I am hopeful to finally have these parts in hand the first week of the new year! then I can finally see if I can have my 2013 PIP drive up to 80mph in EV mode! I did not think it would take this long to locate these parts let alone acquire them. I have learned to have a lot of patience this 2023...
That's the detuned A engine going in the 2 l I believe that's the engine that was in the Camry that had so many problems I wouldn't want to have to put my trust in it in one of my Prius It's very similar to the ZZ and design and there are Camrys all over the country in perfect condition with blown engines sitting around.
oh no... its the M20A-FXS which didn't start in the Camry until 2019, however, I have one from the Lexus UX250h.
No way. The gen3s are disappearing faster than gen2s in my area. Plus it is faster and more compatible to install a properly rebuilt gen3 engine without the ring problems which lead to the clogged egrs. Then drive another 150k miles from an engine perspective. The brake booster and cat or repeats will make things worse by 300k. This problem has been serious for more than five years but most believe it won’t happen to them because… The worse thing are used car buyers financing 175k time bombs for 9%. And then the surprised owner tries her first mechanic job and it’s a head gasket and timing chain project.
The original Toyota's are a lot better than this newfangled nonsense The new way is to spend thousands and thousands and thousands and thousands of dollars every few years on your car That's just people expect that now You guys are talking 5,000 engine changes and stuff. An older Toyota would never have any part of that My TE51s my TE72s my RA21s all of that stuff they never had an engine change in their lives unless you were doing something specialty with the car like auto crossing or racing. In Toyota the real garbage didn't start until I don't know about 2007 to 9 somewhere in there everything became real Americanized like overnight seemingly things just got blown into weirdness quick. So your generation twos and older Corollas they'll last generations unless you're in a place where the metal will get ate up by rust and salt but anywhere else. You go down to Florida and places and you can see 74 Corolla SR5s driving on the road in like mint condition other than they're old.
In the early days Yamaha just did the head work built special heads like for the 2000 GT the 3S GTE beams edition engines that were going to be used for high RPM applications and what have you I didn't know Yamaha built the complete engines A lot of heads were stamped Yamaha the early two valve wide-angle heads that were used for performance were often of Yamaha origin this is all before TRD even existed this is way back 3 TGTE 4T GTE days that was like a 1981 to 3 this is when Toyota had a group b rally car for one year a Toyota Celica with a 4t GTE in it that made around 300 plus horsepower turbo.
I have some of those Yamaha headed engines sitting right here in the carport. They'll never be used again nothing to fit them in that sort of thing old technology all of that but they were fun engines in the time they were used Good stuff well made very reliable none of the nonsense like going on today let me tell you throwing heads on and head gaskets on a 2Z no sir The 22 rs the T-Series engines even the little K engines 1.1 l that were stuffed in racing boats these engines rarely had these kinds of failures and I mean rarely
so the 1LR-GUE because you dont have one in the carport doesn't play a role in your agreement regarding the best Yota motors being the ones built by Yamaha?
I understood the head gasket failure was due to cylinder temp differential. Why would added heat dump solve CHT differentials?
It doesn’t need to be that complicated. I am sucessfully running a 4th gen 2018 engine and it’s complete EGR system in a 2011. I simply choked down the EGR flow where the gases are fed into the intake manifold. A quick MIG weld bead around the inside of the flange fixed it up nicely. I reduced the pipe’s ID by roughly 1/3 and it cured the stumble at partial throttle from excessive EGR flow. Works fantastically if you’re determined to use the 4th Gen EGR, and every 20-30k miles I’ll simply remove the 90* pipe right up front and send a brush through that spot to prevent buildup.
Also I might add: 1) my engine does not have the bypass hose exiting the timing cover and wrapping around the back of the block. 2) I haven’t had a single cooling issue. I also plumbed the cooling system differently than most do when they swap. I have a USA market motor for one, so everything’s different from the JP/EU. I couldn’t follow the online guides. My coolant exits the back of the engine and is routed to the EGR cooler first. The small fitting on top then passes through the EGR valve and throttle body. The large line goes from the EGR cooler, down to the cat, then through the heater core before returning to standard plumbing. Factory is heater core => cat => EGR. I see no reason to dump the heat of the cat into the EGR. I sent it into the radiator directly. My car has never been above 198*F when monitored in datastream. I’m 5,500 miles after the swap and haven’t seen a 100* day yet
Two things: minor thing first, none of the coolant goes to the cat. The coolant goes to the EHRS heat exchanger, which is the next lump in the exhaust pipe after the second cat. Second, the factory gen 3* routing comes back up from the EHRS exchanger to a nipple at the top forward end of the EGR cooler. That's the downstream end of the cooler, so that hot coolant isn't dumping any heat into the EGR. That nipple is just provided there at the downstream end of the cooler so Toyota doesn't need a separate plumbing tee there to get the EHRS return going back to the engine. Ok, three things. In the factory routing, that return doesn't go to the radiator directly, it just goes to the bypass nipple at the thermostat housing. * the factory gen 4 routing also doesn't have EHRS return going into the EGR, but just returning to the engine directly, same as gen 3. This drawing, you can see, is for the JP/EU builds with the bypass around the back and the selector valve; I don't have a diagram handy for the US build, but I'd be surprised if they changed where the EHRS return went.