened the compressor, and sure enough it is broken. TMR-JWAP and Leadfoot J. McCoalroller were dang right. Thanks guys. Those RPM's of 10K may have been right too. Attaching picture. Next I wanted to see how much debris it may have passed towards the condenser. I was able to take out the bag and dryer filter without removing the condenser. It does not seem much, comparing to the others in lech auto air conditionin photo album. Regardless, it would be smart to go ahead and replace the condenser. Now my only worry is that I am not planning to replace the expansion valve, and it's eating me to think if it is a good decision. Seeing very few metal shards on the dryer filter and the bag, kinda indicates that not much may have passed to the evaporator and the expansion valve. The oil's color looks good too and I can hardly see any metal shard in there, although I see a lot of air bubbles. I measured 2 oz extracted oil from the compressor. I will flush both hoses. I wish there were a way to flush the evaporator. Will replace condenser/dryer. Will give it a good overnight vac. Change the accesible o-rings and schrader valves. Weigh and recharge 15.9 oz of walmart r134a (only), and verify in techstream.

A few questions
Since 2 oz of oil came out from the compressor, and I am replacing the condenser, should I add 3 oz of the new oil to the compressor. The reman compressor is not supposed to have any oil in it, but I will check before mounting it. Another small concern, because I will add oil to the compressor prior to vacuuming, a tiny amount of oil would not get not get sucked out would it?

I was considering getting the flush and recharge done at the local dealership. Do they actually flush the system, and if they do with what and do they do individual components? I thought you are not supposed to flush the condenser, dryer, and the expansion valve. Unless they flush the system with Nitrogen.

 

Yes that 2 oz oil is drained from the old compressor. So I will gor for 2.5 oz of new oil. And will blow through the lines and hoses with 99% isopropyl alcohol. Let it air out for an hour or so. I wish I knew someone who had nitrogen or argon. But for substitute, after a proper recharge, i'll check low/high pressure after a week and then after a month to see if holds and also verify in techstream. Definitely vac overnight before charging. I think letting it sit vac'ed with pump off for an hour should also indicate if there is any leak.

Thanks for you input. Looking at the old oil condition it made sense not to worry about the expansion valve. But coming from an expert re-assures. I really did not want to dismantle the dashboard anyway.

Now I have to sit and wait for the alcohol, schrader valves, and the o-rings. Already received the compressor and the condenser. Well, if Denso was not making enough money already, they replaced the old steel filter with a new plastic one. Pure greed. So if the plastic filter melts or gets brittle, will surely have to replace the evaporator and the expansion valve along with the condenser. Thought about using the old steel filter, but haven't done a close inspection yet. It certainly is not ditto. Also going to replace all four TPMS. Got the cheap eBay ones for $45. They say OEM, but I do not believe them. Will update on that too. Planning to replace the batteries on the old ones and keep for future, and maybe use one of them in the spare tire.