First time preventative maintenance

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by avoice217, Dec 31, 2024.

  1. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    What do you hope to accomplish? Do you suspect water in the fuel?
    Restoration stuff doesn’t REALLY work.
    Get a quart size bottle of the Marvel Mystery Oil and pour half of it in the fuel tank
    the next time you fill up, then fill the tank.

    After you’ve gone through a few fill up, pour the other half in.

    I use it all the time and it does work for me! I notice a difference.


     
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    You don't need to prep too much. Some of the relatively esoteric tools are mandatory, some are just "nice to have". Ones you might not have, but are pretty much mandatory:

    Mandatory:

    E8 Torx socket

    Near-mandatory:

    E6 Torx socket (for the hold-down studs on the throttle body. You can leave them on the intake manifold, but they might get bent during cleaning.)

    1/4" drive torque wrench (if you want to stand a chance of getting the torque right, for the studs, throttle body fasteners)

    Handy:

    Ratcheting 12 mm box wrench (for the rearmost nuts on the cooler, just speeds it up)

    Maybe:

    Finger ratchet tool (iffy, might come in handy)

    Also: there are prep things you can do. I'd strongly recommend getting the EGR cooler bracket lower hold-down nut, AND the stud it goes on, any time in advance, and leave it off. Be very careful backing out the stud, it will likely be half-frozen. It's a bear to get at, all the more reason to do it in advance. Too, remove, lube and reinstall the stud/nut going holding the EGR valve to the head. Ditto for the bolt on the top EGR cooler bracket.

    A full tool summary, and tips, in the top two links in my signature. On a phone turn it landscape to see signatures.

    Addendum, few more thoughts:

    If you get the EGR cooler lower bracket nut and stud off, you no longer need to remove the two EGR cooler rearmost studs. This means the gasket at that connection will stay on, hanging on the studs when you pull the cooler/valve assembly forward and out. It also helps with install, you can just hang the gasket on the studs. You will find the assembly bumps a bracket and pipe above, on the way out: just loosen it's mounting bolt and it can be fudged up enough to clear.

    In the second of the aforementioned links in my signature, there's tip for avoiding virtually all coolant spillage. Give it a try.

    When taking off the gaskets, note the orientation. Around each centre hole, the gasket is dimpled, in one particular direction. When most take those gaskets off (myself included) they lose track of which direction the dimples go. If it's your first time taking it off, they should be oriented correctly, from the factory. It'd be great if you could note the orientation. I've got some idea, but not really conclusive. It may not matter that much, but maybe one direction is optimum, who knows.
     
    #42 Mendel Leisk, Jan 27, 2025
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2025