First Oil Change - Pictures/Instructions

I've only had a warped rotor once. My car had been at the local Plymouth-Jeep dealership for an oil leak.
They removed my left front tire (and a few other parts), and re-torqued my lug nuts
so tight, I had to use a 6 foot breaker-bar to loosen them.

Amazingly, once I re-torqued them evenly with my old Craftsmans torque wrench,
the grab-slip-grab-slip braking disappeared by the end of the week..

 

As an update - I did my first oil change, no surprises. But - the Fumoto drain valve was a no go for me. The F-103N (with the nipple for the rubber hose attachment) was just too low and the safety mech was facing forward, just didn't sit right for me, so I used the normal drain pain bolt - bummer too - I've loved having that thing on my last few cars.

 

Right. Do an alternating pattern as well, but over-tightening can cause warping as well.

 

great update after your last post I looked them up as I had never heard of them, looks overpriced to me, but now I know it isn't an option anyway, thanks

 

Im with you, it is best to keep your car away from the stealership! these service centers are there to make money and who they going to make money on? I think if you let them do all the things they think you should, you could buy a new car in 10 years. the things they think you should do are often not indicated. like clean your fuel injector system. this service often causes more problems than it prevents. I have cars with well over 100k that have never needed fuel injector treatment. I will follow the service reccomendations in the service schedule that came with the car. and those things I will do or have a shop do. Oil change I will do myself, and avoid the sales pitch from the stealership.

 

I think this is often the type of service you get from auto service departments. Ome time I had a car that had an issue starting so was told its the battery, so had that done. same problem a few months later was told the altinator should be replaced so they did that. a few months later same problem was told starter was bad. that did end up being the problem. but of course all those things needed replaced according to the shop. this is BS they should have tested the amount of current the starter used to start the car and I would have gotten the repair right the first time.

I can do an equilivent diagnostic work up. is called "wild nice person guess". this is only one instance but is describes the typical experiance I have encounterd over the years. I just do my own repairs. in the above situation I could have gotten a battery, starter and altinator and installed them myself for what it cost to replace the starter at the stealership. If you are able do your own maintanence

 

A lot of shops that don't specialize in a particular car use around 125 pounds. You have to request they hand torque it.

 

I found this thread after searching and want to bump it to the top. I don't see the picture of the 14mm plug on the first post and hope it's not too hard to find, I'm about to change the oil for the first time for my C after almost 30,000 miles.

And next is transmission oil change video, is there any here?

 

I don't have Prius C specific info, but can pretty much guarantee, once you get under there, it'll be pretty obvious what's the oil pan drain bolt. It's at the underside of the pan, the only one. Maybe someone with access to the Repair Manual can post instruction, torque values. FWIW, the hatchback oil pan drain bolt torque is 27 ft/lb.

Rant: it's a shame Toyota doesn't include oil change instruction in the Owners Manual. Ditto for Transaxle Fluid change, but hey, they won't even acknowledge a NEED for the latter.

Instead we get stuff like this:

 

For oil filter I will stick with wix. One of the best.

 

WIX Filters - 51394 Spin-On Lube Filter $7.63 at Amazon..