Engine Knock even after cleaning EGR pipe cooler

I could not remove mine. Screwdriver started to slip and decided to stop before totally messing the screw heads.

 

Same experience here.

Consensus seems to be that with an impact driver it can be done. That’s a manual tool, you just set it on the screw head and rap with hammer. Each hit impacts and slightly turns it counterclockwise.

 

If you have shop air available, a darned-near-magical approach is Lisle's "62140 seized fastener removal master kit". It doesn't put any twist on the screws at all, creating zero chance that it will twist the heads off or round them out even by accident. The tool does absolutely nothing but lightly bop straight down on the head (as fast as only an air tool can bop), and it has flats so you just gently ease it counterclockwise with a wrench while it bops.

If that sounds dubious or if you've never tried it, boy are you in for a surprise.

I don't work for Lisle or get any cut, but I've worked some miracles I wouldn't have been able to without it.

 

My experience with the impact drive is one "good" hit breaks the bolt/screw loose and they you don't need it again.

 

If you have a vice, hex impact driver and a long phillips #2 it's not an issue

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

What people call an impact "gun" is usually a wrench driver that uses impact to impart really strong torque. Just the ticket for loosening very tight, large nuts and so on. The danger when using it on small seized screws is that the large impact torque may twist the head right off the screw, or the pattern right out of the head.

When you compare it to what a seized-fastener removal tool does, the hand-banged ones are mostly applying a downward bang (though they contain a cam to give a leftward twist at the same time). The air-powered ones like the Lisle are different even from that: they eliminate that cam and they deliver no twist whatsoever. Their only job is to bop straight down on the fastener really fast while you just gently twist to the left with an ordinary wrench. The difference is unmistakable when you experience it.

 

watching this thread closely and nervously while dragging out the job myself

 

Oil in the spark plug area means you have a leaking valve cover gasket.
Enough oil can cause a missfire problem.

 

Glad you were able to clear the CEL code.

Regarding the shakes did you check the state of the damper between the engine and the transaxle apparently there is a plastic cover that can be moved to provide some access to check for damaged springs etc. I am going to check that area regarding the rumble I have during light acceleration. I will also do my PCV valve which I did not do in the last job because Toyota did not have the part when I went to pick it up. As well I will change my transmission fluid.

If that fails next I will watch some Scanner Danner videos to see if he has fixed a rumble like mine but in a different kind of car. The guy seems to be able to fix almost anything using a good scanner tool.

 

I personally think the best parts to get for the head gasket is the head gasket kit from Toyota.
Seems some people are having problems with other brands.

 

I'd recommend the engine water pump.

 

I look forward to hearing how this goes. It looks like a pretty big job. If my rumble gets worse I may have to do the same one day.