Gen 2 PCV replacement how-to with photos

This tutorial was a huge help! I did the valve on my wife's car today (at 120k). 50 minutes puts me behind the professional's pace, but it was remarkably easy thanks to the foreknowledge of how deep to disassemble things and in what order.

The old valve seemed like it might have been OK, but I was worried by what looked like a stain around the oil fill cap at the last oil change. At least I don't have to worry about it anymore.

 

I did the PCV replacement job today and it went well, thanks to the great write up by Galaxee-- I'm sure I'm just one of many who appreciates the detailed photos and write-up. My car is a 2006 with 117k miles.
I used a "go-thru" ratchet with a 19mm socket to loosen the old PCV valve and install the new one, which made it easy.
After I finished up I inspected the old valve and it allowed air pressure to pass in both directions, which according to the Bentley manual (section 6-4) indicates that the valve is stuck open. I'm glad I replaced it.

 

I checked yesterday the PCV on a 2005 Prius with 250 000 kms.
it was not necessary to remove the wipers and so on, only the relaybox and the connectors to coils and injectors.
I used also a ratchet with a 19mm socket.

as I removed also the complete box of the air filter for inspection,
the job took 15 mn to dismantle and check it.
to put back everything, the time was also 15mn

the test showed : this valve was in perfect condition; when blowing through, air was passing only one way....

 

I tried to do this tonight, but I couldn't get the damn wipers to come loose. =( Any tips?

 

Damn, I wish I had tried it without removing the wipers and cowl because I already had the intake box, coilpacks, etc. out since I was cleaning the throttle body & MAF, and changing the spark plugs.

UPDATE: I was able to install the PCV without removing the cowl & wipers just like what the other members have stated. Just make sure you have a long 19mm open-end wrench or a deep socket.. but not too deep 'cause the inverter coolant reservoir gets in the way.

 

Thanks Galaxee for the post and the walk through. Great info.

Rae, I asked Tejas Toyota how much, they quoted $180 for the job. Typical stealer...

 

Is it also possible to remove/clean out the PCV hose without removing the cowl, wipers, etc...? How easily does the L-shaped cover lift off?

Also, is it recommended to remove the air filter box on top of the throttle body?

 

Thanks for the "how to"!!

 

+1

I tried to get away with not removing the wipers, etc. but in t end it was the fastest/easiest way to do the job. Thanks!

 

Wanted to take the time to thank the OP. Took my time and completed in about 80 minutes. I changed my at 151,000 miles, but still rattled. I did do it exactly as described by the OP, only damage was the plastic pins, broke one, and will need to find a replacement or just use a bolt and nut to hold the plastic in place.

 

I'm in the same boat with the broken clip, I'm sure a nut and bolt will do the trick but it may corrode pretty fast. My other bolts in that area were rusted pretty good. My PCV was seized up and I had to use a breaker bar and 19mm deep socket to get it out. Was afraid to use penetrating oil as I don't know where those chemicals would wander into later. The PCV still rattled though, it was just a PITA to remove.

 

Why go through all the trouble to replace it? Just do what this guy did! HAHA

In all seriousness tho, has anyone ever thought to try and feed some sea foam through the hose? The hose is up front and easy to access and sea foam works great on things. Pour some down, let it soak, over night maybe, then reconnect.

Also, couldn't you test this by using same said hose and just blowing and sucking on it to test proper function? May not taste the greatest but brushing your teeth is quicker then this job... just an idea...

 

Just changed the PCV without removing the cowl and wipers. Took about 30 minutes and was really easy and just took wrench extensions...no big deal. I highly suggest trying it before going through with removing the cowl and wipers.

At 87K miles my PCV did have a little oil in it, but it rattled freely just like the new one I installed.

 

Thanks for pointing that out. When I went to do this I looked for the dots and guess what? The driver's side wiper was about 2" too high! The last person to work on it probably didn't know about the dots and just guessed about the wiper position.

 

If you do take the cowl off, check the wiper pan's drains while you're at it too. Mine were totally plugged. There are two, outside the three center screws on either side. Here it's visible. If you look at the earlier pictures in post #1, it looks like it's full of dirt. The pan can fill with water, which then sloshes out the sides and onto the strut tops.

 

all,

If anybody goes as far as shown in the picture in post #55 (to do spark plugs or PCV valve, etc.) and you've ever found signs of a rodent nest above the cabin filter, then you need to screen off the 5 openings that can be seen in this picture above [3 by the word "Drain" (what looks like a large square directly behind the "D" of Drain, and then a vertical rectangle to the left of that, and the 3rd disappearing into the shadows under the curve of the windshield at the top of the photo near the driver's side hood hinge) and the other 2 openings that let the mice in are at the left of the photo (another large square one and to the left of that a half moon or letter "D" shaped one)].

I screened off mine with something called "Gutter Guard" from my local hardware store. I moved the location of the clips that came attached to the Gutter Guard & drilled some little holes & used screws & star style lockwashers where I didn't have clips (& smeared a little grease at both the front & back sides of the holes to prevent rust before installing the screening). With any leftover material, you might also want to screen off the open end of the engine's air intake tube (over near the windshield washer reservoir). Do it at the open end rather than inside the airbox (as some have done---only to have their engines starve for air when their whole tube has filled with debris).

Ken (in Bolton,Ct)

 

-
about $120...

 

^ In today's $'s, or 2008 currency?

 

My beautiful 2005 is a little over 120k and I have ordered my NGK plugs and are eh route. Is there a way to check the PCV valve condition before ordering and replacing. I haven't seen any real issue with our Prius, and didn't want to do any unnecessary wrenching.

 

The only way to check the condition is to remove the PCV valve. And if you gone through the trouble to do that you might as well replace it since it's a cheap part. I replaced mine without removing the cowl. Just get creative and use wrench extensions. It's easy to do yourself.

XT1080 ?