Heating solutions

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(hyo silver @ Feb 5 2007, 11:48 AM) [snapback]385561[/snapback]</div>

Very true. But I did say be careful around curtains, just being the cheap, I mean frugal person I am, not seeing the point of going out to buy some special dust when there are basically free alternatives around.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(maggieddd @ Feb 5 2007, 12:01 PM) [snapback]385571[/snapback]</div>

The 3M stuff I used was almost invisible. Follow instructions carefully, I had to mess one or two up before I got it right, though.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(maggieddd @ Feb 5 2007, 01:56 PM) [snapback]385569[/snapback]</div>

OK, I'll admit to being confused. If you are living on the 3rd floor, and you are not renting the other 2, is anyone living in them? Are you heating "empty space"

Overall, the ideas have been stated, verify proper insulation in walls and ceiling (you do not go on the roof to check roof insulation, it is in the attic), caulk around windows, and, if they are not insulated windows (meaning single pane or removable storm window type) consider replacing them. Biggest heat loss is by poor insulation or poor sealing of outside air. Lastly, if you furnace is old and inefficient, replace it.

Oh, if you do have empty space you are heating, I have read that under some circumstances it is actually unwise to cut off heat to interior unused rooms because interior doors are poorly insulated as are interior walls and you simply bring in cold air to cool the rest of the house. There are many variables here so I would recommend just experimenting here.

Auxillary heat sources are not solving the problem, only masking it. I also use a progammable thermostat that regulates my home temp based on my daily use patterns.

Just my thoughts, good luck to you.

 

If you turn your heat all the way off during the day, I think it'll use excessive amounts of energy to heat your house at night. Plus, kitty won't like it. Also, I think your pipes can freeze if you do this.

Look for cracks. I found half inch gaping cracks around the gas pipes that enter our house. I sealed them with that expanding foam. Look at the interior where your furnace is to see if there are any gaps between the pipes and the walls or floors. If your windows are double paned, I don't see how they can be a problem except that you may have leaks around the frames that should be caulked. Also, look at any doors that you have with light shining through from the other side to see if you have any visible gaps. Lastly, someone else mentioned ceiling fans. With ceilings as high as yours, you'd very much benefit from their use. Make sure that you have the blades revolving the right way for winter conditions.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(maggieddd @ Feb 5 2007, 11:56 AM) [snapback]385569[/snapback]</div>

So why are you living on the top floor? I think you'll find this is the coldest floor in the house and therefore the one that needs most heating. This is because it loses heat through the roof whereas the middle floor gets the extra insulation of the floor above and the one below. But the ground floor is probably the warmest. At least I find this in my own house which is also old and on three floors. In very cold weather there is a conspicuous difference in the temperatures, going down as you go upstairs. In summer it's the opposite, with the top floor often being too hot on a summer day because of the sun on the roof.

 

I don't want to pry into your living arrangements, Maggie, but if kitty has the second floor to himself, he's likely keeping the temperature where he wants it, and he's got a fur coat on. No wonder you're cold.

 

You might check to see if your local power company will do a free energy audit. Many will. They will come in with fancy gadgets that can detect the biggest heat loss locations.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(maggieddd @ Feb 4 2007, 11:17 PM) [snapback]385585[/snapback]</div>

The "crappiness" depends on how "handy" you are, the stuff is not that hard to put up. I'd certainly try it myself before paying someone, but my frugalness has been noted in this thread already. Seriously, it's not that hard to put up, and very inexpensive.

 

Maggie

I'm unsure of the age of your home, but let's guess around +50 years old? Unless the renovation was a complete gut of the interior, I'd be very surprised if you even had any insulation in the walls. Or if you did have insulation, there probably isn't a vapor barrier to speak of.

Air infiltration can be a significant factor for high heating bills, especially in a climate like mine where this morning it was -39 F. Even if vapor barrier is installed, it tends to be just overlapped on seams with no real thought given to making the product work.

As an example, it's code here to use Tuck tape on all the seams to completely seal the vapor barrier. Electrical boxes must be special airtight design, the the vapor barrier is also Tuck taped to the box sealing flange. Acoustic sealant is applied to the bottom sill to seal the vapor barrier to the sill.

On the exterior, Tyveck housewrap is used, all seams Tuck taped. The windows are also Tuck taped to the Tyveck house wrap to ensure a building envelope as tight as possilbe.

You mentioned the roof being recently redone. If it's a cathedral ceiling using regular batt insulation you're lucky to have an R-30 value. But you mentioned exposed beams, if that's the case then the ceiling R value may be under R-20. If a closed cell polyurethane foam, like BASF's Walltite brand, was used, then a 6 inch layer should be close to R-40.

Since heat rises, your third floor (Top floor) "apartment" should be the warmest in winter. Unless the heat loss through the ceiling is very high. You could easily verify this with infrared thermography, which is best done in early morning before the sun rises. I use infrared thermography to inspect motor control centers and three phase transformers at industrial sites.

Skylights overall are a horrible idea in a climate that can get colder than +20 F in winter. Even a triple glazed window only has an effective R value of around R-6, maybe R-8 with dual argon gas fill and dual low-e coatings. By contrast a 2x6 wall filled with batt insulation is around R-20.

The age of the furnace can't help your *system* efficiency if the ductwork is uninsulated and not sealed. DOE reports and studies on residential energy efficiency determined on *average* a minimum 20% of the total system air input was lost due to ductwork that was uninsulated and unsealed.

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home...provement_ducts

To try any changes to your house, just how easy is it to get to the walls and the ductwork? If it's an older house with plaster walls, you're talking a very major gutting to even see what if any insulation is in there, let alone vapor barrier. If the ductwork is buried behind plaster and gyproc, again a major gutting to get to it.

I'm good at framing, plumbing, and excellent at electrical, but even I know when to draw the line. Almost always I prefer to build new, as I have total control over the process, since I do it myself. Though I'd sooner give myself a castration than hire it out to a "contractor."

You'd be surprised how many "contractors" asked me what I was doing when I was going through the pile of lumber, carefully eyeballing each stud, and placing an "X" on one side. They were clueless about the concept of "crown" in lumber. My Dad taught me that as a kid. Scary. Trust the "professionals" at your own peril.

About all I can suggest that won't break your budget is to consider an infrared or radiant gas heater. They're very energy efficient and make you feel warm

The house I used to have in the burbs had 2x6 walls with BASF Walltite closed cell urethane insulation, triple glazed Polar thermal windows, a R-70 roof, and a Bryant Evolution Plus 90i two stage gas furnace with heat recovery ventilator. I did most of the construction myself, and I also sealed the ductwork and insulated it with R-20.

For a cold winter month with average lows of -20 F, my natural gas for heating and hot water worked out to around $230. In summer to heat the hot water cost $30.

My house at the hobby farm has exterior walls of insulated concrete form. In my opinion ICF is the only way to build a house, I'd never do it with stick framing again. For January with our bitter -30 to -40 lows, the gas bill was $128.

A lot of people claim energy efficient construction just doesn't "pay" off. Bull. Even if you break even, the home is way more comfy, no drafts, and quieter too.

Good luck with your heating problem. If you have any more questions, please feel free to PM me with details.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(maggieddd @ Feb 5 2007, 01:58 PM) [snapback]385657[/snapback]</div>

This will definitely save you some money. How much depends on all your other variables. If you don't have a programmable thermostat get one so you can have the heat start about 30 minutes before you get home and then your pad will be nice and toasty when you walk in the door.

It's a common misconception that it takes more energy to heat up the cold house than to just leave it warm all day long. If you didn't have a cat taking the temp even lower during the day would save a few more ducats.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Display Name @ Feb 5 2007, 06:49 AM) [snapback]385506[/snapback]</div>

Yikes!

I would seriously recommend NOT doing this. You might get away with not venting your cooking, depending on how much you do, but the dryer vent should always, always, always be vented outside if you have a gas dryer. Besides being absolutely laden with moisture that might cause condensation in your home and make you feel cooler, it is also full of the products of combustion. Like carbon monoxide. Which you can't smell, and can't see, but kills over 200 people a year in this country as they sleep in their beds.

I talk to the survivors of such accidents every winter, and they would gladly have spent a ton of money on energy rather than lose their loved ones.

Gas appliances should be vented, especially in a house that you are "sealing up" to save money on energy. If you have random headaches, a slight quesy feeling in your stomach, or a feeling of lethargy when inside, you could be experiencing carbon monoxide poisoning. It will kill you eventually.

By the way, 50°F is fine for a cat during the day. He'll curl up somewhere and conserve heat; a box or one of those kitty houses will work great. In an enclosed space, he'll quickly heat up the space and be very comfortable.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(maggieddd @ Feb 5 2007, 06:48 AM) [snapback]385502[/snapback]</div>

From personal experience:
I use to live on the second floor of a very drafty 1920's fourplex, but was quite comfortable, even on cold [California standards] nights. This apartment building had free radiant floor heat. Not that the building was built that way, but because the elderly gentleman below me kept his apartment blazing at 85 degrees day and night. My floor was warm to the touch! I actually had to open windows if I did not wish to sweat to death.

My suggestion: Try heating the apartment below you instead of your unit. A warm floor and cold ceiling is much more comfortable than a hot ceiling and cold floor.

Solar Panels:
This is one of those cases where not having your location in your profile puts everyone at a disadvantage. <_<
Do you live in a California-ish climate or a Minnesota-ish climate?
Geographic location makes a big difference. Site location and orientation makes a big difference. Solar heat may be a good option for you in an old drafty house. Have some solar experts come advise you on options.

Some day I hope to build a house with a six inch concrete slab floor with hydronic radiant floor heat hooked up to lots of cheap solar panels. I will pump lots of heat into the slab and regulate the house temperature by opening windows if needed. [yep, I miss that drafty old apartment with warm floors :wub: ]

http://www.the-mrea.org/download/HydronicFloorsFactSheet.pdf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Underfloor_heating
http://www.eere.energy.gov/consumer/your_h...m/mytopic=12590