Gen II Prius Individual Battery Module Replacement

Thanks for the update @dolj , it is a nice addition and/or correction. The ultimate goal is finding the best combination of steps and parameters. Thank you.

 

Whoops, looks like an error in my maths there, that should read:

Finally, if you wanted to have 80% (8 bars on the MDF) 8.15 V/module is the target to aim for.

8.4 V/module is nearer 100% SoC. Sorry about that and I will see if the post can be edited by a mod.

 

Hey Guys,

Long time reader first time posting! I so like many of you my pack went dead, I took it to the shop for my abs actuator originally then the triangle of death came on. The mechanic said it was block 2, after ready a few post here Ive come to the conclusion that I am going to need a charger, a PSU, and TIME. My biggest problem is time, as this is my only vehicle and taking multiple means of transportation to and from work is just not cutting it especially with the times we are currently in. My question is if in my position how would you best approach this situation given the circumstances. I already ordered my cells and willing to do the dirty work, would just replacing and balancing the unit suffice? or would it be best to do the full balance and discharge on each cell then determine which cell are in fact needing of replacing.

Thanks again in advance.

 

You can do whatever you want.
You may need to go back into it again, but at least you'll be faster at it.

Quickest approach...
Find bad module
Stick in replacement module.
Get replacement module close to voltage of other modules (0.1v)
Move on.

 

Hey prius gurus,

so another quick question (hopefully) I just took my battery apart and tested each cell, they all read 8v!?!?! My I got the triangle of death and it showed on my mechanics computer that module 2 had gone bad. But after just doing a volt meter test they all came to be 8v, should I load test them? If load testing what am I looking for in terms of dropped V withing a certain time frame, like what is good and what is bad? Thanks again

 

Yes.

The actual number is not important, you are looking for modules that drop lower than the others in 120 secs.

 

happy to report the triangle of death is no longer, I just did a hot swap, didnt do the full blown charge discharge. I did a load test on all, and everything stayed at 8v so decided to just change the bad one, im hoping A is ok for the next few thousand miles, beats buying a used pack for 600$!! did everything for 100 just a little elbow grease and boom. Also beats swapping out an ABS module man those are the worst. Just want to thank the community for its help and wealth of info and even though there are threads upon threads upon threads people are still nice enough to not be snarky and provide the info to me. Thank you again!!!

 

Hello guys,
Anyone happen to know the part number of this black plastic exhaust duct behind the 12v battery for gen3 prius?
I'll also appreciate a link for purchase.

 

Quarter Panel Vent, Right Side. Google Toyota part #62930B for sources & prices.

 

I got a hobby charger and started to recondition my battery. It’s a Thunder T-6 and I found a post explaining how to charge, and what amps etc. This charger gives me a little info on each charge cycle, which I think are the Miliamp hours. I’’m not exactly sure how to interpret this info. What are
The limits or when is a cell going to fail?

I’m new to this and have read a bunch of write-ups in here, and watched about a dozen YouTube videos, but no one source seems to be totally comprehensive. Is there a guide book or some definitive source that I could buy, or has that not been written yet?

 

While this is not a guide book or some definitive source for Prius HV battery reconditioning, it has some general NiMH charging info that is a good starting point, if you are interested to learn more about NiMH in general. You can then take that information and apply it to the Prius HV Battery, whether that is dealing with individual (6 cells in series) modules (nominal voltage of 7.2 V) or the full (168 cells in series) battery (nominal voltage of 201.6 V):

BU-408: Charging Nickel-metal-hydride

BU-402: What Is C-rate?

There is a lot of other good information in other NiMH articles on this site.

Just a word of caution, if your charger is not capable of stepped charging programs, I would stick to the max charge rate of 325–350 mA and max discharge rate of 500 mA rather than the maximums the table below suggests. If you are willing to experiment with higher rates, you might use the maximum rate in the 40%–80% range (as used in-service) and the minimum outside this range. If you do, it would be of interest to the community if you shared this experience. Good or not so good.

GENERAL NiMH Info:

	Chemistry	Nickel-metal-hydride	Rate of Charge (A) for Prius HV Batt
1	Abbreviation	NiMH
2	Nominal voltage	1.20V/cell
3	Charge	Taper charger. Constant current; floating voltage
4	Full charge	Observing voltage drop; plateau voltage as override
5	Trickle charge	0.05C	0.325
6	Charge rate	0.5–1C	3.25–6.5
7	Discharge rate	1C	6.5

Source: BU-215: Summary Table of Nickel-based Batteries | Battery University (with Prius Specific data added)

 

Is there a cheat sheet or reconditioning procedure in here somewhere? I know very little past disconnecting the safety plug in terms of what to do here. I'd like to see a protocol put together by the people here who know what's what that I could use as an A to Z guide to reconditioning. I don't know whether this kind of thing would be in a Factory Manual?

 

Factory manual will not have it as it is not a service the dealership would ever provide.

 

If you read this thread backward from the end, I do believe another member created a one-page summary.

 

Thank you.

 

Thank you for noting that these nuts can not be restored, they have proven un-restorable indeed. Can you suggest an online seller who has these available without the serrated bottoms? I've been searching and found these on eBay, they are listed as "Zinc" not steel, would they work?

M5-0.8 Zinc Hex Flange Nuts Metric Class 8, DIN 6923 RoHS CR+3 | eBay

 

They are M5 0.8mm coarse thread and non-serrated. I have 3 sources for these:

1) McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr

2) Toyota sells them individually. A dealership nearby has them online and cheap.

3) Amayama sells the OEM part.

The OEM part has a flange that has a slightly larger diameter then the MC part. I have observed no differences operationally with the MC nuts installed. I did choose to go with Stainless Steel.

 

Stainless steel would be the best, but it's expensive.
According to me, Toyota factory installed ordinary, not even galvanized - after rusting, there is no trace of zinc on them, only bare metal

DO NOT ORDER ON eBay, it doesn't make sense. Go to the first from the edge of the DIY store The cost is about $ 1-2 for the whole
You can take these "golden" screws from below as an example, they are the same as the module terminals.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

As for stainless steel they have a good price, it is a pity that 50 pcs packages. You have to buy 2 packages, do they also have items?



Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

HELP, is urgent:
I don't have time to read all 122 pages, so please don't be angry with me, but I have a request: please write the parameters to set the Carsoon antimatter....
discharge: what amperage and what voltage? (I use the "factory settings" => discharge to 2V with 1A)
charge: what amperage and what voltage? (I use the "factory settings" => charge with 1A, until 8,2V)
formatting: what amperage and what voltage? (I use "factory settings" => 1A , discharge until 2V and charge until 8,2V)
The factory setting are ok or I ruined the cells?
( have the HV battery on the table, and I need to "repair" some elements before I mounted it back on)
Thanks!