Has anyone installed the enginer PHEV?

you have to noot that even when the PHEV pack is only 48 volts and that this can not over charge ( when connected directly ) the oem battery pack ( in that case the other way around ( it will overcharge the PHEV pack )
but the DC-DC converter can overcharge the OEM pack if not shutdown.

 

Awright guys, take the brawl outside if you would...
.
Jack and I chatted a bit at Kempton and I went into how I'd love
to start seeing a bidirectional converter that could also steal
a little juice from the stock Prius system to recharge the PHEV
pack once in a while. But such a system would probably require a
little driver intervention to tell it when to do that, esp. if
one wanted to best plan for upcoming terrain like a big mountain
downhill. Given the skill level we've seen out of most of the
less technical PHEV drivers in general [e.g. abysmal] that would
also have to come with a solid training package.
.
Taking temps into account is probably important; in colder weather
I see the stock Prius battery voltage make substantially greater
excursions for the same amount of current in and out. Internal
resistance goes up, etc etc. That still shouldn't affect what the
Enginer system does with respect to current since it's still under
what the Prius would limit its own pack current to in the heat or
cold, but the threshold voltage setpoints might want to be able to
self-adjust up and down a little based on the ballpark *prius*
battery temperature.
.
I know that this issue has already killed its share of contactor-based
systems, especially with mixed battery chemistries.
.
_H*

 

Does anybody like the Manzanita PFC40h converter? What input voltage and amperage can it accept? I thought that converter could do the bidirectional conversion.

 

Hobbit,
I think driver training would be a welcome addition to any of these systems. It would benefit the driver as well as the company since the drivers would be able to get the most out of the systems as well as understand any limitations.

 

I think driving training is a huge part of the results equation as well.

 

Here is a list of all available BMSs for LI-Ion cells:


Jungle motor is not on it because they don't make a BMS. What you see on their site is actually made by Convert The Future

 

I own one of this since few years, is a great converter, AC and DC to DC. Input of 110 to 340 AC to 10 to 360VDC 45Amps (untested to 360 by me, I only reached 320VDC) and 60VDC to 340VDC input to 10 to 360VDC at full 45Amps.
On a 110VAC 20Amp circuit will put up to 30Amp, on a 240VAC 50Amp circuit will put up to 50Amp DC.
It is expensive, but you pay for a quality product, NOT like other "wanna be".
I used it on my first PHEV conversions, one with Lead Acid, the second with NiMH power sources. With both I had REGEN recapture back to my batteries but was a cumbersome High Current relays handling, not worth it at the time.
At this days I'm using the PFC40HM as my everyday PHEV packs (5) charger since few months and I love it. Full juice when I need it and in a short time, I recharge in an hour and a half.
Now, if you want to capture the full "regen" in to your PHEV additional battery pack (s) in a simple installation, have a GREAT system, has a great manufacturers customer support, an astounding well written description/instructions and "affordable" for all the features and benefits it provides, the answer is HYBRID Interfaces, CANview4+ and BMS+.
Just my 2 cents and well deserved advertising.

 

Who is willing to write the " How to Drive your PHEV for Dummies" with out crashing?

 

Enginer kit has temperature sensor to automatically adjust output voltage for NiMH OEM battery. Currently in Detroit, Temperature is around 40F. The OEM pack is at 215V, 60% SOC. Enginer Converter output voltage limit drops from normal 240V to 230V.

 

did you ever do a capacity test of your packs to see what it can hold?
i did this and planning on doing it again over time to see if there is and if so what amount of degradation i have in the capacity of the packs
your using fast charging now for a while so i really intressed in your findings.

do you install a temp sensor inside the oem battery pack or one in your own kit using the ambient temparature as a source for temp adjustements?

 

I watched them install my kit and nothing was installed on the oem pack except the wires from the DC/DC converter. Any temp sensor must be INSIDE the converter.

 

I am new to the group having JUST purchased a Prius. But my second vehicle a 2004 Chevy Avalanche I converted to a plug-in hybrid. After my first battery pack died I used Li-FePO4 batteries from Jack Chen of Troy MI. The price he gave me seemed too good to be true and buying 12 batteries was a chunk of change for me so I drove up to pick up the batteries in person. Through the transaction Jack gained my trust and I would definately do business again with him. When I met him April of 2009 he had just installed a similar package to being described in his Prius. I do not know this but I suspect he is an automotive engineer who is trying to drum up a side business. If anyone is interested in learning about my hybrid Avalanche see my home page at hrivnak.com.

 

Very interesting Hybrid conversion; unfortunately as you commented, to expensive for the MPG gains. In one way or the other, I salute you for your efforts and ingenuity my friend.

 

if there is only a temp sensor in the dc-dc inverter then there is no compensation for the oem battery.
only dc-dc heat compensation based on the inverter temp to protect the inverter selfs.


btw Lead is Dead
nicely done.

 

Just got my unit. Do I leave the spare tire and jack inside or do I pull them out? Do it support the battery?

 

You can leave them in.

 

Took the jack out but left the tire in. Jack seemed to interfere.

 

Does any one know where I can get a H14 plug body?
I think I ruin mine.



Thanks

 

You can order a replacement part at any Toyota Authorized service station, Parts Counter outlet............

 

hey guys,

who here has gone through 2 or more converters? my second is dead, i think. it lasted 20 charges or so.

BTW, how are some of these new people getting such great mpgs with the new converter? its output is too low to sustain EV mode, unless your driving 5mph. i see people getting 70-80mpgs. i was only able to obtain that with the old converter, which overheated because of its high output and Los Angeles summer heat. ttyl.