Happy?

I don't think so.

 

did you have anything afetermarket installed? or dealer add on?

 

I have never encountered the setting you speak of, and I have idea what it does. Can you post a couple of photos from the screen ? What steps did you take to reach that setting ?

I doubt your hypothesis of 'weighting' because you said in your OP that without 'hypermiling' your tank average would drop. That implies driving for more than a while at less than 34 MPG. Your 50 mile jaunt result however sounds pretty reasonable.

 

My guess is that setting is for comparison purposes just like the price entry for cost saving calculations. I'd bet there is a display that shows you how much above or below that "goal" your last trip was. Pg 234 of the 2014 Owner's Manual shows how to set it, but I can't find the explanation of what it's used for. I set mine to the 24.5 mpg our old van got, but I've never found where it tells me anything, though I admit I haven't looked at the monthly consumption report, etc.

Edit: I just looked at the report and didn't see anything related to the mpg I entered.

 

This is what I measured in May 2009:


I'm glad you ran the test since this is how we know what the car does "new." It gives us a benchmark to diagnose future problems.

GOOD LUCK!
Bob Wilson

 

Glad to see your mpg's are great in the real world. The 2015's are doing just fine on this board - see my fuelly below with standard air pressure and 99% driving in "normal" mode

 

if when 'resetting confirming everything else', you reset the trip meter, than that was your problem. you were being weighted down by low starting average from the dealer. it's difficult to bring the average up much on a single tank. glad you're all good!

 

It connects to a temperature sensor, so the all-knowing computer will know the temperature of the battery's environment.

... and congratulations!

 

if it is 2015 it has to be under warranty.

From what I've seen so far many Prii had alignment issues from the factory. My C was re-aligned at 5K service, and front had over 1/2" toe-in on both sides; way to much. After fix MPG went up, and then slightly grew up when tires broke in.

Also due to tight tolerances, first few hundred MPG really bad, and it will be improving all the way to 1st oil change at 10K.

Check tire pressure, that is another buzz killer.

 

The actual computed mpg for my first fill-up was 7.6 mpg higher than the CONS display. That led me to believe they topped off the tank without resetting Trip A after driving the car over from a dealer on the other side of town. When we bought the car, there were no Blizzard Pearls available anywhere in Phoenix, but another dealer had one coming the following week. So they traded one of their Grays for mine and when it came in they drove the Gray over and swapped cars. The funny thing is that when the salesman stopped to top off the Gray, another car backed into it at the service station. Not sure how they worked things out, but we've got our BP and that's all that matters to us.

 

Assuming fairly consistent design in all of the Generation III vehicles, the outside air temperature sensor is located lower center of the bottom air intake in front of the radiator. If you look straight down through the opening where the hood safety catch is, you can see it down there. And the dashboard plug you mention is probably the night-day optical sensor that was on the left side of the dash near the inside bottom of the windshield on the Generation II. IIRC it does something with the air conditioning schedule which doesn't have to be as aggressive at night. Not sure if it is involved in the automatic headlight system. Someone more knowledgeable will likely chime in.

 

That's what I thought its main purpose was.

 

Was there a problem with the PiP that you traded it in?

There were reports of Oregon going with an alternate taxing system on cars like the PIP. Did anything ever come of it beyond the prototype system?

Bob Wilson

 

It's too soon to panic. Just drive the car for a period of time and don't worry about it for now. Check your tire pressure before you drive it in the morning.

 

Well now, that tidbit of information would have been welcome in your first post.

Cooling in a Prius is probably the most efficient of any car, but nothing is free. The first 5 minutes of cooling, when the system is bringing the cabin temperature and humidity to the level you set can be quite a drain; keeping the cabin at that setting is usually much easier on the system. Personally, I do not cool down the car if I am only going for a short trip for the above reasons.

There has been a lot of useful discussion in the forum how to minimize the energy consumption of A/C in the summer if you are interested. For Oregon start with:

1. Always set a sun-block on the windshield. Takes 30 seconds to place or pull down
2. Keep windows cracked for ventilation. In Oregon you probably would want to install rain guards.

 

No, because there is no meaningful 'average' stop-and-go situation. The shorter the trip, the worse the MPG because the fuel penalties for initially warming the engine, and initially cooling the cabin, are spread over fewer miles.

In flat areas, DON'T USE 'B'. EVER.

'B' is strictly for long downhill descents that could overheat the brakes. In flat areas, it produces no change while accelerating, but costs fuel at other times. Using 'B' incorrectly won't hurt the car itself, only the MPG.