GEN 1 prius P3106 powertrain code and vehicle stalls

Toyota's opinion should probably be represented in the thread too (whether or not anyone thinks it's the last word): the check in the gen 1 repair manual (2001 edition, page DI-8, "BASIC INSPECTION", step 1) is "Is the battery positive voltage 11 V or more", and you "charge or replace battery" if it isn't. I'm pretty sure that's the same threshold as in the later repair manuals.

There are several ECUs in the car that measure their own supply voltages and can give trouble codes if they measure low. The C1241 code from the brake ECU is one example. The thresholds for those codes generally fall in the 8.5 to 9.5 volt range. Remembering, of course, those aren't readings of the battery under no load, but actual voltages seen in operation when a load may be pulling it down.

Certainly it's never a bad idea to check the battery voltage, and in particular if you have any of the voltage-based trouble codes, it becomes an even better idea.

Back when I had a gen 1, it typically started ok down to 9 volts or a little less; it would, of course, log the voltage-related codes, but didn't go 'haywire' or present bogus codes or anything. Below 8 volts I'd more often need to jump it or swap in my spare battery, but again there'd be no weirdness after. I had a fair amount of experience with that, as I usually had some half-baked mod project or other in the works and ran down my 12-volt battery more times than I'd have liked.

 

Is there enough insulation left visible for you to tell what color it was?

 

Dang, I've been gone. Did I ever send you the electrical manual? Sorry for the delay.

 

According to the diagram, the black wires from the relay EFI and fuse also go to the sensors located on the catalyst.
After the catalyst was stolen, were the remaining wires insulated and plugged?
Free movement wires may cause a short circuit and blown fuse.
What value of the new fuse was inserted in place of the blown one?

 

Well, dang, sorry about that. The hurricane here put me off my routine. Glad you're moving forward.

 

Oxygen sensors provide feedback for the correct operation of the engine fuel system.
Having detected a lower amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas, the oxygen sensors send a signal to the ECU, which reduces the fuel supply. And vice versa, increases the fuel supply when there is excess oxygen.
This maintains the stoichiometric composition of fuel and air.
If the oxygen sensor is missing or is not working properly, the system operates in emergency mode.

 

Unfortunately, the high-voltage battery is not self-leveling. The difference between the electrical parameters of adjacent modules and the battery as a whole leads to the creation of conditions for an error to occur.

Р3006 Delta SOC is high.

Nothing critical. But it is necessary to level all 38 modules by voltage, and if some pair of modules is bad, then some of the modules will have to be replaced.

 

P3006 is definitely related to the HV battery, probably that one cell that shows low in your photo, plus the uneven levels across the cells.

IIRC, P1437 was set in my ‘02 due to that pesky little flapper valve in the exhaust line; it rusts up because it’s exposed to the elements (water, salt, etc.) down there under the vehicle.

 

It's directly related to the P3006 code, when the battery is out of balance it creates heat. At first the fan runs on high, but when that no longer keeps the battery cool enough the car goes into 'limp mode', where it give up on the HV battery and generates all the electrical power using the gas engine (high rpms).

Finding and replacing bad battery modules can fix the issue, but I've found this is only a temporary solution since it's only a matter of time before other modules start to fail. The best solution is to purchase a new HV battery pack from Toyota (if any are still available), but there are other options like after market rebuilt packs, or packs made with new modules from other manufacturers.

 

My son's car set code P1436 and the exhaust flap was no longer moving on it's own. I was able to push the linkage to the opposite side -- don't know if that's open or closed -- cleared the code, and so far it hasn't returned.

 

Guess I was one digit off with the code! I've heard that you can spray the moving parts of that flap with some hi-temp lube of some sort. If you can get it to work that way, you've saved yourself a lot of $$. I think that part is not available anymore. I had the entire exhaust line replaced a couple of years ago due to that flapper failure.

 

I have all these parts if anyone needs them.