First Oil Change at less than 1000 miles

Nah, the Thailand factory has been making oil filters since before the Chinese factory. I am sure they all have more or less the same silicone ADBV. If both are being sold, it is probably a supply-chain thing. I am sure both are OK.

 

Bottom line up front:
If you're not going to keep the car longer than about 5 years or 125,000 miles do what you want.
More than likely it will not affect ANYTHING until owner 2.0 or 3.0.
Maybe think about an oil catch can and changing and checking your oil and other filters/fluids more often if you're going to keep it past 10y or 200K. Especially the engine air filter! Dirty air = Dirty oil.

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Oil war threads are a normal part of every car forum.
My advice for people who are only going to keep the car as long as the OEM extended warranty would be to 'follow MOM' or the Manufacturer's Owner's Manual.
One can almost never go far wrong doing what Mom says!

Even the G3s with the EGR cooler clogging issues nearly always made it well past the OEM extended warranty period before they popped the Head Gaskets.
G3's that DID need a heart transplant all followed a similar pattern:
Owner changed the oil or had it changed for them every 10,000 miles and never - or seldom checked other filters and fluids as outlined in the manual.
My company bought perhaps a couple dozen G3s for use as fleet vehicles and as of the last time I checked zero of them experienced EGR related head gasket issues or much of ANY issues in 10 years or 250,000 miles.
My first two are still in daily service in my turf with most of 300,000 miles on the clock.

HOWEVER (COMMA!!!!)
Our garage has a 5,000 mile oil change rule.
THAT's where you need to be honest, at least with yourself, about how long you're going to keep your car.
Most 'oil warriors' are the type that fight and die on their hill - and then buy a new car every 3-4 years.
TIFWIW.

Cars with engines that live to see 300,000 miles usually follow a predictable pattern.
More oil changes more often.
More fluid and filter checks.
More ownership of the ownership experience.

I changed the oil in my 2.7l 4-banger at 1500 miles, and used an OEM filter (available at any large retailer.)
My intentions are to use an OCI of 5,000 miles.
BUT...
My situation is slightly different.
My engine develops 305 BHP and 430 lb-ft or torque, and has a towing capacity of about 3 Priuses.
It also has a 6 quart sump because: Turbocharger.

If this truck follows the pattern set forth by my previous 6 GMC vehicles I will keep it for longer than 10 years (closer to 15) and put well over 200,000 miles on it - so I change my oil every 5k and check it every 1k - more or less.
It is highly unlikely that it will ever see the inside of a dealership again in its lifetime.

MY mileage.
YOURS will vary.

 

You could change your oil every 100 miles just to be on the safe side. Whether the engine would last any longer is another thing, though I suppose it might since you'd spend so much time not driving it due to the oil change. I agree with the others on YouTube advice on such things...it's generally worth what you pay for it.

Oil goes through the oil filter...that's what it's there for, removing particles. Various additives to oil become depleted and less effective after use, and there's a point where they don't do their job and the oil should be changed. But particles? They're filtered out.

On aircraft engines we used to have oil filters you took apart and rinsed the elements through a fine cloth to see what particles were there...it would have been interesting to see what would have been in your oil vs. the oil filter at 1000 miles, but I'd bet on nothing in the oil, or next to nothing.

At any rate, it didn't harm anything by changing it, but whatever mileage you finally get from the car probably won't be any different.

 

^^^^ Exactly this.

I did my first oil change at around 800 miles and 6 months thereafter(I put on less than 10k miles a year). My odo currently reads 5600 miles and I've had two changes so far and my third will be around the start of April.

But I owned my last Prius for about 13 years, and plan to keep this one for 15 years and up to 300k+ miles if my travel patterns change.


Oil change #1 - 800 miles - 3 July, 2023
Oil change #2 - 3000 miles - 3 Oct, 2023 (did it early to establish my preferred 1st week of Apr/Oct oil change schedule)
Oil change #3 - 7000 miles(approx) - 1 April, 2024 (approx)

 

My purpose in posting, using time, was to inform those who want the factory filter, the dealer is now selling them at a slightly higher price than the 90915-yzzn1. Which was the replacement for the long standing yzzf2.
My experience is on my first 2020 as soon as I went to N1, start up rattle noticed. On my second 2020, used with 17 k, Ford Subaru Honda dealer had oreilly Microgard on there, no rattle noticed. Upon putting N1 on this second 2020, start up rattle noticed again. I have seen other owners posting the same issue, and someone found faulty end seals on two N1’s.
Now I want to correct that rattle if I can. The oil should not drain down from the upper galleries. Not rocket science here.

 

How true, I have been ocd about cars so many times, only to get a beating at the dealer on trade in, and handing the car off to someone else. When I could have basically done the minimum.

 

That's why I never buy used cars - and I don't trade in cars that I 'use up.'
I either sell my old cars privately or gift them to a friend or relative - my last one, a 2009 GMC Sierra with a paltry 160,000 miles I gave to a brother-in-law who was down on his luck.

I could have easily gotten $2.5K - 3K in a private sell but far too many times I've seen people get ripped on both sides of the deal when unloading a car at the dealership because it's easier and more convenient.

 

That was actually my plan with my old Prius, but I just couldn't pass up the trade value bubble of the last couple years. Prior to the pandemic, my low milage, base trim 2010 was worth maybe four or five grand. I planned to hang onto it for a few more years, then give it away to a kid of a family member or close friend for their first car(safe, efficient & reliable). But the pandemic caused the value of the car to double to almost ten grand, and Toyota released the gen5 which I love. I just couldn't walk away from that much value. It was the difference between me writing a check to the dealership, and them writing a check to me(I traded in the 2010 Prius plus a 2019 Ford Ranger).

 

Someone reported two defective 90915-YZZN1 oil filters with a hole in them.

90915-10003 ADBV is red, and 90915-YZZN1 ADBV is black. It's not clear if that translates into silicone vs. cheaper rubber.

It's also not clear if these were isolated manufacturing defects.

For me, it's a moot issue because the dealer puts a 90915-YZZN1.

2 Toyota 90915-YZZN1 Cut Open - 4500 miles / 30 minutes of BG EPR | Bob Is The Oil Guy

 

Whip city wrencher guy burned the N1 valve and thought it was silicone. Doesn’t mean it is, it may be a high temp nitrile. It’s greenish black. Words are fine but testing is better. Dealer can put on the 90915-10003 now. The same filter the factory used. I don’t care what the material is as long as the oil stays up in the engine better. It may cost me $25 or so to waste some filters and maybe a quart of oil, but hope to see which is best. Fram Ultra, 10003, or something else. Maybe it isn’t the filters fault at all.
On the road during driving with other cars around etc it may not be noticeable. I hear it in a quiet area in my driveway.
Probably would have been easier and less time spent to just do what I want how I want, and not write anything.

In that link such a split in the media would still not allow oil to drain back as the inlet holes are still covered. It would allow unfiltered oil to flow into the center tube though through the crack. Probably not earth shattering. It looks like the machine tilted media to the center tube as it was assembled.

 

ADBV is?

 

Anti-Drain Back Valve

 

An oil-nerd jargon.

 

Just editorial: Anti Drain-Back Valve?

 

The correct spelling should be antidrainback valve or perhaps anti-drain-back valve. Anti-drainback valve should be acceptable, too.

 

The Toyota dealer sent me 90915-N1’s. I got a refund for the price difference. No use trying to explain to them anything.
If anyone is interested, I cut open an N1 I bought in 2020 for first Prime and one of these N1I just got.
The newer filter went back to a black adbv. Both say ARS on the valve, the maker. Both have the bypass valve showing major leak gaps to the center tube. The fit of the element is also not as tight to the center tube as the previous F2 filter. But the obvious leak path of unfiltered oil is a deal breaker. Shining a light into the center tube, holding filter very tight together, the bypass valve does not seal well to the resin seal on the element. I would not use these filters.

 

Did you cut yours open and found them to be defective or are you talking about the ones at the link?

 

My own. One from 2020 with greenish adbv, and a new one from a busy dealer, so it would be quite fresh. I rechecked with more pressure on the bypass spring, still a gap. The led flashlight is very bright so not much is missed. The gap is not large or even, but I would estimate .010 inches. To me that’s “major.” I suppose there is a way to make a hole in an intact filter in several places at the right level to see inside, and shine a light.
Putting the Fram Ultra on. I think it still has the gasket on the end cap for the bypass valve. Will look at it next year. The Fram is very recent being made late 12/23. It has louvers inside not holes. They seem to change it all the time.

 

That's not good.

I remember Fram Ultra changed the design and started having issues a couple of years ago.

Someone here posted some test results claiming that the Purolator Boss is the best oil filter.

That said, I go to the dealer for oil changes and they install the 90915-YZZN1 and 00279-BLK16-01 bulk TGMO 0W-16 SP, along with the 90430-12031 gasket for the oil drain plug.

 

On my next oil change I'm going with the F1 size filter. Larger-longer than the N1 and there's plenty of room.
I did this with my 99 Tacoma. 20 yrs/375K miles - no issues