Going to buy a 2005 with a dead hybrid battery

I guess I did that load test wrong then, I'll read up on it and have another crack.
I'll order this coolant valve http://amzn.to/2DqWpnP and hopefully have it in next weekend, along with this coolant just in case http://amzn.to/2Fyneaw. Is that the right stuff? and can this be used in both coolant sysems?

 

JC - do you know something I need to know? Any common causes? A hit list so to speak?

 

So, I've taken it for a few test drives today. It seems every time I park it and turn it off, when I get back in I have to perform that procedure TMR mentioned. Is that normal?
If I disconnect the battery, I can drive with no codes. But as soon as I park and turn off, as soon as I go to start again, there's a bunch of lights on the dash but no error codes.

 

Where could it be leaking to ground. The only codes I've got today were misfire codes. I'm going to try adding my jump pack to the 12v battery, it was reading lower then the 12v so I've got it on charge.

One thing I thought was odd, while looking at the torque app, the voltage on the 12v was a constant 14v. Is that right? Is it automatically fed that from the HV battery as soon as the car is on? I'm still learning how these systems work as I've never had a hybrid, part of the reason why I bought the Prius, to learn. So dolj, I'm chewing this bite.

I just found out how to test the 12v using the car so I'll try that too and see what I get.

 

TMR - The second one. Every time I turn off and remove key. When I go to drive again I have to do the 2 button, brak and button procedure. I do NOT disconnect the battery each time.

 

dolj - I have Torque Pro and the Prius add ons. Is there a specific guage I need to set up? The battery is not disconnected each time, I just have to do the multiple button procedure mentioned above and then I can drive fine, until I drive it hard and a misfire code pops up.

 

Update - I went out and did the battery test from the MFD. In ready mode with the lights on I have 11.8V, with the lights off I have 12.1V. It was reading 12.5V with a multi-meter at the battery. So I think that rules out the 12V battery.

The CEL, exclamation mark, ABS and traction lights were on at startup. When reading the codes I got the P1121 code. I then did the start button fandango mentioned previously and go for a drive. Stop turn the car off, and the same scenario. I think that coolant pump needs to be replaced sooner than later so I'll be ordering it today.

On a side note, I picked up some Marvel Mystery Oil, MMO, and put some in the tank with about 7 gallons of gas. I also added a tad to the oil making sure to stay under the full mark. However when I opened the oil filler cap, there is a layer of oily slime on the metal directly below, looking inside the engine. It was soft and easily rubbed off with a finger. Is this film all over the inside of the engine do you think and would it be advisable to do an engine flush of some sort? Or is there one oil that's better at cleaning this stuff out than another?

 

I should mention those readings were after resting over night. The engine was not started this morning. The first time it went into ready mode was to take the V reading under load. I think it's ok.

 

No SKS, the window does not auto up or down.
I didn't check the radio, but I think it keeps them as long as the battery is not disconnected.

 

Long test drive update - After a 104 mile test drive with lots of hills in the Cascade foothills and about 25% highway. The auto up and down on the driver window is back. Once going through start button fandango I only got 1 code while driving. It happened leaving a rest stop, flooring it to get up to speed to join traffic. I did notice that mpg drops when there is a stored code. I cleared the code and finished off the drive. Of course it was a misfire code. Maybe the MMO is working because the frequency of codes popping up has decreased vastly.