EV Switch ?

I use EV mode many times, briefly, during my short commute. My unusual situation is that my commute is so short (roughly 4 miles) and has so few stops, that the car spends a very short proportion of its total driving time in S4 (full hybrid) mode. The result is that the battery is (or was, before the EV mod) always at too high a charge to allow for excess energy from the ICE to be efficiently stored. Additionally, in winter, with the heater running, the ICE never shuts off.

I can mimic S4 operation when the car is in S3, by using EV mode for several blocks at a time, to draw down the SOC from 6 bars to 5, thus keeping it in a range where there is head room for charging when the ICE is producing more power than needed to push the car.

Once warmed up, and in S3, if the car won't go into S4 (because I have not hit any red lights) I will use the ICE for accelerating from a stop, and then use EV for the steady drive to the next stop (or until the SOC is down to 5 bars.) This is essentially what the car would do itself in S4: use the ICE for accelerating, and golf-cart mode for steady-speed slow driving when the SOC is high. Thus I am going in and out of EV mode a lot.

 

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You use the heater? Doesn't that lower your MPG? :lol:[/b][/quote]
Yep. But my mpg is already so low (from the shortness of my commute) that it hardly matters. Between ND winters and my 4-mile commute, and pre-heating the cab when it's bitterly cold, I probably have the lowest mpg in Priusdom.

And you know what? I don't even care. Because the car is so cool. And besides, even though my mpg is the lowest possible, my total gas consumption and pollution is also the lowest. Fewer miles driven = less total emissions. My total miles driven for the first year looks like it's going to be around 7,000.

 

So has anyone bought and installed the EV Switch from Coastal Tech?

Has anyone had any problems with it? I'm just envisioning it not switching out of EV mode in time to recharge the battery... ugh!...

And what are the thoughts about installing such a mod with regard to the warranty? Does it void the warranty on the electrical? that is... if a Toyota mechanic was to discover it?

Any thoughts and/or experience would be appreciated as i try to decide if i want to attempt this mod.

thanks!

 

Spencer,
The EV mod won't void the warranty as it is doing nothing more than the stock EV button. It uses the same computer code to allow you to force EV only when the computer thinks it is OK.

The issue on EV and warranty problems is linked to the possibility that people might (and some are looking at this) add batteries plus an EV switch then make it a 'plug in at night' electric vehicle with gas backup. The car's computer system isn't set up for that so Toyota took an offensive position.

I like the idea of an OEM button best as you have a specific labeled button. It is too bad Toyota doesn't have an EV mod kit including the button and all the connectors.

OTOH, the eCoastal 'cruise control switch' EV mod is pretty darned cheap at $45 + S&H and apparently fairly simple to install. I am leaning toward putting it on my list for Santa.

Coastal Tech EV link

 

I use the Costal Tech EV switch. There is no problem about draining the battery because the car switches itself out of EV mode when the battery SOC reaches 2 bars OR if the speed reaches about 34 mph or if you step hard on the accelerator, and possibly other conditions as well. It will refuse to go into EV mode if you are travelling over about 34 mph, or accelerating, or the battery is at or below 3 bars.

Note that the Prius sold in Europe and Japan has the EV button from the factory. All the Costal EV switch does is tap into the empty pin that the Japanese & European Prius use. So it's just initiating a computer sequence that's already in the car, but not otherwise available to North American Prius drivers.

The warranty issue is a matter of controversy. Conceivably, Toyota could make it hard for you if you had a warranty repair and they became aware you had modified the car. There is a concensus that the EV switch should not affect your warranty unless a faulty or incorrectly-installed switch actually caused the problem. However, you should be aware before installing it that there have been no test cases. You pays your money and you takes your chances. Don't modify your car in any manner whatsoever if you are not willing to take that chance. I personally consider the risk acceptable, so I installed the switch. But in the worst-case scenario, I could afford to pay for repairs myself.

You can also install the EV switch for next to nothing if you are willing to do a bit more work. See Evan's article in the Knowledge Base.

 

This is from a presentation by Dave Hermance, Executive Engineer, Toyota Tech Center: "The EV modification will void the warranty. That decision has been made."

From a technical viewpoint, we all know selectable EV won't save gas because ALL energy in this car comes from gas only. Careful use can ultimately reduce the number of engine starts (my house and office are 1 mile apart), but this is an incredibly low-stress power train and Hermance agrees that it should last a long, long time.

From a fun viewpoint, EV provides bragging opportunities to first-time passengers, but the novelty quickly wears off.

From a legal viewpoint, the fight will be interesting. Your opponent is the most profitable automobile company in the world, and you will make yourself a pariah whenever your VIN pops up.

 

My experience is that judicious use of the EV switch can indeed save gas. Note that the car itself uses golf-cart mode at times, as part of its overall strategy to conserve gas. The reason this can happen, even though ultimately, gas is the source of all energy in the Prius, is that the ICE is more efficient under certain conditions than under others. Use of golf-cart mode can shift ICE operation from inefficient moments to efficient moments. EV mode is simply forcing golf-cart mode.

There are times when the user knows upcoming driving conditions and can therefore make better choices than the computer can. The battery capacity is not infinite. So, the easiest example is drawing down the battery SOC as much as possible before a long downhill, allowing more of the gravitational energy to be captured on the way down.

In addition, as I have argued before, the stupid requirement of a 10-second stop before the car will go into full hybrid operation means that the car does not enter its most efficient mode as soon as it should; and with a short commute, this can be significant. The EV switch can allow a driver to emmulate S4 operation while still in S3, thus improving efficiency.

Note that all the EV switch does is allow you to tell the car to do something it does normally: occasionally shut off the ICE for more efficient operation. There are certain limited circumstances when you can make a better choice in this regard than the computer can. The keys are understanding when golf-cart mode is advantageous, and using it for brief periods. The car uses golf-cart mode for only brief stretches, and you should use EV mode similarly. Trying to go long distances with it is not an efficient use.

Toyota will have a very hard time denying warranty service for a modification that is identical to a feature they offer on otherwise identical cars in other countries.

That said, the courts are whimsical. Don't make the mod if you cannot accept the risk.

 

I really don't know how Toyota would be able to justify a blanket voiding of the warranty, unless the HV ECU were to go bad. The programming is already there, we are only activating an existing feature, hidden to the NE market. They may also be able to justify voiding emissions compliance warranty work, as you are telling the ECU to alter its performance, even if it was factory programmed to do so. If Toyota really feels using EV switch would be grounds for voiding the warranty, they should be wiping that line of code from their next program update.

In my case, I have another problem, if work needs to be done around the HV ECU. I accidentally broke the release tab on the connector. I can still get the connector off, but it's tricky. I don't know how it broke, I don't believe I was putting undue force on it.

 

They better not be stupid enough to try that! The ev button is one of the key reasons I selected the car instead of a Honda!

Take out the feature and that would be changing the product they sold me. Besides then I would just have to disable the engine via the fuel pump or something to simulate being out of gas and then I would have EV mode back but under my control and not the computer's! This would be indeed be harmful to the battery unless managed just right! Toyta is far more protected letting the computer handle this and able to over ride the driver!

But then the warranty would be OK, because I'd just be like driving the car with a fuse blown till I could get to the store for a new one!

 

I agree with Daniel's points.
Yes, every watt that goes into the battery ultimately comes from gasoline either direct charging via the ICE or pushing the car up a hill.

I have watched my energy flow screen a lot in the last 2.5 months and I know the places the car will go into electic only if it is warm enough, I have gone over 34 and I haven't touched the brakes. The 10 second stop is frequently impossible for me along these stretchs.

When I get home from work (downhill) my battery is always all blue or 1 green if I don't get a 10 second stop after the interstate exit, when the battery is 1 green. If there is NO traffic and I can hold it in EV, I still have at LEAST 5 blue. That means that most of the time, I should be able to drive the last mile on EV. Speed limit is 25 & 30.

The only way to force EV on this part is to be very careful on the road I turn on from the main road. It is downhill at 25, then 30 with a pop back uphill maybe 100 feet long about halfway through. If I get the car to 25 at the top of it, then coast, I can be over 34 MPH at the bottom, then coast/EV up the little hill, dropping to about 25. Since I made it over 34, I can EV as long as I don't touch the brakes. Then I have to coast/regen down to 15 or so before the left turn so I don't touch the brakes, then be REALLY gentle on the accelerator to get back up to 20+. But if someone is behind me, I feel compelled to get up to and maintain speed and can't EV any of it.

The most frustrating is the top of the last 1/4 mile starting at that left turn. I can go into glide on the top 100 yards and actually pick up speed before getting to the steeper downhill where the car gains yet more speed and regens with my foot off the brake.

With the colder temps upon us, I have seen the car charging the battery while stopped at the light 3/4 mile (uphill) from my house in the morning even though it was 1 green. There really isn't any reason I should not use EV at night and drop it to 5 blue since it will charge in the AM no matter what.

I have another stretch coming home from the rink that is 30 MPH, generally flat or slightly downhill. It starts with 2 stop signs 200 feet apart. There is NO WAY I get a 10 second stop so unless I can push over 34 and not hit the brakes, I'm using gas for no reason for about 1.5 miles before hitting the up hill where the ICE will run regardless of battery state.

I really don't know why Toyota decided the NA drivers are too stupid to use an EV button, but everyone else is a genius.

 

Even without an EV button, the Prius is far superior to the HCH. Consider autostop: the HCH will shut off its ICE at a stop, but cannot creep forward without starting the ICE again, and once re-started, it will not shut off again until it has reached a certain speed. The HCH cannot move without running the ICE.

The EV switch is a really cool mod, and eliminates what was, for me, the greatest shortcoming of the Prius. But in the great Prius vs. HCH debate, the EV switch is a relatively minor point.

 

How do we know the Toyota engineer was talking about the EV mod consisting of enabling the switch available already in other vehicles, and not the EV mod consisting of making the car plug-in-at-night and adding more battery capacity?

Besides that, I wonder if one could move the fight into the "court" of Visa/Mastercard's chargeback arbitrations board. ASSUMING you can force a situation where you actually believe you were charged more than you should have been charged... hmm...

Chargeback reason "Not As Described" might apply. If you believe you are being charged the amount that isn't covered under warranty, and later find out that warranty coverage you should have received was unreasonably denied, maybe you can just charge the amount to a Visa/Mastercard, THEN call the dealership and explain why such-and-such amount should have been covered under warranty. You give them an opportunity to refund the amount in dispute (which will probably be like talking to a brick wall: "We've already been over this: your EV button mod voided your warranty.") and then talk to your card issuing bank. Explain the situation, explain your conversation with the dealership, and get them to submit a chargeback.

I don't actually work in our merchant research department so I'm not that familiar with chargeback specifics...but this might work. The outcome would likely be that Visa/Mastercard would rule that the dealership unreasonably charged what should not have been charged, and that they can take you to court if they want to reclaim the lost amount.

Fighting Toyota some other way, they get to keep your car (or your money) while they try to fight it out in court. They are motivated to wait you out because they know it's expensive for you.

Fighting Toyota this way, you get your car and money, and they have to rush a court decision if they want your money back.

Well...I don't know about this. I guess I should say I am a banker but this is not banking advice, and contact your own issuing bank before actually doing any of the above. I'm not confident the above would work, but this kind of dispute is what the arbitrations board is made for. It's definitely not fraud, to do the above -- but you're not guaranteed to win.

Oh well... just idle speculation...

--Michael Spencer

 

I just got done installing the EV switch from Coastal Tech. I hit the start button and immediately pulled the cruise cancel lever for 2 seconds but the ICE started anyway. It was 30F outside and the heater was on, but is that enough to cause the ICE to turn on? Once I got to a safe location, I repeatedly attempted to get her into EV mode. It would start off on battery only but once I got to around 12 mph the ICE would kick in. Was I accelerating too quickly? I was barely applying any pressure to the accelerator at all. How far are you supposed to be able to press the accelerator before it determines that it must use ICE? I was pressing it down like 5%. Just enough to accelerate without the ICE kicking in before I had installed the switch. I felt like it was just doing the same thing it always has. No beeps or anything. I was certain to follow the exact instructions. Perhaps one of the wire taps did not make proper contact? They closed all the way and snapped shut so that seems doubtful. I got the extra pin inserted all the way. I can't tell if it's working. Maybe it's just too cold? I also attempted to engage EV mode when I was going more than 34 mph. Shouldn't it have beeped 3 times?

I get the feeling I didn't install it right, but I know if I dig back in there exactly what I'll see. A system that apparently is installed correctly.

Damn. Oh well, guess it was only $45 ...
Powers.

 

Thanks for the advice, efusco. I really want it to work and will probably give it one more try. But now it's 25 F outside and it's just too darn cold to do the work out there right now. Guess I'll try it again tomorrow perhaps. Wish me luck.

Cheers,
Powers.

 

Also heat demand will 'encourage' the ICE to kick in to warm up, especially if you just turned the car on. That's why many of us shut the HVAC off at stoplights. I don't know if EV mode cancels this the same way it cancels the normal ICE warmup.

 

In EV mode, you can definitely step harder on the accelerator than you can in normal electric mode.

I have the Costal EV switch, and it really seems to me that I have to hold the lever for 3 seconds.

Here's a test: With the MFD NOT on the energy screen, hold the lever for a slow count to 5 (to make absolutely sure you've held it long enough). One of two things should happen: It switches to the energy screen (and you are in EV mode) or you get three beeps, saying it heard your request but has denied it.

If neither of those things happens, your installation is wrong, or the switch is faulty.

 

Powers,
I guarantee you did not install it correctly. I know this from personal experience having installed mine yesterday! Pull the white retaining bar out again and push the pin in ALL the way. I had to do this 3 times before I got it right.

The 1st 2 times I could barely see any shiny metal from the pin. And I mean BARELY, like 1/64". It looked all the way in to me. I was afraid I would break the wire if I tried to shove the edge of the little screwdriver down harder. On the 3rd try, I no longer see any shiny metal and it works.

It took me exactly 1/2 hour from start to first finish - ie, I thought I had it but didn't put the trim back on 'in case'. Another 15 minutes to redo the black wire twice and replace the trim.

I think Dave needs to include someone with small hands and long slender fingers in the package. The harness doesn't come out the lower hole very far. I got the tap on the black and white wire fine since it is on an outside corner but it took about 15 minutes to get that center purple wire tapped. I had a tough time holding the other wires out of the way with one hand, putting the tap in place with the other and closing it with the pliers with the 3rd hand I don't have! ;-)

For anyone else doing this mod: You drop the tap trying to get the purple wire and can't find it. Pull back the floor mat and lift the bottom edge of the plastic trim. You might need to tap the trim once or twice. You'll then find the tap. I did this 3 times!

Also, the big silver piece of vent trim comes out easily if you push up a bit on the bottom before pulling out. The lower small piece just pulls straight out, it will take a little force. I found it easiest to reassemble by putting the top of the silver piece in first, then setting the small lower piece in place and positioning it and the lower part of the silver one at the same time as the big one overlaps the little one just a bit.

And, the instructions from Coastal say to lower the lower glove box. As noted in Evan's instructions, once you have removed the piston (just squeeze the end of the post it is on together a bit and it pulls right off), the entire box can be removed rather than have it laying tilted on the floor. It just snaps on some round plastic pieces on the dash.