Going to buy a 2005 with a dead hybrid battery

The auto up/down of the window goes away if 12v power is lost. It can be regained by pressing and holding the "up" button for about 10 seconds after the window is actually up all the way. This basically lets the ecu know that the actual position of the window MUST be fully "raised". Once it knows the position, it will allow the auto function to work. Now, if you go out to the car tomorrow, and you have to do the 2 button push again, and the window auto feature doesn't work, I would start thinking you're experiencing some type of 12v system problem.

By the way, -106 amps is about the max you'll probably ever see when braking. You had to have been on the brakes pretty hard

148 amps on accelerating is pretty good too, try a few more fast starts from redlights and stop signs, I think you have a little more room to go higher

Overall I think your chart is pretty decent for the battery and minimal rebuild you did. The great part is that the "minimum voltages" are all fairly close. That voltage is what got recorded when you were at 148 amps discharge rate under full accell. A weak module should show up pretty clearly at 148 amps.

 

Your mpg sounds just fine to me

 

Just curious....When you shut the car off, is the gas engine already off or is it still running? If the gas engine is still running does it eventually shut off on it's own?

 

Bad oil eater there by the looks of the plugs they look really bad. Or just very bad carbar but I see wet oil.
Thats not good.

I recently bought a inspection camera. There very handy. You can stick it in through the plug hole and check out how bad the cylinder walls look. Which will give you a benchmark on how much life the engine has left. I bought a Craftsman buy there's plenty on Amazon pretty cheap.
Don't put anymore anymore money in the engine till you can look at the cylinder walls as the plugs do not look good at all.

 

Amazon failed delivery never seen that. All kinds of cars and dudes show up at my door with Amazon packages. Surprised they don't throw them though my window.

Yeah peek in the cylinders...look at cylinder #2 first. That's always the cylinder that throws a piston through the block on a real bad Prius oil eater. Its always cyl #2.
It may just be a really bad oil eater was starved a few times and the first thing that goes is the piston wrist bearing.
Don't put anymore time or money into it till you see how bad it is.

It may be new engine time but you got it cheap right?

 

wow, 6 bucks. At that price it's worth replacing them all while you're in there. Nice find.

 

I suspect you are buying stuff that is stocked in the local Amazon warehouse. I only buy out of state and don't mind waiting for UPS or USPS to make their rounds.

 

So, I was intrigued by this. Let me clarify the normal things, and then you can tell me if these don't work for you.
Normally, if you have disconnected the 12 V supply, when you next start after reconnecting, you have to press the brake pedal (so it activates the brake lights) and then press the power button, then, while still holding the brake, press the power button a second time. There after, you just need to press the brake pedal (so it activates the brake lights) and then press the power button once to make the car READY from OFF.

Normally, from any mode (OFF, ACC, IG-ON), when you press the brake pedal (so it activates the brake lights) and then press the power button once, it will go to READY.

It sounds like you (have your foot off the brake) and cycle through one press (ACC mode); then cycle again with another press (IG-ON mode); then you put you press the brake pedal (so it activates the brake lights) and then press the power button once again to make the car READY.

How does the above normal behavior fit into your experience?

No, you were just victim of Amazons bait and switch algorithm that tries to stimulate the market place when TPS (transactions per second) get too low for its liking. Sometimes it is used to feature either new sellers or sellers with flagging sales. Not sure if it is a paid (by seller) feature to help boost sales, but it happens, a lot.

But, I digress off-topic. Normal programming resumes.

 

That sounds like just the normal initial part of stage 1. You can read up on the 5 stages of Prius warm-up in the link in my signature.

In stage 1, which ( in 68ºF (20C) with the heater / A/C off) will last 50 seconds from when the engine starts (after 7 seconds from becoming READY – unless you press the accelerator). At about 40 secs the VVT (variable valve timing) resets from a relatively lean setting (to warm up the engine quicker) to a normal setting. In this first stage, if you drive off the vast majority of the propulsion is by the electric motors using energy from the HV battery. If you request more power than can be provided by just the electric motor, the car will be forced into stage 2 and use the ICE as well.

Some people liken the initial start up sound to the clatter of a sewing machine.

I think your engine is running normally.

So just one problem to fix. Also, disconnect the 12 V battery when you've replaced the injector, it will reset the DTCs and the fuel trims and other engine parameters back to defaults and then relearn them from the next drive session(s).

 

Yeah it’s not bad it’s not a bag of marbles and not dis5urbing at all. The top end of the motor is just a little more clakity then usual. It’s a very noisey top end because it uses solid tappets but not that bad.

Take a video of the engine doing this.