Excessive oil consumption. Issue resolved by Toyota.

I used regular Motor Flush and not the synthetic, but I think that either would work.

 

I used and continue using valvoline 5w30 full synthetic. Now at 140k miles engine appears to be holding at about 2000 miles per qt burned.

 

What would that be

 

This what my Catch Can had in it.

 

Something about maintenance I think, I wasn’t listen at the moment.

 

Just following up with your report. Looks like something maybe worth trying before cleaning the EGR circuit, PCV and intake do the head.

Any best recommendations for cleaning?

Thinking pressure wash the ECG Cooler and rest of circuit. Not aggressively with the cooler as that makes me nervous can leak as I was wondering with using oven cleaner might be aggressive and need like baking soda to neutralize and then rinse with pressure washer and then distilled water an lube. I have two cans of walmart carb cleaner for the rest and thinking since more polar of a mix, might be better on the plastic than brake cleaner. Though the chlorinated or not chlorinated are different. I also have some K100 that does work well for cleaning small engine carbs... not sure if I'd leave in my tank to sit though.

Any recommendations for solvents or cleaners to use for the sensors in the circuit/loop/flow also?

I ordered Fel-Pro intake manifold gaskets and an OCC today, picked up an engine air filter and am about to order a PCV valve since the pricing seems way better online. Some parts are close in price and I just go to the dealership for those, oil and air filter depending on dealer recently. Other's seem corrupt, the pricing not only meaning when cheap.

So finally wondering, is there a best PCV valve or any recall PCV valves to add to this thread maybe as more a cause?

Guessing the OEM one is the best, 12204-37010. Thinking I'll start a new post also regarding best rated PCV valve also.

 

Pressure wash the cooler to clear it out. Depending on how bad yours is.
Then use oven cleaner. Let it sit for 30 minutes or so. It will eat the carbon build up.
Rinse. It will probably take a few times to really clean it. Rinsing it out is all you need.
It won't hurt the cooler.
Do not use the oven cleaner on the EGR Valve! Or any other aluminum. It might eat it.

The cooler is stainless steel, the pressure washer won't hurt it. Unless it's like 10 million pounds
of pressure!

I used the oven cleaner the first time I cleaned my cooler. It worked great! The 2nd time,
I used my pressure washer. It did a nice job of cleaning it out. But I used the oven cleaner
just to see. The water was black! I used the oven cleaner 3 times before the water was clearer.
And that was good enough for me!

 

Good to know, appreciate the detail as that job got's me more nervous performing, since I was thinking aluminum fins. Stainless steel then, not so much worrying. Still will take care to watch to prevent corrosion and damage.

Just read about the "soaking the pistons overnight method" to clean up the rings here:


Anyone tried this or similar method and if so, please detail.

Reads like just removed the spark plugs and soaked then cleaned by turning over the motor... at first I assumed completely disassembled with the engine removed and now am wonder if not. Not sure how to turn the motor over without the engine removed though. Maybe can pump or vacuum out to remove the soak solvent and crud?

 

Regarding the EGR Valve, read this also and wondering if anything else in the circuit from the EGR Cooler intake, Air intake and PCV valve to the head has any finicky positions like I just read here to verify when re-assembling:

 

Use a 1/2 inch rachet or breaker bar on the nut for the crank pulley to turn it over.
Don't be too nervous. Just go slow, make any notes along the way, take photos.
Then you can go back and look if you are not sure how something goes. It's a lot easier
than it looks. Tackle one section at a time.

Water is not going to hurt the steel or aluminum parts. Remember, they get wet when it rains.

RayTheEagle mentioned the pressure washer. I didn't use it the first time. But it made it a lot
easier and faster the next time! It was more clogged the 2nd time. But water alone won't get all
the soot off the steel. The oven cleaner will.

 

Wondering about the overnight soaking to clean the piston rings issues with disconnecting the spark plug packs and fuel injector related fuses and just turning the engine over without the spark plugs in? You got me thinking then just rinse and clean the engine bay area up really well afterwards.

Thinking there will be codes that have to be cleared and well documented why those codes were thrown in my log since intentional.

 

I am not sure if an overnight soaking will do anything. I personally have no experience.
I don't think it could hurt though. Depending on how thin the cleaner is, it will take time to
soak through the thin ring gap of the first ring, then the 2nd, then through the oil rings...
It will take a while...

 

Yeah, that stuff worries me in regards to what will do to the head gasket.

Well, the E Torx socket set came in the mail today with the Fel-Pro Intake Manifold Gasket set. Interesting how the circular gasket has a screen in it. I don't recall this on the Toyota design.

Now to determine which brand wratchet 10 & 12mm wrench or metric set to invest in. Was going to order a 10mm Gearwrench alone or a Craftsman for the right price and saw there is a cost effective Husky sets locally from the Homedepot. Any reason for a flex head on the wrench?

 

Flex head is helpful for the lower bracket bolt/stud on the EGR cooler; that's one instance I appreciated it. I was using a long handled 1/2" drive flex head Jet wrench, worked well.