Gen 2 Hybrid Battery: Still error after replacement of one bad cell

So much grass more or less when regenerating Yourself at home. Guys doing this professionally need about 3 days (they just have much more equipment than one charger).
I do not know how long does FR-PL courier service takes, but I suspect that it will not last longer than 2 days.
Anyway, one to 1 - 1,5 weeks must be assumed.
Unless You replace only the weak modules and leave the rest as it is. But from this version I'd rather replace all of them in Your place, e.g. For such 2 years old and while try to sell old ones to get some money back... Already having a charger at home, You can calmly test old modules for sale to avoid problems.

Now I thought it would be a good solution - It is a pity that I did not think about it before, before I regenerated my package )))

It is possible that when You buy the entire package, the price will be lower than the retail price. I don't know, I should ask. If anything, let me know, I will check it even for comparison.

Unfortunately, Toyota is not in the habit of exchanging individual modules, which is a pity because they could earn more on it
Try as they will at least you can pull out at least information which modules according to them are weak. Although I suspect it will be hard with this.[/QUOTE]

I hope You find. Good luck
And if you write priv or @.

Trifle. I have been through this myself recently, so I understand perfectly how frustrating it is in Europe ... US is much easier



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Some of the corrosions stems from the modules though.
The new bus bars and nuts can also rake care of rust

 

Nope, sorry. The HV battery is integral to the hybrid system.

 

You write that the same block indicated low voltage after replacing #6 module in Block 3.

The numbering of the modules is from Right-to-Left (if the orange safety plug is on your Left side). Is it possible you replaced a module in Block 12 instead of 3?

 

If the replacment module also went low, I'd be looking at harness/spacebar/nuts for clean, tight connection. Did you clean/brush your hardware with baking soda before reinstalling?

 

Not sure if vinegar and salt will do this but the baking soda (and water) reacts in the presence of acid. If there are any hairline cracks (leaks) around the casing you'd probably be able to see it. If your modules have any cracks around the terminals, you might see them.

 

I went with Option 2 for my Gen 2. No issues so far with 10K + miles

 

The problem here is there is a quality control process that takes place with every set on delivery to newpriusbatteries so it is not likely you can avoid the double shipping.

Chinese manufacturing makes things to their end customer's specifications. Even if the same factory produces the same product for two different end customers (for example, remote control car battery chargers) they will not necessarily be the same quality, spec, or price point. That is all driven by the end customer.

The second thing is there are different factories, so there are different quality, spec, and price points. They are not all equal just like the same product made by different companies in every other country on the planet.

 

4. Buy the entire battery from a car with a mileage of 50-60k km (Prius III / IV), put only the modules into Yours battery - 500-800€
(usually start-up warranty)

5. Buy only modules from a 1-3 year old car, tested and proven - 35-40€/pieces = 950 - 1100€
(usually 3-6 months warranty)

When buying Chinese modules, we get the same guarantee as at the junkyard trader, which is none

Ps. If You decide to use and want modules from EU, You can send me a private message - I will check what "my people" has in the best at the moment.

... Recently I purchased battery from a 3rd gen for a friend. He did not want to wait for a check and insisted on fitting it as it came... Surprisingly, corroded and not cleaned, it goes over 4km EV

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Just a few notes here from when I went through this problem several years ago....

Because of the rather sketchy nature of aftermarket hybrid battery supply and repair, I went the route of fixing the problem myself.
I got an old donor battery from the salvage yard, dissassembled it, and bought a specialized battery charger/discharger/recondition cycler to work on the individual 8V cells. Hobby centers sell them for remote control airplane, car, and drone batteries. Mine was called 250W 10A Reaktor.

After taking the 5 healthiest cells off the donor, I ran complete reconditioning on them using the Reaktor, and took the one that most closely matched the about 4500-5500mAhr capacity of the rest of the cells in my current battery (throwing a new 7000mAhr cell into a pack of weaker ones can set off the computer, apparently).

After load testing with the meter all of the 28 cells of the battery in my car (Tricky!...Driving the car, in reverse, slowly up a large hill, while simultaneously watching the display of the meters hooked up to each of the cells, without the gas engine starting and running so it's just running off the battery voltage, 28 times....phew....) I identified the failed cell.

Then I removed the battery and replaced that failed cell. Put the battery back in the car and had the same problem you did.
Re-load tested, and found that as soon as the one bad cell was replaced with a good strong one, the next weakest one took the full load and it failed immediately. Evidentally, the weakest one had been sort of shielding the second weakest one from completely failing.

So I had to take the battery out again and replace that second cell. That did the trick, almost.

Even with all the cells updated and working well, the computer didn't like it. Although the car would drive, the computer kept rejecting the battery and going into limp mode.

I had tried to match the individual cells voltages and level of charge individually, using my single cell charger and meter, but don't waste your time with that, it will not work. You have to balance your battery afterwards with a grid charger or some other device. I had to get the Prolong Charger/Reconditioner to do that. I had to sit around and wait for it to be delivered, and then the process took three additional days, but that finally solved all of the problems once and for all.

One more thing; bad connections between them can make healthy cells look bad to the computer, even if they are actually working fine, individually. Thoroughly clean your battery bus bars and nuts before re-assembly. Corrosion will cause your individual cell voltages to read out of spec for the computer, and it will keep giving you errors. I tumbled mine in a sand tumbler and then used this electronic grease-like sealer on them. Then use a torque wrench to retighten them to the correct torque. Do not guess. This can give you a voltage drop across your bus bar connections if under torqued. This drop will only show under load, so you will miss it, if just checking for it with the meter while sitting in the garage. Over torqueing can break the terminals.

Use the Prolong on the battery and do the whole program on it, it takes about three days but it is well worth the wait. I use it every year on mine when spring time rolls around, and I haven't had a problem with it since.

Hope this helps, and good luck.