Has anyone installed the enginer PHEV?

So is that 9C or 9F? - always hard to tell with you guys in the UK. 9C would be pleasant (we hit a balmy -8C/18F today), 9F not so much. At least here in the US we are solidly locked into the 18th century with our measurement system. You can consistently count on us to use units that no one else in the world still uses (except our UK friends... occassionally).

As far as using EV mode too much, I'll take my chances. The whole point of the kit was to use electricity instead of gas. That said, I will hook up the ventilation and fans before it starts to warm up here in the mountains.

 

9C, farenheit is only used in the over 50's club here now

I've pushed the car quote hard in EV mode, and the converter has happily complied since december, i am sure it would have failed by now if it was going to. The case could do with some more fans though, and if i ever get the enthusiasm a water cooling system would be pretty snazzy.

 

I have had the DC/DC converter replaced a couple of times and the smell with the latest one is quite strong and can't wait till it burns off.

Any one with the new DC/DC converter see it seems to cut off every 10 minutes?
Mine while new, with freashly charged batteries, cuts out at 10 minutes or so. I reset it by fliping the switch OFF then ON again, after 10 seconds or so, and seem to go for a while again. This is anoying to keep having to remember to get it to kick back on again. Is something wrong?

 

Before the drive, I checked the converter and it was just a few degrees above ambient temp. The engine was already warmed up. I drove about 7 to 7.5 miles. During this trip, the ICE was used to accelerate from 0 to 45mpg only twice. Rest are pure stealth mode driving. I use the electric motor to accelerate from 0 to 40+ miles at least 6 time during the traffic stops. I've sustained 40+mph in stealth for at least 5 miles. I don't remember that mileage but I think it was over 500mpg. At the end of the trip, I heard the converter pop then it stunk up my cab. I pulled into my garage, opened the hatch and checked the converter, It was really hot to the touch. It has never been this hot before. I had not put the cover on so the converter was exposed to the cabin air. Imagine if I had put the Enginer cover on and the cargo tray cover and the cargo cover on. It would have over heated long ago.

 

Actually, i think when the Enginer lid is on, and the fans at the end of the case are extracting air, it draws air over the body of the converter all the time. with no Enginer lid you are moving no air over the body of the converter, and relying on it's two tiny fans to extract air from it.

 

If you ever go metric, start using the 24 hour clock as well. Must be confusing if you forget to mention am or pm.

But you're right: you should be able to drive EV I think. Flan has a good point; if you leave the lid open there will not be a good air flow in order to cool the inverter so it would be best to keep it closed.

 

I'm not even sure how you could possibly drive the car with the lid open to begin with.

 

The 2010 version doesn't have the hinged lid with stay, it's just a sheet of metal which you remove to access the kit.

 

Do you have the newer system with the RealForce batteries? Have you posted your problem on the User forum @ the Enginer site?

 

I am fitting mine the weekend but have a question, I am in the UK and have a gen2 right hand drive Prius, in the instalation manual PDF it refers to a plug behind glove box for the green ready live, is that still behind the glovebox? or will it now be in the drivers footwell?
I know I can leave the white ev wire off as I have an EV switch.

Simon

 

For the gen3 the instructions say behind glovebox, and it was still behind the glovebox on RHD. Hopefully gen2 is the same!

 

Thanks, at least I know when I finally upgrade to a gen 3 I know where it is

 

Hmm, well maybe not that helpful, but i tried!

 

Hey I wasn't being sarky, I hope to have the latter Prius someday soon, well that is if I survive this round of redundancies
You were right anyway, it was there and it's all done and working a treat, thanks to everyone on here for all the clues, ideas and experience you share

 

alevinemi,
You'll want to save up for a Scangauge. There's plenty of good info you can get from it like SOC, current flow, and voltage. Also nice to have handy in case your car "throws a code" that needs to be reset.

That said, there isn't much you need to differently. If you have an EV switch, you will be able to use EV mode a bit more, since the Enginer pack will help refill your Prius pack.
- Don't leave the Enginer system in a discharged state for a long period of time.
- If you are not going to use the system for a while, unhook the batteries from the rest of the system so it they don't get drained by any parasitic load.
- Charge up when you can.
- Drain the pack until the red light comes on once in a while just to exercise it.
While in Troy you can ask Enginer their latest info about cold weather.
And be sure to have them get you User status on their forums. There's a lot of good info over there.

I have an Enginer customer in Terre Haute with a 2010 Prius that we did an install for last year. When his system is running he gets great mileage.

Enjoy your system! And if you want to meet up with other Enginer owners this summer, be sure to come to Green Drive Expo in Madison, WI. There's info in the link in my signature.

 

I have installed the enginer system and have seen a 25% boost in mileage. I have tried to log the details at my personal web page (hrivnak.com) but I can not yet post a URL as I am too new.. Overall the system can be installed in a weekend and they have good support if you run into a problem.

 

Hi dhrivnak,
I'm interested in hearing more.
But I went to hrivnak.com, but that does not seem to be an actual web site. PM me the correct site name and I'll post it, or go back and edit your original post.

 

I have version 6 that leaves room for spare tire. I avg. 60+ mpg winter/c.70 summer.
I have a problem with it putting out too much current and causing engine to race and throwing dtc, Must have scan gauge in order to regulate soc. Quite a bother.I think that this output can be adjusted but is complicated. Really only an aid to polution reduction,