first DIY oil change 2012 PIP

I do 4 jacks stands for rotation (well, actually snow tire install/removal, amounts to the same thing), use my smaller jack stands, raise it just enough for an inch or two clearance.

For oil changes I use my heavier jack stands, just in the front. Their minimum height is something like 15". When the car is sitting, all the oil that's gonna drain down to the pan has done just that. With the rearward tilt due to front end being raised, all you're doing is tilting oil in the pan closer to the rear side drain bolt. Not that it's going to make any more oil come out, but it's certainly not going to reduce it.

I'm a little more leery, getting under the car with all four corners on jack stands. I do it, for the transaxle fluid change, since there it's mandated to get the fill level right, but...

I like to put a thick section of tree trunk under the main cross beam, just aft of the engine bay helps with the leery.

 

If I am under the car, I support the car with jack stands and hydraulic jack.

 

I read about the Canadian Scepter ramps, bought them this Summer and now I and several of my neighbors/pals are very fond of their great construction, strength and light weight. We used them today, in fact, on two neighborhood cars because the Saturday weather was perfect for driveway car wrenchin'. These Scepter ramps eliminate all the safety issues with jacks etc.

 

Oh and BTW they're on sale now at Northern Tool: $39, down $10.