Did you really mean inches? ( "= inches ) I was thinking 18-20 feet should be plenty. (for my situation)
i meant inches from the wall plug to the box with lites and buttons. then it's the rest of the cord for a total of 20' to the plug for the car. i'm not positive tho, it's hard to find a picture of the total cord not all rolled up.
Bisco, I installed a new outlet slightly below eye-level just inside the garage and run the cord under the door when it's closed. I installed a 2-gang box with a 20 amp switch on the left that powers the 20 amp GFI duplex outlet in the right position. I have a Kill A Watt plugged in and a 4-5' cord with its right angle plug into the Kill A Watt. I plug the EVSE into the 4-5' cord and hang the EVSE box on a hook I installed 2' off the floor. The switch is to reset the Kill A Watt after each charge, so I didn't have to unplug and plug it in each time.
You can pull 30amps on 10/3 ... but the plug and receiver become the weakest links. Look at a plug chart and see the difference in heartyness between a 15 amp ... 20 amp and 30 amp plug. You also have to account for how long your cord is too ... not just amperage. .
thanks uk! i just finished installing a 15 amp gfci at eye level, should be perfect. i ran 12-2 w/g in case i want to change to 240v down the road.
Why does Toyota tell us to use a GFCI outlet when their EVSE has GFCI functionality? How many levels of protection are needed, anyway
You only get GFCI protection from the point where the GFCI is. So it's better to have it built into the breaker or at least the outlet. Yes, having it in the EVSE and breaker is redundant, but it just might save your bacon (or not fry it!) if you happen to plug into an outlet that doesn't have a GFCI.
The only reason you'd really want GFCI in the outlet that you're plugging your EVSE in to is if you're using an extension cord. Otherwise, GFCI isn't necessary and often can cause nuisance trips if they are too sensitive (your typical outlet GFCI is more sensitive than the GFCI in the EVSE).