Fog Lights: Install [Retrofit] fog lights on 2010 Prius?

Part III of the fog light install, usual disclaimer applies. See my other posts.


This step is for the running the wires. Pictures follow each step.

1. Using my fingers only, I slightly lifted the flashing at the marked points, upward slightly, and then toward the passenger side. It pops off.

2. I unscrewed the nut in the picture. It is finger tight only. (Note that for reassembly, this nut just gets pushed on, not turned). I then lifted the flashing up at that point to clear the screw,, and continued to pull at an angle (in the direction of the passenger side rear seat). It should pop off, but added pressure might have been needed at the spot marked clips (apply pressure toward the passenger side). If the blue clips stay in the car, they need to be removed with pliers, and then reinserted into the flashing before reassembly.

3. I removed the screw. Pulled out and up at points A do disengage the clips, then out and slightly down at the clips marked B. To remove the hood release, I lifted up on it (which popped the hood open) and underneath, there is a clip that is part of the white plastic. Release this clip and slide the assembly toward the floor to remove. Then, I removed all of the wire connectors, and removed this piece, exposing the ECU.

4. I removed the two screws, and then disengaged the clip. The flashing slides out. The plastic stud slides through the square hole, it is NOT clipped in. I had to remember to put this back in the square hole when reassembling. The underside has two wire harnesses, and a clip that holds the wires on. I unclipped all of them to remove the piece.

That's it for the disassembly. Now, for the wiring.

5. I soldered the wire onto the pin, and pressed it into the harness at the above location. Not that I removed the harness first! While pressing the clip, The black level flips downward, the harness can then be removed. After the pin was pressed in (using a needle-nose pliers to carefully push it into place (there was no click sound). I did however pull on the wire to confirm that it was in secure. I then replaced the harness. If I was using an aftermarket switch, I would have skipped this step. In it's place, I would have simply connected this wire to one side of the switch, and then connected the other side of the switch to a nearby ground point as per my wiring diagram.

6. The wire followed this path. I tucked it through the gap on the side of the ECU where the other wires were run, and then ran it downward.

7. This is the path I followed. I used wire ties looped around the wire in the picture. Note that I slid some of that black plastic over the wire from this point forward considering it carries positive voltage. If it were a ground wire, I would not have.

8. This shows the rest of the path to the rubber plug that goes to the engine room. There was a hole just to the passenger side of the plug. The hole doesn't go all the way through. I used a screwdriver to pop the rest of the way. It's only a few millimeters thick. I was careful to avoid hitting any of the existing wires, which was why I stayed to the passenger side of the plug. I imagine that this hole could be in different places on other people's cars if it was rotated slightly when installed. Not a big deal, a small screwdriver can puncture this gasket enough to get a wire though. My hole was so small, that the rubber stayed very tight against the wire, sealing it up well.

9. AFTER I used this screwdriver to put a hole in the rubber gasket, I then taped the wire to it and pushed it through, grabbing the other side from the engine room. I pulled the wire through to get rid of the slack.

10. This is a great picture. It shows virtually the whole run of the wire. Not that the red wire is inside of the black plastic shroud. On the left of the picture you can see where it goes up into the back of the ECU shown in picture 6. It then runs across the footwell and into and through the rubber firewall plug.

11. This is where it emerges. Well, sort of, this did not photograph well.

12. This is it zoomed in a bit more. Note that only the red wire was pushed through the rubber hole, not the black plastic shroud. I did however add more of the black plastic shroud after I pulled the wire through the engine compartment. It followed this path.

13. This is the rest of the path. Note that I have not yet put the wire in place in that picture. But the path I followed should be clear. I used wire ties to hold everything in place. The arrow points to the headlight, from there, the wire goes straight down to the foglight. I used wire ties looped around the other wire harnesses that are already there.

14. From under the car, I removed the flashing just behind the front bumper. There is one clip in the center. the rest use silver (zinc) screws. Course threads in the front, and machine threads in the back. I was careful not to overtighten them on reassembly. Once removed, the wire connecting the driver's side fog to the passenger side was wire tied up there, and the flashing was replaced. I then put the corner flashing pieces back to cover the fogs. I lowered the jacks, and put the interior trim pieces back together.

15. That's it! Fog lights complete. (**Edit** After seeing them on for the first time at night, I realized that I forgot a crucial step. They need to be adjusted! The screw on the back of the light, with the toothed washer, is the adjusting screw. It's An easy step, but a very critical one).

 

Wow! Nice writeup! Fantastic! Just fan-freakin-tastic! Thank you! At the risk of sounding ungrateful (which I'm definitely not), were there pictures to go with steps 1-3? Your numbered photos started at 4, so I was just curious. If not, there is MORE than enough information here to get it done, so don't go to any trouble - just thought I'd see if maybe they were overlooked. Thanks again for the great work and as soon as my new pin comes in (I ordered it), I'll be following your footsteps!

 

I'm not sure why they are not there. I'll upload them again.

Problem has been corrected.

 

Now that people are getting this down, where did everyone come up with what parts and cost:

1 fog lights x 2
2 fog lights trim right and left
3 cost of the mod
4 any other parts that I am missing

Thanks

 

1 fog lights x 2 = $43.99 (ebay, aftermarket kit made for Yaris)
2 fog lights trim right and left = $81.01 (inc. WA 9.6% tax)
3 cost of the mod = $5 (few tie-wrap, electrical tape, wire)
4 no other parts used.

GRAND TOTAL = $130

This is probably the cheapest way to go that looks decently OEM but not quite genuine OEM.

The kit I bought, the light assembly doesn't have any SAE/DOT mark. If you have a state visual inspection or this concerns you in anyway, try other lights that are little bit more expensive. I think one of us bought a kit that has these markings on the lens.

The switch, although looks OEM, will illuminate orange like mentioned previously. So if this bothers you, go with genuine stalk switch.

Also, I believe using stalk switch and utilizing factory relay and wiring, will light up the "fog light" indicator on the instrument panel if I am correct. I will miss that..

tj

 

So the lights came from ebay
the trim rings came from Toyota Parts ?

Thanks

 

1. Both fog lights bought from aftermarket Yaris kit. Includes wiring and switch - total = 40 bucks

2. Both trim pices, ordered from autopartspeople.com for about 30 bucks each - total = 60

3. I bought the OEM headlight stalk with fog light button. This is optional. It cost 90 bucks.

4. Total cost of mod was about $225 with shipping fees. Total time spent, about 3 to 3.5 hours.

 

Are you happy with the H11 bulbs that came with the fog lights? I put my old headlight bulbs (had them removed bc I installed HIDs) in place of the H11s that came with the fog light kit. I figured if the whole kit was $40 the bulbs had to be pretty dang cheap.

I've been trying to find some H11 bulbs that have a nice look like my 4300 K HIDs. I've almost pulled the trigger on the PIAA ultra whites. But it seems that if you order bulbs that say they are white in reality they end up looking yellow. And if you order bulbs that say they are blue in reality they end up looking white. So I may order some blue H11s and see how that works out. I'd love to do HIDs for the fogs but I'm not sure how bad that would blind people.

 

Hawkmoon, you have documented your foglight installation so completely. Thank you!

I'm sure it is listed in this thread somewhere, but what is the Toyota part number for the OEM stalk that has the foglight switch?

I found a source for the LH and RH fog lamp covers (p/n 81482-47020 and 81481-47020) that is lower than directly from Toyota. The source is toyotapartscheap.com. Their price is $36.81 each, while the Toyota price is $46.01. Toyotapartscheap.com identifies those covers by the Toyota part number, so I assume they are OEM parts rather than something made elsewhere. Anyone ever buy from them?

 

parts.com and autopartspeople.com also both list those covers for that exact price, fwiw, and I had no problem with parts.com.

 

Thanks, Rachael.

Then I'll buy my covers from parts.com.

 

I will be very interested in seeing pictures from your installation, particularly your specific wiring and installation of the panel switch.

I'm guessing that following Hawkmoon's first three steps gets me access to the back of the dash panel so that I can install the switch. Correct?

I'm not particularly worried about whether or not the switch glows green or orange.

Tom

 

Fantastic write up and photos!! Thanks, hawkmoon! OK, now here's the weird part. I was working on this today - I had not looked at your post. When I was done and saw this, my routing was virtually identical to yours, including through the engine compartment fluid reservoirs, etc. Weird....

I do have one comment that might help you and others, regarding the pin insertion into 2C pin 8:

I think the reason you didn't hear a click is that it may not be engaged all the way. That 2C connector (and most similar connectors) has a locking "bar" on one side, that you have to lift up slightly to remove or insert any pins. You can use a small (eyeglass-size) screwdriver into two small slots on the locking bar and pry up slightly. It only comes up about 1mm - don't force it beyond that. And make sure both ends of the bar are "up". When I inserted mine today, it definitely clicked in place. Once it's in, press the bar back down so it's flush with the connector shell. I've attached a illustration from the Toyota Wire Harness repair pdf (mentioned earlier in this post, I think), and a couple of photos of a smaller connector with this type of bar, showing where you need to insert the screwdriver to lift the bar and release the pin. The larger 2C connector is similar.

Again, great job! Mine work great, but I won't be using them right away - I have on order a headlight stalk for Canada vehicles that has both the fog light switch and the "Auto" headlight position, since I got my auto headlights finished today as well, using only factory circuits and sensor! I will write up that post after I get some sleep...

For those who are interested, the Canada stalk part number is 84140-07141. (It used to be 84140-48200, but recently was superseded). Again, don't order this stalk unless you want the "Auto" position and are willing to do some additional work to activate or install the Auto headlights. If not, you'll have a useless "Auto" position, that will also shut your lights off.

I don't know the part number for the US stalk with only Fog Lights. I thought it had been posted, but couldn't find it...Hawkmoon, care to share the part number (maybe again?)

 

One oddity - even though I'm using the factory circuits, the "fog light" indicator in the instrument display does not come on. Hawkmoon, does yours?

Rachaelseven, have you seen anything using your J2534 programmer for the fog lights or indicator?

 

Mine doesn't light up either.

 

I went through pretty much all the ECUs, looking for anything interesting, and I don't recall anything about the fog light indicator. I'll go hook it up when I get a minute and see if it shows up under the instrument cluster ECU - if there is a light there, Techstream should have a test function to light it up. But I'm 99% sure there is no setting to activate it or anything like that. More to follow as soon as I get a moment to play.

 

Hmm...that's going to be a tricky one to fix, if it can be fixed at all. It's in the wiring or communication between the display and the ECU. Not sure if we have enough info on that path. I'll research when I get a chance.

 

Just confirming that I did not find anything in Techstream regarding the fog lamp indicator... no sign it even exists, in fact. No test function to light it up, no option to enable or disable it, just no sign of it. I didn't see it on my idiot light check, either... are we sure there even is an indicator there? Can someone with a V confirm that? Maybe a different combination meter ECU on the V?

 

Thanks rachaelseven. The indicator is in the owners manual, page 186, but it does say "if equipped", so I suspect you're right, possibly a different ECU or combination meter assembly for the V.

The following document on TIS discusses it, but don't give enough detail to know whether the function is present on all models.

METER / GAUGE / DISPLAY: METER / GAUGE SYSTEM: DATA LIST / ACTIVE TEST (2010 Prius)

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It might be possible see in the "Data List" in Techstream whether there is an indicator signal present - but probably not worth the effort.​

This would have been nice, but it's definitely a feature I can live without. The road illumination is all I really need to tell me the fogs are on...

 

You're very welcome, J, and feel free to call me R7 for short, or just plain ol' Rachael

I did peruse the data list in Techstream and while it did list the on/off state of various other indicator lamps, it made no mention of the fog lamp indicator - lending more weight to the theory that either the ECU or combination meter are simply different in the I-IV models. But I'll check again next time I hook up, probably this weekend when Hobbit and I get to play techs on his Gen II and my Gen III to compare notes.